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Scotland by tasanhalas - Corel - Scale 1:64 - First wooden build


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Hi, I'm Duarte from Lisbon, Portugal, and this will by my very first build! Just bought the glues (CA and titebond) and I'm now working out a something to hold the model while it's being worked on.. 

This will be a slow, long project, But I bet I'll need a lot of help  as I've never done anything like this before :P
Thanks in advance!

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And for my first question, after opening the box and making shure every big wood piece was present I went throught the instruction and noticed two things:

1) the first step shows the keel with a wood strip around it (Strip) but what piece is this? Can´t seem to find it.. there are several long wood pieces

 

and 2)  tried to fit the frames in place, but they sit several mm above the top of keel, where they shoul be flat. Waht's the best way to correct this?

 

Thanks

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Hi Duarte,

I am presently building the Scotland and can offer help. Although this is also my first build, I have learned  a lot along the way.

The wood strip is one of the square walnut strips. It fits the depth of the false keel .

The bulwarks need to be flush with the top of the false keel. I had to file down the slots deeper to make them fit. If they are too tight to fit you may have to file the sides of the slots. But be careful as they must not be loose. They should be snug.

 

Keep asking questions , post some pictures as you go along so we may see your work and maybe see things that you may miss. Also, check out all the build logs on this site as they will give you great suggestions  that you may run into.

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Now this was a trick part, the instruction are awful, the drawing of the deck doesn't match the deck! it isn´t centered  its off by some mm and the width isn´t equal...  but I did has they said and glued the guides.. surprise surprise when I tried to fit the deck the one in the back didn´t match...
So ended up shaving some of the wood so they fit. And now as you can see the bulkheads are visible from above on both sides, so not a center problem... 

169knl2.jpg

Instructions are badly written and the pieces badly cut.. this does not help

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I would read ahead as you will have to curve the bulkheads towards the bow. I used the shape of the deck as a general guide to get the curve correct. This allowed me to get the bulkhead flush with  the deck

It seemed to work for me.

Edited by sygreen
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Well now this was totally on me and on my rush.. I've been away from the work table for some days and was now beginning to sand the bulkheads to match the deck and noticied this...

t7h2j9.jpg


Tried to unglue the deck but it's no possible... whats the best way work around it? I thought of 3 solutions, please give me your view in this:

1) Just let it be and glue the stern fillers (#17) on their intended position, simply cut the right side smaller, leaving an empty space between the left one and the space the keel should be (which can later be filled with pieces of wood later on if necessary)

 

2) Increase the hole in the deck to match the keel and glue the stern fillers around the keel 

 

3)Glue the left stern filler in place. Alter the right one (sanding it's back) so it too can be placed in it's right position but with the keel now running behind it, and then fill the space like in 1)

 

.. Any help would be appreciated :(... Thanks
 

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The problem you have is the the hole on the deck for the 2 elevated bulkheads is mal-aligned . I guess it is too late to widen the opening as it is all glued. Did you use CA glue or PVA? PVA is water based and can be loosened. I would check the web site for solutions to ungluing the deck.

Remember that the entire deck is now mal-aligned and ungluing is the best solution.

If it will destroy the deck by ungluing, all you can do is widen the opening. The rudder follows the line of the keel so the entire deck will then not be symmetrical  

Maybe someone else has a better solution for this

 

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I used titebond original, so water should have loosened it, but I tried to no avail... both with water + X-acto and even with a paint solvent... maybe soaking it would work but I don´t think it would be very kind to the rest of the structure...

Yeah..

 

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  • 6 months later...

Well this is where I'm at, and I have a question, should I continue and glue one more line of laths between the end of the curvature and lath 12 on the keel? (on the stern and middle sections) this way making it homogeneous and without a rift or leave in like it is?

Thanks

sqjmdd.jpg

Edited by tasanhalas
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  • 10 months later...
  • 2 years later...

Sails!  I like putting sails on mine!

Edited by GrandpaPhil

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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  • The title was changed to Scotland by tasanhalas - Corel - Scale 1:64 - First wooden build

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