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I was wondering if anyone here has any experience using Russian Olive in modelling. A search of MSW showed only one build but for some reason he gave up on the russian olive and switched to apple. It has a fairly porous grain but is hard and is a rich brown that finishes beautifully. I've turned a few pens out of it but I'm not sure of its suitability for shipbuilding. The tree I have in the yard is constantly being cut back and I have a good supply of dried 3-4" branches ready for milling down and there is a good chance that the whole tree will get taken down in the near future. I'll never make that many pens in 10 lifetimes and hate to waste such a wonderful wood.

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It looks open pore, similar to Oak.  The write up = irregular grain.   These are not desirable characteristics for wood that shows. 

A display base.  A case.   Hidden parts.  Jigs.   Tools.  Tool handles.

I would not waste the wood,  but I would NOT use it for planking, frames that show, uncovered deck beams, bits, coaming, etc.   Irregular grain could be a disaster for davits and catheads, top parts, masts and yards.

If you use paint, it is better to use a wood species that does not require a pore filling step in surface prep.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Thanks for the reply Jaager. I hadn't considered the structural aspect of a porous wood. It is a pity though. Be sure I will find a good use for it!

 

I do have a modelling Plan B: a nice big crabapple trunk from the yard that's been drying in the garage since last summer and just needs to be milled into planks.

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Crabapple !   You should find it a joy to work with.   Other than a possibility that  fungus could get to it before it is seasoned, I don't see any down side to using it.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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  • 5 months later...

Just found this thread after being away from the forum all summer. I'm the one who switched the Russian olive (ro) wood out to crab apple. My ro stem started chipping away whenever I bumped it so I switched to a stronger wood. The ro only appears to have pores like oak when first cut but once fine sanded and stained it takes on a smooth and solid chocolate brown. It is strong for beams like decks and even as planking. It just does not hold up to being cut into points.

I'm using it for all of the decks inside of my full build of the Triton. Stay tuned for my posts as I get back into the model after being away all summer playing with rc trucks. I'll try and post some up close pictures of the ro wood once sanded and finished.

Caius, didn't your pen turning come out nice using ro wood?

 

 

Richard

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Let me add to the above description:

If you heat it or outright burn it, it stinks worse than a skunk. You want to aggravate a bothersome neighbor? Throw some ro in your fireplace!

It has two different colors in the younger pieces - a yellowish white outer layer and the chocolate brown inner layer.

The ro around my area has thorns.

The ro in my area has shaggy peeling bark.

I will agree that it has distinctive tree rings but the rings are wide. For the small pieces we use in models an entire part can be cut from a single ring so that you only have one shade that shows.

 

 

Richard

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We have a lot of RO here in north Idaho.Not much good for anything but cover for birds and wildlife in the coulee bottoms and riverbanks. Too coarse in my opinion for model work. Bill

Bill, in Idaho

Completed Mamoli Halifax and Billings Viking ship in 2015

Next  Model Shipways Syren

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