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Unanswered Constitution Question

Plastic knots drilling holes

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14 replies to this topic

#1
NewBuilder

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I started my Revel 1/96 Constitution when my youngest was 4. It was slow going and I used to joke that I'll have it done in time to give it to her as a wedding present. I eventually just put it away as it was a little overwhelming. Well she's 23, and while she doesn't have a serious boyfriend, I'd like to fulfill my committment when the time comes. So it's unpacked and I'm sitting here and I'm stuck exactly where I was before. Except now there's the Internet. :-)

So in brief, I can't figure out how to get the string through the tiny cannon door holes. Do you just drill very carefully? Use a hot needle? Something else? I'm sure there's some technique. Any ideas are gladly accepted!

Thanks!

#2
keelhauled

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I built this model in college with rigging it from scratch. Can you post a photo of what you are asking about.  


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#3
NewBuilder

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Here's the section of the instructions that explains it better than I can. Let me know if a photo of the model piece will also help. Thanks!

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#4
russ

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I would use a small drill bit to drill out the hole in the gunport cover. Then, use some CA (super glue) to harden the very end of the thread so that it is very rigid. You can even use a hobby knife to cut along the edge of that hardened end to get the very end of it to a point. Then pass that pointed end through the hole in the gunport cover. Tie a simple overhand knot in the other end of the thread so that when you pull the thread through the hole, the knot acts as a stopper to hold the cover open.

 

Russ


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#5
jbshan

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I think inside they want you to take the ends of two adjacent lines and tie them together.  You could simply put a knot on the inside end of each one individually.


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#6
keelhauled

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Use an index twist drill and drill from the outside of the hull so that you don't get a burr with the plastic.  Take the ends of the line and touch CA (super) glue to the tips so that it is stiff and thread it through.  As Joel said, you can just knot on the inside of each one individually.

 

good luck,

Marc


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#7
shiloh

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When threading a sewing needle for sewing leather I was taught to lay the end of the thread out on a surface, one hand holding the thread and the other using the cutting edge of a sharp knife, held perpendicular to the thread, to scrape the last  2 inches into a tapered point. Might try that before using the glue to stiffen the thread at the point.

jud


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#8
russ

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Jud:

Stiffening the thread with glue before cutting the point will make it easier to cut the thread to a point. You need that stiff end to the thread to be able to cut the pointed end.

 

Russ


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#9
keelhauled

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I'm with Russ.  That stiffness makes life Much easier!


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#10
shiloh

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Looks like I need to expand my above post to make it clear, that I was not suggesting tapering the thread instead of using the glue, my intent was to add that step before gluing the whole taper.. The taper might make life easier when threading very small holes or perhaps small blocks.

jud



#11
russ

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Jud:

I understood your idea, but I was saying that adding the glue to the thread before tapering makes it easier to do the taper. :)

 

Russ


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#12
NewBuilder

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Thanks for all of the sage advice! I'll let the group know how it goes.
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#13
Billl

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Smaller dia. Thread works also.
Years ago, thread came in only a few dia.'s. Today one has a multitude of sizes and colors.

Edited by Billl, 28 October 2015 - 08:21 PM.

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Current Build:

La Nina, Latina - Wood / 1:65

 

On The Shelf:

San Francisco II, Latina - Wood 1/90,     U.S.S. Constitution, Revell - Plastic  / 1:96 (Remake),     H.M.S. Bounty, Latina - Wood / 1:48,     H.M.S. /Mayflower, Latina - Wood / 1:64,     La Pinta, Latina, Latina - Wood / 1:65,     La Santa Maria, Latina - Wood / 1:65,

 

Completed:

San Francisco / Cross Section, Latina - Wood / 1:50,     Coastal Submarine, Revell - Plastic / 1:144,     Cutty Sark Wall Plaque, Revell - Plastic / 1:50,     H.M.S. Victory, Revell - Plastic / 1:146,

H.M.S. Bounty, Constructo - Wood / 1:50,     Oseberg, Billings Boats - Wood / 1:25,     Clipper Ship (Sea Witch), Unknown - Wood / 1:46,     U.S.S. Constitution, Revell - Plastic / 1:96,    

Man Of War, Scientific - Wood / 1:50,     Robert E. Lee, Scientific - Wood / 1:45,     PT-109, Revell - Plastic / 1:72,     U.S.S. Enterprise, Revell - Plastic / 1:720,    

R.M.S. Titanic, Revell - Plastic / 1:720,     Numerous other wooded tall ships and boats from companies named: Ideal, Dumas, Pyro.


#14
PeteGee

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I don't know if you have an answer for this yet, but the way I tied the gun port doors was to use a very small drill bit to carefully drill the hole in the door. If you are careful, there will be no burring or breakage. Then, to get the thread through the tiny opening, I use a needle threader that I bought from JoAnne Fabric (or Hobby Lobby). These small threaders also come with some sewing kits. Once the gun port doors are firmly glued in place (with CA), you can thread the small diameter line through the hole. Drill the hole before gluing the doors in place. BTW—the needle threader is a very good tool for use in other areas where line needs to be drawn through small openings.

 

Best of luck with your build.

 

PeeGee 


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#15
PeteGee

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The continuing 'saga' of my "Connie" build...Why is it that the lessons you need to learn are discovered only after one is 3/2 through the challenge : - ) I am starting to develop the channels and deadeyes at this point, and my question (of many later on) is: When cementing the channels and irons to the hull, does one use little bits of CA or is TenXr7 better.? Secondly: I have not noticed on any o the build logs I've seen where extra support has been done for the channels themselves. Has anyone done this? Any suggestions? i do need to say that the build log references I been studying are marvelous. Great work, guys and thanks for sharing.

 

 

Pete


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