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hello

I have a few questions before I buy a table saw

1 . can i cut strips from sheets by Proxxon (fet)

2 . do i need to buy only mini saw for that work or maybe can i buy real table saw like bosch , makita , dewalt ect.

 

i can't buy the byrnes table saw because I'm from israel and i tried lot of time to send email to hem but never received answer....

 

anyway in my country i can Choose between proxxon the fet model or to buy "real" table saw

i mean the big one...

 

By the way the price of the proxxon its expensive i can bay 

 

kind regards 

Michael.

Edited by michael101

"smooth seas do not make good sailors..."

:pirate41:

MY FIRS BUILD : H.M.S BOUNTY (mamoli)

SECOND BUILD :The concord stagecoach 1:12 youtube link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJzCs9umWPI 

CURRENTLY BUILD : H.M.S VICTORY (Caldercraft) : http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15501-hms-victory-by-michael101-caldercraft-scale-172/

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The Proxxon is also marketed here in the States by Micro Mark as the Microlux saw. I have had mine for 20 odd years now, and still going strong. With a carbide blade I have cut 3 1/2" thick cherry many times. Saw on one side, flip it over, saw again. My saw has gone through this with no problems. Just feed slowly. With jeweler's blades I have cut strips from thin sheets.The trick is set up and feed rates. What is the thickest wood you plan on sawing?

  Ron W.

Ron W.

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hey Ron thank you for your comment 

about the thickest i don't know but i need something to serve our hobby :)

 

about the proxxon is it made of plastic? (the base)

"smooth seas do not make good sailors..."

:pirate41:

MY FIRS BUILD : H.M.S BOUNTY (mamoli)

SECOND BUILD :The concord stagecoach 1:12 youtube link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJzCs9umWPI 

CURRENTLY BUILD : H.M.S VICTORY (Caldercraft) : http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15501-hms-victory-by-michael101-caldercraft-scale-172/

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Michael101,

 

I have a full size table saw, a 10" Delta Unisaw.  I have tried using a veneer saw blade with the highest tooth count I can find, but it is still very oversized for our hobby.  Thin strips are difficult to cut, due to the diameter and thickness of the blade.  The larger kerf of the cut is also wasteful, given the cost of the materials we use.  Keep in mind that my saw is one of the most precise and vibration-free saws available, and most "contractor-types", like those sold in the home centers here in the States, would be even more of a problem.

 

I bought my saw for full size work (custom furniture), and love it for that.  In my opinion, it is not the saw to use for our hobby. 

 

-John

-John

 

Member:  Ship Model Society of New Jersey

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HI Mike, good comments above.  I use a Delta contractor saw which runs a 10" blade for all my rough work.  By rough I mean cutting frame stock from 3/4" and thicker stock.  Most of my framing stock is 3/16" or 1/4" thick.  You could just buy sheet stock that is already sized to these thicknesses.  

 

When I need to cut thin stock, either from thin sheet stock from suppliers, or from thin stock that I cut, then I switch the blade to an 8" veneer blade or an 8" hollow ground combination blade.  I also use a no clearance blade insert so the small parts stay on top of the machine.  I also use sleds of various combinations (see other posts in this forum}.    

 

If your budget only allows for one machine, then go with a full sized machine.  You could just buy thin stock, and then cut with a Proxxon or similar.  These smaller saws are ideal for the many small items we make for our models. 

 

I did make a small TS which runs a 3" blade so I can saw strips to .025.  I cannot use this small saw for any wood thicker than 1/8" so having both is ideal for my needs,  BTW, my budget does not allow me to buy the Byrnes saw which is why I made my own. 

 

Good luck with your decision.  Hope this helps.               Duff in Middletown, CT

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I own a 10" table saw and a Preac modeler's saw (precursor to the Byrne's saw). I use the Preac a thousand times more frequently than I use the 10" saw. The 10" saw is useful for cutting strips from large stock such as a 6" wide board that is 3/4" thick. The Preac wouldn't cut that at all. But if I want to take a 3/16" thick piece of basswood sheet that is 3" wide and make 1/8" strips from it, the Preac is the saw of choice. Last night, for example, I needed some strips that were 2mm wide by 1mm thick, each of which had to be 30mm long. Easy on the Preac - impossible on the 10" saw. I use slitting saw blades on the Preac, by the way.  So, I'd go for the Proxxon over a large saw any day - it will be far more useful than a large saw.

 

Cheers -

John

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Michael

 

I saw we got an email from you this morning which has already been answered.  If we missed any others I apologize for that,  we get quite a few of them and a few fall through the cracks from time to time.  If you're interested in our saw and need a shipping quote email me a list of your wants with your complete shipping address and I'll get you as soon as I am back in the shop on the 29th.  Send it to jdm@cfl.rr.com

 

regards

Jim Byrnes

Model Machines

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thank you all!!!

Jim i send you email back thank you!

 

Michael.

"smooth seas do not make good sailors..."

:pirate41:

MY FIRS BUILD : H.M.S BOUNTY (mamoli)

SECOND BUILD :The concord stagecoach 1:12 youtube link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJzCs9umWPI 

CURRENTLY BUILD : H.M.S VICTORY (Caldercraft) : http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15501-hms-victory-by-michael101-caldercraft-scale-172/

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A full size table saw can be used for very fine cuts.  As stated above the kerf is large so waste can be high but if you are cutting something fairly common the waste is worth it for the ease of cutting.  Use a hollow ground planer blade in the saw and tune it up before attempting any cutting.  It is surprising how out of alinement a saw can be without it being obvious.  A couple of accessories you will need is an insert for the area around the blade with the smallest possible gap (make one out of thin plywood without a hole and cut the hole with the blade you are going to use by raising the blade as it is running) and a good fence.  A trick I learned was to attach a thin piece of wood between the fence and the wood being cut.  End the insert just beyond the location of the arbor.  Line up the fence with the blade very carefully and you are all set.  You can get good, smooth cuts down to about .03" (~.75mm) with practice.  Depending on the wood you use you might do even better.

Edited by grsjax

My advice and comments are always worth what you paid for them.

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thank you all !!! 

tomorrow i will get quote from Jim i hope the price of the shipping is not going to be expensive because in Israel we paying 18 precent tax for import 

 

i hope to to write you tomorrow that I'm buying the byrnes table saw but if not i will go on the proxxon thank you for all your comments

Michael.

"smooth seas do not make good sailors..."

:pirate41:

MY FIRS BUILD : H.M.S BOUNTY (mamoli)

SECOND BUILD :The concord stagecoach 1:12 youtube link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJzCs9umWPI 

CURRENTLY BUILD : H.M.S VICTORY (Caldercraft) : http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15501-hms-victory-by-michael101-caldercraft-scale-172/

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Nice upgrade Tad; any problems with dust collecting in the box as I don't see any vacuum ports?

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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