Jump to content

Welcome to Model Ship World
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!
Photo

Tool for Shaping Brass Strip


  • Please log in to reply
44 replies to this topic

#1
mikiek

mikiek
  • Members
  • 1,057 posts
  • LocationS.E.Texas

This is just my sheer ignorance in the metal work world. I was bending some 1/16" brass strip into a U shape, or more accurately a 3 sided square. In this application each side was about 1/8". I was using a needlenose plier and a small hammer to try to get decent 90 degree bends. The result was fair but could have been better.

 

So what I am wondering is if there are some type of shaping forms that I can use to hammer brass strips on. Some square rods, circular, and maybe even triangular - probably a set with various sizes. I have plenty of brass rods & tubes but I doubt beating brass on brass is going to work.

 

I'm sure there is something out there but I don't know what to look for. Let me know how you guys do it.


  • mtaylor, Martin W, thibaultron and 3 others like this

Sail on......

 

  Mike

 

"Dropped a part? Your foot will always find it before your eyes do"

 

Current Builds:

        US Brig Niagara - Model Shipways - First Build

        Section Deck Between Gun Bays - Panart

 


#2
mtaylor

mtaylor

    Bilge Rat

  • SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOR
  • 14,241 posts
  • LocationMedford, OR

Mike,

Anneal the brass first.  Heat to red hot and let cool.  It'll soften it and make it easier to bend.   As for forms.. check around places like Amazon for small anvils. For a cheaper method, check around Home Depot and Lowe's in the hardware department.  They sell steel stock that might be usable.


  • edmay, cristikc, Janos and 10 others like this

Mark

"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me


Current Build:

Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0

Past Builds:
Triton Cross-Section
USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War (Gallery) Build Log
Wasa (Gallery)


Member of the Nautical Research Guild


#3
Landlocked123

Landlocked123
  • Members
  • 375 posts
  • LocationThe Nutmeg State
Mike,

I strongly suggest you invest in a pair of quality parallel grip pliers with straight (not tapered) sides. For the brass work below, I annealed the brass as Mark suggested, scored the strip where I wanted the bend, inserted into the plier at 90* to the side, bent, and gave it a small tap with a hammer.

I seem to recall that you can find the pliers for about $20. I use them constantly when working with metal.

Best,
John

image.jpg

image.jpg
  • allanyed, riverboat, mtaylor and 16 others like this
Member:
Connecticut Marine Model Society
Nautical Research Guild

#4
vaddoc

vaddoc
  • Members
  • 250 posts
  • LocationCambridge, UK

How do you keep the brass shiny? doesn't it get discoloured with heating?


  • tasmanian, thibaultron and Ray1981 like this

#5
Landlocked123

Landlocked123
  • Members
  • 375 posts
  • LocationThe Nutmeg State
I just give it a light going over with the steel brush wheel I'm my Dremel

Best,
John
  • mtaylor, tasmanian, thibaultron and 5 others like this
Member:
Connecticut Marine Model Society
Nautical Research Guild

#6
mikiek

mikiek
  • Members
  • 1,057 posts
  • LocationS.E.Texas

Sounds like just the ticket John.  Beautiful metalwork!  Thanks for sharing.

 

The other thing that has caught my eye is something they call a forming bezel. They come in various shapes - round, square, triangle.

 

I've found both the pliers and the bezels on Amazon.


  • mtaylor, avsjerome2003, Bill Hime and 4 others like this

Sail on......

 

  Mike

 

"Dropped a part? Your foot will always find it before your eyes do"

 

Current Builds:

        US Brig Niagara - Model Shipways - First Build

        Section Deck Between Gun Bays - Panart

 


#7
rtropp

rtropp
  • Members
  • 960 posts
  • LocationAtlanta

If pieces need to be "re-hardened" how would it be done.  I'm thinking of pieces that need to be bent, but then need to hold some weight or pressure.

 

Richard


  • Bruce Evans and thibaultron like this

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       


#8
J T Lombard

J T Lombard
  • Members
  • 77 posts
  • LocationGardnerville, NV.

John

Could you post a picture of the pliers you use in your metal work?

 

regards

 

J


  • Mirabell61 and thibaultron like this

#9
jbshan

jbshan
  • Members
  • 1,139 posts
  • LocationWest Coast of NH

If pieces need to be "re-hardened" how would it be done.  I'm thinking of pieces that need to be bent, but then need to hold some weight or pressure.

 

Richard

I discovered that the only method open to the non-commercial metal worker was to work-harden the brass.

 

http://uvsmgshipmode...opper Tempering


  • mtaylor, GLakie, Canute and 1 other like this

#10
mtaylor

mtaylor

    Bilge Rat

  • SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOR
  • 14,241 posts
  • LocationMedford, OR

Joel,

Quenching in oil or water wouldn't re-harden the brass?   I'm just curious as I've not done any metalsmithing to speak of.


  • thibaultron, GLakie and Canute like this

Mark

"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me


Current Build:

Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0

Past Builds:
Triton Cross-Section
USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War (Gallery) Build Log
Wasa (Gallery)


Member of the Nautical Research Guild


#11
jbshan

jbshan
  • Members
  • 1,139 posts
  • LocationWest Coast of NH

Joel,

Quenching in oil or water wouldn't re-harden the brass?   I'm just curious as I've not done any metalsmithing to speak of.

No.  It's a long and complicated process.  You can even quench the hot metal and it will stay soft and workable.  Google it if you like.


  • mtaylor, Bill Hime, thibaultron and 3 others like this

#12
Landlocked123

Landlocked123
  • Members
  • 375 posts
  • LocationThe Nutmeg State
Joel, Mark, et al,

Scroll down in this forum and you will see a thread called re-hardening brass. The basic answer is: one can't.

I'm having a bit of a hard time imagining when you would need to do it. Under almost all circumstances where I'm worried about strength, I'm sure to silver solder my bands, eye-bolts, or whatever. There's a small learning curve but I now find it easier than soft soldering.

Best,
John

Joel,

Here's the pic.s and links

image.jpg

http://www.micromark...jaws,11523.html

Edited by Landlocked123, 30 December 2015 - 11:27 PM.

  • allanyed, mtaylor, dgbot and 13 others like this
Member:
Connecticut Marine Model Society
Nautical Research Guild

#13
J T Lombard

J T Lombard
  • Members
  • 77 posts
  • LocationGardnerville, NV.

John

 

Thanks for picture & link

 

J


  • mtaylor, thibaultron, GLakie and 1 other like this

#14
mikiek

mikiek
  • Members
  • 1,057 posts
  • LocationS.E.Texas

Hey John - you mentioned scoring the pieces at the bend. What do you use for that?

 

Mark - I'm working on some metal work for the mast. Took your advice and heated up the strips first. WOW! What a difference. The strip is amazingly pliable now.


  • mtaylor, Bill Hime, thibaultron and 2 others like this

Sail on......

 

  Mike

 

"Dropped a part? Your foot will always find it before your eyes do"

 

Current Builds:

        US Brig Niagara - Model Shipways - First Build

        Section Deck Between Gun Bays - Panart

 


#15
Landlocked123

Landlocked123
  • Members
  • 375 posts
  • LocationThe Nutmeg State
Hi Mike,

It's not really a score as much as a scratch to mark the location and angle of the bends. I use a Starrett pocket scriber, but an X-acto knife would work as well as.

Best,
John

Edited by Landlocked123, 05 January 2016 - 11:48 PM.

  • thibaultron and Canute like this
Member:
Connecticut Marine Model Society
Nautical Research Guild

#16
allanyed

allanyed

    Special Contributor

  • SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOR
  • 1,131 posts
  • LocationAve Maria, Florida

John,

 

Very nice metal work indeed.  What vessel and scale?

 

Thanks

 

Allan


  • BANYAN, thibaultron and Canute like this

Current Builds Litchfield (50) 1730, Effie M. Morrissey  

I can explain it to you but I can't comprehend it for you - Ed Koch, former NYC mayor

 


#17
tkay11

tkay11
  • Members
  • 1,136 posts
  • LocationKentish Town, London, UK

There was a discussion about the characteristics of copper, bronze and brass in 2013. See http://modelshipworl...hem/#entry50895. Wefalck in particular made some good points.

 

Tony


  • mtaylor, Martin W, thibaultron and 2 others like this

===
First build: Caldercraft HM Cutter Sherbourne 1763 FINISHED

2nd and current build: Triton cross-section


#18
lionfish

lionfish
  • Members
  • 139 posts

also be aware that brass hardens the more you work it, so it might be necessary to anneal every now and them. http://www.bnamodelw...hoto-etch-tools

these tools are designed for photoetch, but i dont see why they wouldnt work on similar sized brass parts. 


  • mtaylor, druxey, thibaultron and 2 others like this

#19
reklein

reklein
  • Members
  • 545 posts
  • LocationLewiston Idaho

Check out Ken Forans book on building in brass. Everything you need to know about brass. Schiffer books. No financial connection just a good book.  Bill


  • mtaylor, CaptainSteve, AntonyUK and 5 others like this

Bill, in Idaho

Completed Mamoli Halifax and Billings Viking ship in 2015

Next  Model Shipways Syren


#20
GLakie

GLakie

    Chief Cook & Bottle Washer

  • Gone, but not forgotten
  • 3,207 posts
  • LocationDearborn, MI--USA

I second that! Own the book myself, and found it to be a good investment. Bill's right!  :)


  • mtaylor, CaptainSteve, thibaultron and 1 other like this
GEORGE

Posted Image

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

Member of the Nautical Research Guild




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

Welcome GUEST to the Model Ship World Community.
Please LOGIN or REGISTER to use all of our feautures.