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HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale


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Cathead,  I'm not sure where my model railroading interest went the last few of years . . . it seems to have resurfaced as an interest in ships!

 

Bob,  Yes, space always seems to be at a premium doesn't it?

 

Erik

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Cheerful is looking great, Erik.  As well as the build boards.   You know there's a saying about "mother nature abhors a vacuum".  She also hates unoccupied space in the work area.    :D  :D  :D

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I need some advice.  I started fairing the hull.  I'm curious what grit sand paper people are using for the initial fairing.  The plywood bulkheads are much harder wood than the longboat bulkheads.  So, I know this will take a while.  My sanding blocks don't really seem to be working, so I'm using 7 inch 120 grit emory boards.  They are flexible, so seem to handle the shape of the hull well, other than the bow area . . . which also needs a lot more material removed. 

 

So, my questions are what grit sand paper do you start fairing the hull with?  And, what type of sanding block/device are you using for this?

 

Thanks,

Erik

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Eric,

 

I used "extra coarse" 80 grit, flexible fingernail files from a beauty supply house.  Then after "close" went to 100 grit files and then 180 grit files.  They're flexible and when they wear out, I toss them.   I'm getting them for something like $.50 per file as my Admiral is a "member"... one doesn't have to be a professional to be a member.

 

I've also used sticky back sand paper from the DIY place with the same grits but applied to 1/16" plastic sheets.  The sheets are flexible and I've had them for years.   I don't remember where I got them.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Mark, Chuck, Thanks!  While I'm in no particular hurry, starting the fairing with 120 & 220 grit sanding sticks/blocks like I did seemed like an exercise in futility!  :)

 

Erik

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This may be a bad idea, but I've used a sharp knife before to initiate fairing in places where there's a lot of material to be taken off, like near the bow where it's a sharp angle. Using either burn marks or my own pencil line as a guide, I scrape the knife blade along to gently peel off the first wedge of material. With a steady hand it doesn't go too deep, and it saves a lot of initial sanding.

 

The other thing I like about this method is, I find it easier to get about the right initial angle with the knife than working down a sharp corner with sandpaper. There's less stress on the frame, and once the angle is roughly established, the sandpaper already flows across a somewhat smooth surface rather than grinding over a resisting sharp edge. But it's also riskier since you can take off to much with a slip of the hand. Just the two cents of a young amateur. Maybe try it on scrap wood first to see if you can control the knife to your satisfaction?

 

Finally, I found an adjustable stand really helpful. My hand is steadiest at certain angles, and such a stand meant I could position the model in whatever orientation let me hold my hand at its ideal orientation for cutting. I wouldn't want to try it with my wrist at an awkward angle to a static  model.

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I did the first rough fairing of one half of the Cheerful hull.  There are a couple spots that need more work.  I'll touch those up when I do the final fairing after framing the gun ports.  It was quite an undertaking compared to fairing the much smaller longboat.  Sanding the 5-ply plywood that constitutes the bulkheads makes for some slow sanding!  After initial material removal with a 60 grit sanding block, I did wind up mainly using the 7" long flexible nail files that are 120 grit.  I also made a sanding block out of a 1" dowel with 150 grit sandpaper glued to it to sand the concave rear part of the hull.  The two curved sanding blocks I made I didn't wind up using.  The flexible nail files did a better job.  Now . . . on to the other side . . . :)

 

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Erik

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Mike,

 

Thanks!  I did hold the batten strip down in several areas.  The run is smooth, and it lays flat on all the bulkheads.  I'm waiting to tack it down until I do the other side.  I know I need to remove a little more material at the bow.  I'll wait to tweak the bow area when I have both sides faired.  That way I can make sure both sides are symmetrical.  I'm a little paranoid about removing too much material, so I'll really go over everything meticulously after the gun ports are framed, and I do that final fairing.

 

Erik

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Erik, that is an extremely clean and nice start.

With the new house I don't even have an office up and running, even less so is the workshop now seperated from the living area. With other words, some dust may accumilate. But I know what to go with as for dust collector.

I miss my modelling. So right now I have to enjoy others build logs.

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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I finished the first rough fairing on the port side.  I've done a whole lot of sanding over the last week!!  There are spots I need to touch up, particularly at the bow, but I'll wait to address those until I do the fairing after I frame the gun ports.

 

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post-20029-0-06009400-1453678491_thumb.jpg

 

Erik

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A couple of quick grab shots.  I tested the smoothness of my fairing job by temporarily fastening a batten strip at various positions on the hull.  It's smooth!

 

post-20029-0-84511600-1453696244_thumb.jpg

 

post-20029-0-39084300-1453696250_thumb.jpg

 

Erik

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Neat work, Erik - and such a clean, tidy work area.  This and Druxey's new log make me yearn for something small.

 

Ed

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Only one thing.....

.

Edited by Nirvana

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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I am jealous!

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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Ed,

 

I think my lack of clutter can be attributed to a my tool collection being on the light side.  It seems that every step of the way, I need to purchase something in order to complete the step!  One of the things I like about the Cheerful is I'm able to get started with a minimum of tools, particularly expensive power tools, and acquire things as money allows . . . and it clarifies in my mind how involved I want to get into the hobby.

 

Per,

 

Once you get moved in and set up again, you'll be ready to start on your next project!

 

Eirk

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Great work, Im very jealous of the time you seem to have to devote to it.   You work very quickly and consistently...  Im envious.   Out of curiosity, and strictly because Im worried I might have gotten my terms mixed up.   Is this a scratch build or a kit?    To my understanding it seems a kit build, but as you say that your not using any power tools Im confused as well it seems everything was supplied.  Is that wrong?

Scratch means to manufacture your pieces fully from blank wood stock, correct?  Or no?     

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This particular build is hard to define.  I'd call it a scratch-kit . . . Or maybe an ala-carte kit . . . Or scratch-build light.  :)  Chuck offers the laser cut keel, false keel, and bulkheads, and offers others parts as mini kits.  The modeler can buy all, some, or none.  The buyer then sources the timber themselves.  In this case, I bought a timbering package from Crown Timberyard.  So, in a way, as I'm building it, it's a kit . . . but with me buying the components individually from different sources.  I would say, realistically that both the terms kit-built, and scratch-built are both on a continuum from one end of the spectrum to the other.  I think specifically these Cheerful builds are in the scratch-built section of this forum because that's where Chuck's initial scratch build of the Cheerful started, and other's early on had cut the keel, false keel, and bulkheads themselves.  For me, it doesn't really matter what I call it, it's just an enjoyable build, and seems to me anyway, like a good transition between a full kit (everything in one box), and a true scratch build.

 

Erik

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Oh!  And regarding hobby time and progress on the ship.  I was divorced a few years ago, don't have kids, . . . and it's winter here in Colorado . . . so to avoid going crazy, I need to be working on something daily.  I can foresee slowing down as the days get longer and the temperature warmer though.  :)

 

Erik

Edited by Erik W
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Kit or scratch?  Who knows?   I might call it a hybrid build, but regardless of what term used you are off to a great start.  Tools?  Well, once you catch the bug, and I suspect you're already "infected",  you will always want more of them.  Erik, there is no cure!  ;-)

 

Tom

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Oh!  And regarding hobby time and progress on the ship.  I was divorced a few years ago, don't have kids, . . . and it's winter here in Colorado . . . so to avoid going crazy, I need to be working on something daily.  I can foresee slowing down as the days get longer and the temperature warmer though.  :)

 

Erik

 

Yeah...   the no kids thing Im sure helps a lot!  haha.   I have a toddler at home...   if she spots me go anywhere near my modelling stuff, she wants to "I help, Poppa!"   Then we spend 2 hours putting clamps on eachother's shirt.    

 

Thanks for the answer on the scratch/kit deal.   I was just curious if you were planning to fabricate some or all, or what was happening.   The Cheerful looks like a great project and so versatile in the way you can pick and choose the components the way you can.   Kudos to Chuck for setting it up that way. 

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Maturin, enjoy clamping shirts (I just love that story) now. One day she will grow up & not want to spend her time with you & you'll miss it. My "little girl" used to be daddy's girl, always by my side. She became a teenager & almost forgot daddy.

 

Jesse

 Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways

 

Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic)

On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood)

 

Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350  (plastic),   Andromede - Dikar (wood),   Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood),   Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic),   Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'),   4 small scratch builds (wood),   Vietnamese fishing boat (wood)   & a Ship in a bottle

 

 

 

 

 

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I'm heading out of town for a week, but managed to get the gun port sills installed.  When I installed bulkhead "B" (the one where the mast will go)  I had noticed the bulkhead was warped a bit on the port side.  You can see in the photo I added a balsa block between bulkhead "B" and bulkhead "D" in front of it (the second gun port sill from the front).  This made it possible for the gun port sill to be the same length as the one on the starboard side.  Also, the spacing between the bulkheads is now the same on both sides.

 

post-20029-0-72163800-1454041586_thumb.jpg

 

Erik

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Nice work Erik, She's starting to take shape 

 

Best Regards,

Pete

"may your sails be full of wind and the sun on your back"
 
Current Builds :

 

 

 

 

 Future Builds :
 

N.G Herreshoff 12 1/2 Scratch Build 3/4" = 1' - 0" Scale

 

Completed Builds :

 

Volvo 65 Farr Yacht Design

Herreshoff Alerion

Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14

Volvo Open 70

 

 Member : 

 

The Herreshoff Registry                                  Montgomery Sailboat Owners Group       Peter Kunst Sailboat Models 
http://www.herreshoffregistry.org/                       http://www.msog.org/                      http://www.facebook.com/Peter-Kunst-Sailboat-Models-1524464774524480/ 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm back in town, and back to work on the Cheerful.  in the last couple of days I framed the gun ports.  They still need to be faired.  This proved to be a bit of a chore since each port has different sized lumber framing it.  I used 1/4" square boxwood strip and cut/sanded it to shape.  My fingers need a rest!

 

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Erik

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Erik,

Amazing and beautiful build, I have no words to express.

But Tom had an interesting word, hybrid build.

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

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