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CA glue and application


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22 replies to this topic

#1
Wally

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Just getting back into plastic model building and I have been reading that a number of you are using super glue. Wondering what brand / type you are using and how you are applying it? Didn't know if you were placing the glue on a pin or something to apply it to the piece. Building the Revell USS Constitution 1:96
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#2
John Allen

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Wally,

 

A lot of people have made their own applicators, pins fastened into wood, eyes of a needle that have been snipped.

 

I found for my purpose toothpicks, if you need a minuscule spot of glue you can shave to a tiny point. There cheap use once or twice and discard.

 

There other folks who have done this longer than I who probably can give better tips.

 

If you use the toothpicks treehuggers may be out to get you. :angry:

 

John


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John Allen

 

 

Current build Mamoli HMS Victory

Armed Launch-Panart

Diligence English Revenue Cutter-Marine  Model Co. 

On deck Maori (Waca) war canoe

and Double hull Polynesian canoe (Holakea)


#3
donrobinson

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When using ca I typically use the medium when I need a tiny bit I will use a pin in the end of a dowel as John mentioned. After awhile when the build up of glue gets to be too much on the end of the pin a quick pass through a bic lighter burns it off nicely. You can also buy applicator tips that fit on the bottle that work real good too.The thin ca I use only for repairing cracks or weak spots, and I rarely use the thick ca.

 Hope this helps


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#4
usedtosail

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I use medium and thin CA and for an applicator I use a piece of wire. I used different thicknesses of wire depending on how much glue is needed. When the tip gets too built up with old glue, I snip it off and have a fresh end to use. Eventually the wire gets too small so I cut another piece.


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- Tom -
 

Current Build: Model Shipways Constitution

Next in Line: Billings Half Moon or Dumas 1938 Cris Craft

Completed: MS Bounty LaunchHMS Beagle - highly bashed Mamoli kit using Anatomy of Ship book,

Santisima Trinidad Cross Section, Dapper Tom, Sultana, Phantom

 

Member: Nautical Research Guild 
 


#5
jdbondy

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My technique for getting tiny amounts of thin CA glue where I want it is to use a pair of tweezers to accept a tiny drop between the two metal tips. I can then blot one of the two tips on a paper towel, then when I close the tweezers again the residual drop spreads between the two tips again. I can keep repeating the process to further reduce the size of the drop. 

 

After a while of doing this, the tweezer tips have to be cleaned of the dried residual CA. I need to try the suggestion of the bic lighter!


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JD

 

Current build: Pride of Baltimore 2

 

Previous builds:  Amati HMS Endeavour, Midwest Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack, Bluejacket America, Midwest Sharpie Schooner

 

 


#6
Wally

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Thanks for all the helpful ideas!


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#7
ken3335

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Hi, Instead of the usual applicator I use a hyperdermic needle inserted into the glue bottle. Medium CA flows smoothly through its fine apeture giving a very small amount at the its tip. When you get a build up of glue at the tip run a small flame over it, CA is very flammable and it quickly burns off leaving a clear tip. Unlike a plastic tip this will last for years without the need for replacing, also it has a long fine reach


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#8
Sunsanvil

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http://www.creatived...lue-looper.html



#9
Kurt Van Dahm

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I use the Glue Looper - great product.  The Glue Looper people (husband and wife - the whole company) will be at my local IPMS club meeting this Friday night.

Kurt


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Kurt Van Dahm

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Midwest Model Shipwrights
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#10
daddyrabbit1954

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Just about the only time I use CA with plastic models is when attaching photo etch parts to plastic. I just never got good results attaching plastic to plastic with super glue. Not that it won't adhere, but it usually creates more problems than it helps for me. That being said, a good friend told me about using the blue bottle of Gorilla Glue for attaching photo etch parts and it works very well for me. It's just the right consistency and I use a pin to apply it in very small amounts. The Gorilla Glue (make sure it's the blue bottle) gives a little time before it sets and allows you the time to make adjustments in case you don't get it in the correct position right from the get-go. It's a medium viscosity glue.

I have also used super glue to fill small cracks and seams. I use an accelerator in that particular application.


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#11
hornet

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I use the squadron precision CA glue applicator. It works well, particularly when fitting copper plates.

Link below

Cheers
Steve

http://www.squadron....r-p/sq10204.htm
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Hornet

 

Current Build: - Caldercraft - HMAV Bounty

 

Completed Ship Builds:

                                     Caldercraft - HM Brig Supply (In Gallery)

                                     Aeropiccola - Golden Hind

                                                        - Constitution

                                     Clipper Seawitch (maker unknown - too long ago to remember!)

                                     Corel - Victory

                                     Modeller's Shipyard - A Schooner of Port Jackson - In Gallery

                                                                      - Brig `Perseverance' - In Gallery

                                                                      - Cutter `Mermaid'- In Gallery

                                                                      - Sirius Longboat (bashed) - In Gallery

                                                                      - Sloop Norfolk - In Gallery

                                      Completed Cannon:   - French 18th Century Naval Cannon

                                                                      - Napoleonic 12 pound field piece

                                                                      - English 18th Century Carronade

                                       On the shelf awaiting construction: - Caldercraft  - HM Bark Endeavour 


#12
Modeler12

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There are some great ideas here. 

But I keep coming back to round toothpicks. Note: round toothpicks, not the cheaper version.

They work well for me with epoxy, ca glue and PVA (carpenters glue).

application 1.jpg   application 2.jpg

If the little glob at the end is still too much, smear it on some scrap until there is enough for what you need.

 


Edited by Modeler12, 03 September 2016 - 02:04 AM.

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Jay

 

Current build Cross Section USS Constitution  http://modelshipworl...s-constitution/

Finished USS Constitution:  http://modelshipworl...n-by-modeler12/

 

'A picture is worth a  . . . . .'      More is better . . . .


#13
Ulises Victoria

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I may be too late to this topic but why in the world would you use CA to glue plastic to plastic? The special cement used in plastic modeling is especially designed for the job. It doesn't "glue" or joins the two parts together, but melts the plastic creating a very strong bond.


Edited by Ulises Victoria, 05 September 2016 - 12:00 AM.

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Ulises

 

If you want something you've never had, 

you have to do something you've never done.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Current Project Build Log: French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 
Last finished projectRoyal Ship Vasa 1628 

 

Future projects already in my stash:  Panart: San Felipe 1/75  (most likely my next project);

                                                         Artesanía Latina: HMS Surprise 1/48;

                                                         OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90.

 

My Wish List: Soleil Royale. Sovereign of the Seas. Amati 1/64 Victory (if it ever comes out :) )


#14
Robin Lous

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I like the CA-ndle from Flexifile, but I also make my own from stretched kit sprue.

 

glueapplicator_zps3g9nb4wm.jpg

 

Stretch above a candle and bent a small loop on the end.


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WIP Dusek 1:72 Greek Bireme http://modelshipworl...ld/#entry432615

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 Louie da fly: "I think it requires a special kind of insanity to choose a galley to build a model of."


#15
Steve 12345

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I use zap a gap and metal dental pick maybe someone can suggest a cheaper glue ,I use zap a gap as I've seen others use it and it's never let me down there is cheaper alternatives however I'm frightened to try them
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#16
Robin Lous

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I prefer the Zap ca glues also...all of them.

For thin ca it doesn't make much difference between brands perhaps, but whatever I try...I keep returning to Zap.


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WIP Dusek 1:72 Greek Bireme http://modelshipworl...ld/#entry432615

signature01_zpslyvgt3sz.png

 Louie da fly: "I think it requires a special kind of insanity to choose a galley to build a model of."


#17
Canute

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I've been pretty happy with Loctite gels. I store them in a jar with a silica gel pack in the bottom; keeps moisture away. Don't know if Loctite is sold in Europe. Sorry.


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Ken

 

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild


#18
Robin Lous

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Don't know if Loctite is sold in Europe. Sorry.

It is  :)


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WIP Dusek 1:72 Greek Bireme http://modelshipworl...ld/#entry432615

signature01_zpslyvgt3sz.png

 Louie da fly: "I think it requires a special kind of insanity to choose a galley to build a model of."


#19
Modeler12

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I use zap a gap and metal dental pick maybe someone can suggest a cheaper glue ,I use zap a gap as I've seen others use it and it's never let me down there is cheaper alternatives however I'm frightened to try them

 

For the amount of glue we use, cost should not be a factor. I have containers 'dry up' before they go empty.

I also like the stuff that comes in green bottles, have tried others, but keep coming back to what works good for me.


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Jay

 

Current build Cross Section USS Constitution  http://modelshipworl...s-constitution/

Finished USS Constitution:  http://modelshipworl...n-by-modeler12/

 

'A picture is worth a  . . . . .'      More is better . . . .


#20
marktiedens

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I have been using what`s called "super gold" CA. It doesn`t have any of those irritating fumes - in fact it is odorless. It takes a little longer to set,but that is usually ok. The only drawback is it`s quite a bit more expensive than regular CA. I don`t mind paying the extra,though,to not have those irritating fumes.

 

Mark


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current build - Royal William - Euromodel

 

finished - Vasa - Sergal

HMS Victory - Caldercraft

San Felipe - Panart

Wappen Von Hamburg - Corel

Sovereign of the Seas - Sergal

and a few others





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