Jump to content

Welcome to Model Ship World
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!
Photo

A Lorch Micro-Mill that never was ...


  • Please log in to reply
90 replies to this topic

#41
WackoWolf

WackoWolf
  • Members
  • 2,732 posts
  • LocationRhode Island

Excellent.


Wacko
Joe :D

Go MSW :) :)

#42
Nirvana

Nirvana
  • Members
  • 1,817 posts
  • LocationConnell, WA

Blown away!

On the other hand it is a rather windy day day too......... :D


  • WackoWolf and Jack12477 like this

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per

 

Ship modeling is a long lesson in patience - Me

It's better to get something done later than never

 

Denial is futile, MSW is here to stay.

 

 Therapy for Shipaholics

 

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden

Current: America by Constructo, Harley almost a Harvey , 18th Century Longboat, Solö Ruff

National Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry


#43
wefalck

wefalck
  • Members
  • 759 posts
  • LocationParis, France

Hope you landed safely  ;)

 

***********************************

 

A while ago I had been able to purchase at a good price a 'left-handed' Lorch, Schmidt & Co. cross-slide, which is what was needed for this project. In Germany, watchmakers for some reason traditionally worked with the headstock to the right, and not to the left as is common practice in virtually all other lathes. Some older watchmakers still seem to work like this, but I gather the majority nowadays, prefer to have the headstock to the righ. In consequence, cross-slides that are meant to be mounted to the left of the headstock and operated mainly with the left hand are relatively cheap to come by.

 

MF-02.jpg

Actuall a right-handed cross-slide but the used was in similar condition (forgot to take a ‘before’ picture)

 

The one I received looked a bit worn on the outside, but mechanically was still in a good condition. Spindles and spindle-nut were tight. However, the nickel plating was chipped and peeling off. I completely diassembled the cross-slide and ground-off the remaining nickel with fine wet-and-dry paper and polished the surfaces. Then all parts were thoroughly cleaned.

 

MF-74.jpg

Cross-slide taken apart

 

The spindles have the 0.75 mm pitch commonly found on cross-slides for D-bed lathes. Not very convenient for calculations, but I got actually used to it on my D-bed lathe. The dial on the y-axis (the future z-axis of the mill) was actually graduated with 15 divisions, giving the diameter reduction when turning, though it has the same pitch as the x-axis. On the mill this graduation would be confusing and I also wanted to have a conical dial on the z-axis. So I moved the x-axis dial to the y-axis, which is the future x-axis of the mill, and made a new dial for the future z-axis.

 

MF-77.jpg

Taper-turning for the new cross-slide dial

 

For this, a 20 mm piece of brass was drilled and reamed for the 4 mm-spindle. It was then taken onto a 4 mm-arbor for further machining. The lathe top-slide was off-set by 45° for turning the conical shape. In the same set-up the lines on the dial were engraved using a pointed tool-bit - the lathe head-stock, as for all watchmakers lathes, can be used for simple dividing. There are 60 stop-holes, which was convenient for the 15 stops needed here.

 

MF-79.jpg

 

MF-80.jpg

Engraving the cross-slide dial on the lathe

 

The engraved dial was then moved to a special jig I made some years ago, that allows to punch numbers onto conical dials. After punching, the dial was moved back to the arbor, the exact position had been marked before removal, and the burrs thrown up by the engraving and punching were removed by a light cut, leaving behind crisp lines and numbers.

 

MF-81.jpg

Set-up for stamping the numbers onto the dial

 

MF-83.jpg

Cleaning up the engraved dial

 

 

To be continued ....


  • cog, mtaylor, WackoWolf and 16 others like this

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg

#44
druxey

druxey
  • Members
  • 4,763 posts
  • LocationNiagara on the Lake, Ontario, Canada

Sweet!


  • mtaylor, WackoWolf, michael mott and 1 other like this

#45
WackoWolf

WackoWolf
  • Members
  • 2,732 posts
  • LocationRhode Island

Outstanding craftsmanship


  • mtaylor and tasmanian like this
Wacko
Joe :D

Go MSW :) :)

#46
wefalck

wefalck
  • Members
  • 759 posts
  • LocationParis, France

Thanks again, gentlemen :)

 

***********************************

 

As for the other dial fabricated earlier, a pressure pad provides for an adjustable friction stop. The outside rim was also given a treatment with the concave knurling tool described earlier.

 

MF-84.jpg

 

MF-85.jpg

 

Knurling the rim of the dial

 

The engravings on all dials were filled-in with black paint and when the paint was dry, the dials were slightly rubbed-over with fine wet-and-dry paper to leave crisp black engravings on a satin surface. 

 

MF-86.jpg

The finished dial at its place

 

Finally, the cleaned cross-slide was re-assembled with the new dial.

 

MF-89.jpg

Re-assembled cross-slide

 

 

To be continued ....


Edited by wefalck, 01 October 2016 - 02:02 PM.

  • cog, mtaylor, WackoWolf and 11 others like this

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg

#47
BANYAN

BANYAN
  • SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOR
  • 1,944 posts
  • LocationMelbourne, Victoria

Stunning workmanship as usual; and it will make a very useful addition to your tool set.

 

cheers

 

Pat


  • mtaylor, WackoWolf and druxey like this

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch) - underway

Next builds:    HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin 1:350)

Built:                Battle Station (Scratch)

                         HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (1:64)


#48
wefalck

wefalck
  • Members
  • 759 posts
  • LocationParis, France

Trying to keep up standards ;)

 

****************************************

 

Some time ago I purchased a 12V motor from a Chinese source that is supposed to run at a nominal speed of 3000 rpm. Considering is length of 71 mm and a diameter of 51 mm with an 8 mm drive shaft I expect it to have sufficient torque for the purpose. The data given by the seller were rather cryptic. The mounting of the motor caused me some head-scratching. The original intention was to use a bracket similar to the one used on the lathe toolpost-grinder shown below as the mock-up.

 

MF-14.jpg

Self-contained drive unit as used on the toolpost-grinder

 

This would have resulted in a self-contained drive unit. However, the motor would have fouled the cross-slide, when the y-slide is fully run out. Making the bracket longer would have solved this problem, but I was afraid of the vibrations this long lever might transmit and the distortions to the y-slide. Another possibility would have been to mount it upside-down over top of the y-slide, but this would have raised the centre of gravity of the whole machine considerably and transmitted vibrations to the system. In the end I make, for the time being, a simple bracket that uses the two screws with which the extension of the y-slide is screwed down.

 

MF-95.jpg

Motor mount

 

The lathe and grinding spindles were meant to run at maximum speeds of around 4000 to 5000 rpm. Therefore, a slight stepping-up compared to the motor speed would be permissible. As the motor bracket does not provide for any adjustment of the belt-tension, I copied the pulley on the grinding spindle for use as a motor pulley as exactly as possible. It will be put upside-down onto the motor, so that the belt can be shifted for stepping up (1 : 1.4) or stepping down (1 : 0.7) speeds without the need for adjusting the tension. Most of the speed control will come from the electronics in the power-supply.

The pulley on the grinding spindle has a 75° V-groove for 3 mm round belts. A V-groove can be cut by either setting over the top-slide, or using a pointed tool with the appropriate angle. I had to grind a HSS-toolbit with this angle, checking it against a template. The two grooves were cut using a stepping method. Cutting it full depth would not be possible. I order to ensure concentricity between the pulley-bore and the groove, first the step in which the set-screw is located was turned and then the piece turned around for drilling/reaming the bore and cutting the grooves in the same set-up. For cutting the grooves the pulley was supported with a revolving tailstock centre.

 

MF-90.jpg

 

MF-91.jpg

 

MF-92.jpg

Steps in machining the motor pulley

 

MF-93.jpg

The finished moto pulley

 

MF-94.jpg

The two drive pulleys

 

To be continued ...


Edited by wefalck, 09 October 2016 - 06:20 PM.

  • cog, mtaylor, davyboy and 12 others like this

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg

#49
wefalck

wefalck
  • Members
  • 759 posts
  • LocationParis, France

With only a few days between the many business-related travels, progresss is very slow ... :(

 

With most of the machining done, I turned my attention to the finish. I would have preferred to leave the parts in their bright, nickel-plated finish. However, the plating on the foot, for instance, was coming off in large flakes. In addition, the parts fabricated from aluminium have a rather different colour. I wanted to have a unified look. Therefore, I spray-painted most parts in my favourite bottle-green (RAL 6007).

MF-96.jpg

Masked

 

MF-97.jpg

Primed

 

MF-98.jpg

Painted

 

To be continued ...


  • cog, mtaylor, davyboy and 10 others like this

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg

#50
aviaamator

aviaamator
  • Members
  • 337 posts
  • LocationRussia, Petrozavodsk.

I'd like to see the finished version!


  • mtaylor, WackoWolf and donrobinson like this

#51
wefalck

wefalck
  • Members
  • 759 posts
  • LocationParis, France

Coming ....

 

**************

 

The milling spindle was disassembled and given a thorough clean and generously oiled before being put together again. I also replaced the slotted worm screws that lock the pulley in place with Allen ones. Not original, but easier to operate.

 

MF-102.jpg

Disassembled milling spindle

 

These milling spindles are intended to be operated horizontally and, therefore, have only a simple oiling hole with no cover. In order to ensure adequate oil supply to the upper bearing surface, I fabricated an oilder that rises to the level of the upper bearing. A piece of 4 mm brass was turned down for a press-fit into the oiling hole.

 

MF-99.jpg

 

MF-100.jpg

 

MF-101.jpg

Steps in manufacturing an oiler

 

An 1 mm-hole was drilled part-way from this side and a 3 mm-hole from the opposite side. The resulting tube was cut at a 45° angle and the two pieces silver-soldered together to form a 90° knee. From a short piece of brass a cap was turned and bored for a sliding-fit over the oiler. Since the convex knurling worked so well, I applied this also to the cap.

 

MF-103.jpg

The finished oiler

 

MF-108.jpg

Re-assembled milling spindle with new oiler

 

To be continued ...


  • cog, mtaylor, WackoWolf and 10 others like this

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg

#52
druxey

druxey
  • Members
  • 4,763 posts
  • LocationNiagara on the Lake, Ontario, Canada

Excellent! I like the oiler you've incorporated.


  • wefalck, mtaylor and donrobinson like this

#53
wefalck

wefalck
  • Members
  • 759 posts
  • LocationParis, France

Thanks !

 

***********

 

The milling spindle was missing the draw-tube. A new one was turned from a piece of 8 mm tube with a 5 mm bore. One end was tapped 5.1 mm x 36 tpi for the collets, for which I am lucky to have a tap. The other end was serrated to provide a positive lock for the hand-wheel. For this machining operation, a pointed tool was mounted with the cutting face vertical in the QCTP and the draw-tube indexed in the head-stock of the lathe.

 

MF-104.jpg

 

MF-105.jpg

Serrating the draw-tube on the lathe

 

The original hand-wheels were made from black or dark-brown Bakelite, a materials that is not easy to buy anymore these days as round stock or thick enough plates. I had to resort to a piece of black POM. As it turned out to be too complicated to set up the radius-turning tool for this, the torus-shaped rim was fashioned by free-hand turning. The POM is rather soft and was best finished with a fine file and steel-wool. The finished hand-wheel was loosly taken into a 3-jaw chuck and the draw-tube, that was held in a collet in the lever-tailstock was pressed in.

 

MF-107.jpg

Turning the hand-wheel from POM

 

MF-109.jpg

 

MF-110.jpg

Finished draw-tube and an original one

 

 

To be continued ...


  • cog, mtaylor, WackoWolf and 9 others like this

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg

#54
Cap'n'Bob

Cap'n'Bob
  • Members
  • 3,543 posts
  • LocationPrescott, Arizona

 The other end was serrated to provide a positive lock for the hand-wheel. For this machining operation, a pointed tool was mounted with the cutting face vertical in the QCTP and the draw-tube indexed in the head-stock of the lathe.

 

Why didn't you use a straight knurling tool?

 

Bob


  • mtaylor, WackoWolf and donrobinson like this

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  Two Edwardian launches

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II

 

In the Gallary:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray


#55
wefalck

wefalck
  • Members
  • 759 posts
  • LocationParis, France

Good point: 1. because I wanted really sharp, 'cutting' serrations to positively lock the draw-tube into the knob, 2. this method is less straining on the lathe, though the cutting is quite tough on the nut of the top-slide.


  • cog, mtaylor, WackoWolf and 4 others like this

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg

#56
BANYAN

BANYAN
  • SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOR
  • 1,944 posts
  • LocationMelbourne, Victoria

Very nice machining Wefalck; these  micro machines you create are miniature work of art in their own right!

 

cheers

 

Pat


  • mtaylor and WackoWolf like this

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch) - underway

Next builds:    HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin 1:350)

Built:                Battle Station (Scratch)

                         HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (1:64)


#57
michael mott

michael mott
  • Members
  • 3,570 posts
  • LocationLake Wabumun, Alberta, Canada

Lovely work on the restoration Wefalck.

 

Michael


  • mtaylor likes this

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8

 

                                Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8

 

                               Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

 

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500

 

                         Maria, Sloop 1:2

 

Restoration      A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.


#58
wefalck

wefalck
  • Members
  • 759 posts
  • LocationParis, France

Thanks, gentlemen !

 

The last three weeks I was barely home for two or three days in a row, just too much business travels - good for the business, but not so good for the private life, including hobbies. I still managed to squeeze-in a couple of hours in the workshop. This is needed from time to time to relax ;)

 

**************************

As indicated at the beginning, the machine will be provided with a fifth axis for rotary milling and dividing operations. Some years ago, I fashioned a geared dividing head from an old Lorch, Schmidt & Co. grinding spindle. This mounts onto the cross-slide of a 6 mm lathe, such as the one used in the milling machine.

 

TK-12.JPG

Geared dividing head constructed some years ago

 

These grinding spindles were meant to be bolted down onto the cross-slide using the latern for the turning bits. While this reduced the number of bits and pieces to be provided for the lathe and to be taken care of, it seems to be a rather strange economy. In the present circumstances this method of bolting is also not very satisfactory, as the angle of the spindle, as well its position in the T-slot have to be adjusted at the same time. Too many degrees of freedom.

 

MF-111.jpg

Elements of the holding-down bolt

 

Therefore, a mounting bolt was fashioned from a normal M6 screw with a hexagonal head. These fit perfectly into the T-slots, but their heads have to turned thinner. Over the bolt a sleeve with an internal M6 thread screws down, thus keeping the bolt in place.

 

MF-112.jpg

Geared dividing head in place

 

Now, the dividing head can be rotated around the bolt without movement up and down in the T-slot. The dividing head is clamped with an standard M6 cap-nut (a nice polished stainless steel one though) and a large washer. The latter also is a commercial stamped product that was cleaned up on the lathe and given a nice polish for aesthetics sake.

 

MF-113.jpg

Geared dividing head in place

 

To be continued ...


  • cog, mtaylor, WackoWolf and 7 others like this

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg

#59
aviaamator

aviaamator
  • Members
  • 337 posts
  • LocationRussia, Petrozavodsk.

Great job!!!


  • mtaylor and WackoWolf like this

#60
mtaylor

mtaylor

    Bilge Rat

  • SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOR
  • 14,216 posts
  • LocationMedford, OR

This mill is one of those machines that comes under the heading of "art".  Beautiful, functional, working art.   


Edited by mtaylor, 01 December 2016 - 08:23 PM.

  • cog, WackoWolf and michael mott like this

Mark

"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me


Current Build:

Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0

Past Builds:
Triton Cross-Section
USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War (Gallery) Build Log
Wasa (Gallery)


Member of the Nautical Research Guild





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

Welcome GUEST to the Model Ship World Community.
Please LOGIN or REGISTER to use all of our feautures.