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HMS Triton Cross Section by alde


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21 replies to this topic

#1
alde

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I feel like I am jumping in the deep end with this one but since I got the new Byrnes saw I wanted a special project to learn how to use it and my Sherline mill. I used the mill to cut the rabbit and it came out pretty good if I must say so myself. 

 

It will be slow going for a while because I am still working the schooner and don't want to set it aside completely.

 

I will have plenty of questions and welcome any help offered.

 

 

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#2
Pete38

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Welcome aboard, very nice start to your build, looking forward to more... :)


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Triton Cross Section 1:32

 

SEE YA LATER

 

im-outta-here-bye-bye-smiley-emoticon.gi

 


#3
mtaylor

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You're off to a good start, Al.  Looking good.


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Mark

"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me


Current Build:

Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0

Past Builds:
Triton Cross-Section
USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War (Gallery) Build Log
Wasa (Gallery)


Member of the Nautical Research Guild


#4
alde

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Thanks for looking in and the kind words. This will be a fun build and it sure makes a nice looking model from what I see from you guys and other builders. I have been studying yours and other builds and learning a lot.
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#5
RedDawg

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Your rabbit looks really good. After I did mine I wasn't to happy with the outcome. But being as all my pine for practice are free,doing it again is no problem. Plus when I cut my pieces I cut about three foot pieces.
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#6
alde

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RedDawg, I kinda cheated on the rabbit. I used my Sherline mill. Once it was set up it took about 2 minutes.
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#7
rtropp

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Al, I am curious.  How long did it take to set up and, do you have any pictures of the set up?

 

Thanks

Richard


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Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       


#8
alde

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Richard, I didn't take any pictures but I just used the Sherline vise with a strip of wood under the keel section to get the keel edge above the top of the vise and level. Then it was just a matter of getting the point of the bit lined up with the center of the rabbit and cranked down to the correct depth. Then I just ran the mill as fast as it would go and ran it down the length of the keel section. I then just flipped it over using the same settings and ran the length on the other side. It came out perfect on the first try. I used a 2 flute pointed mill bit. I don't know the angle of the flutes but I had it and it looked right. This is the first time I used the mill to make a real part so I am far from an expert. ;)


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#9
WackoWolf

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Good for you, now your enjoying the hobby, take your time, it will become more enjoyment as time goes on. Keep the picture and post coming, we love pictures LOL.


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Wacko
Joe :D

Go MSW :) :)

#10
alde

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Thanks Joe, I will try to get more pictures posted in the next few days. I might work on getting a frame glued up first. I still have 3 frame sets to cut out too. As much as I have been enjoying kits this is a bit more fun for me. I enjoy figuring out how to make parts from the plans.


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#11
alde

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I have a question about gluing up the frames. My terminology might not be correct so please bear with me.

When I glue up the first layer how do I get enough pressure on the butt joints to get a solid joint? I guess they can be clamped to the building board and pushed together. Does this make sense?
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#12
alde

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Per request to keep the pictures coming here we go. I decided to make the False Keel from ebony as shown on the material list. I think it gives a nice contrast. It's my first and only glue joint on this project so far. There is also a shot of my frame parts and a dry fit frame part on the keel. The keel is made from Boxwood and the frame timbers are Swiss Pear. 

 

I can't wait to get a frame glued up. Maybe in the next few days. :)

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#13
mtaylor

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Here's what I did and used basically the same method on my Licorne.

 

I have 2 pieces of 1/4" thick glass that are 12 X 12.  Lay one down and edge glue the first layer of frames.   Do be sure to tape the frame assembly to the underside of the glass or lay it on top and cover with plastic wrap so the frame doesn't stick to it.  I put glue on the edges, let it get tacky and then stick them together and put the other glass piece on top.  About 30 minutes later, add another futtock.  

 

Once the first layer is done, add the second layer (let the glue get tacky first) and then put the glass on and let it cure out.

 

I'm sure others have different methods but that worked for me.  I think one of the builders did the treenails as they were building but for that, you'd start with the keel pieces and work your way up.


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Mark

"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me


Current Build:

Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0

Past Builds:
Triton Cross-Section
USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War (Gallery) Build Log
Wasa (Gallery)


Member of the Nautical Research Guild


#14
alde

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Mark, that sounds like a great way to keep everything nice and flat. I like it and will give it a shot. I really appreciate it.
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#15
mtaylor

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Al,

I know there's other ways of doing it, but that's the one that's working for me.  You might have to look through the logs, possibly the very first ones that were re-posts after the crash (EweK's and Scottucus) and some of the others like Rusty's, zLed', Rafine's and others and see how they did it.


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Mark

"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me


Current Build:

Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0

Past Builds:
Triton Cross-Section
USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War (Gallery) Build Log
Wasa (Gallery)


Member of the Nautical Research Guild


#16
alde

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Mark, I have been doing that and maybe I am just over thinking it. I tend to do that. In the past it would keep me from doing things but I'm getting over that and just doing it more often. Thanks again for your help.
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#17
yamsterman

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hi al

nice job on that rabbet!

looks like your cracking on with frame production.

from your photos it looks like you have left more than enough to fair the frames.......I pretty much went to just outside the lines for the plan components and had no issues with fairing the hull...inside or out.

 

I like marks method for the frame construction.....guaranteed to be flat with 1/4" glass on top.....I used a similar method.....drawingunderneath on a flat surface (mdf in my case) frame components glued up and weighed down with 1" square steel bar.

 

looking forward to the frames going up!

 

cheers....mick


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#18
alde

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Thanks for looking in Mick. I just have 3 sets of frame timbers to cut out and then they will start to go together. I was planning on stopping at a glass shop to order a couple of pieces of tempered glass. It really does sound like a great way to keep everything flat and even pressure for the glue joints.


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#19
WackoWolf

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You can also get the glass from discarded freg's (not sure how to spell it) the glass shelf's are perfect for it.


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Wacko
Joe :D

Go MSW :) :)

#20
mtaylor

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Al,

 

Don't feel bad.  I tend to overthink too much also.  :)  :)    Here's to us "over thinkers".  :cheers:

 

On the glass... I think I spent like $15 total on the two pieces.   


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Mark

"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me


Current Build:

Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0

Past Builds:
Triton Cross-Section
USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War (Gallery) Build Log
Wasa (Gallery)


Member of the Nautical Research Guild





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