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I have been given a partially built model of the Danmark (from the Billing kit). The hull has been painted, bowspirit and deck items added. The white hull has seriously yellowed. I think that I have read that the Krylon spray paint would be a good white to use. However, should I put down some barrier coat (e.g. clear acrylic) before repainting the white? Would the Kyrlon be a good paint to use to prevent future yellowing?

 

TIA

 

- Grant

 

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  • 1 month later...

Hello Les here. Sorry for the late responce. I feel your pain. I have tried Humbrol white and it started to yellow quickly. Water born paints such as Tamiya, Vallejo and Testors stay white for a very long time. One thing to consider, if you display your model in a sunlit room UV rays will damage even the highest quality paint. Rattle cans tend to lay down lots of paint at a shot so over application is an important consideration. My best advise is to purchase an airbrush and compressor and practice, practice, practice. Once proficient you will never hand brush paint again. If you scuff it up with some 400 grit sandpaper  then spray a light coat of primer over the affected areas to block bleed through this will give you a good base for repainting. Good luck let me know how it goes.

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I built the Danmark by Billings and what a magnificent model. Oil based paints tend to yellow much quicker than water based paints. I actually used a slightly thinned down white semi gloss house paint, which has chemicals in it to help from yellowing. I built this model about 15 years ago and sold it a few years ago to a west india shipping company based in Fort Lauderdale Florida and the white was a bright a white as the day I painted it. But it also helps to have it in a display case.

 

If I were you, I would if possible put some paint stripper on the hull and take off the paint and start over, if not possible I would at the very least sand down as much of the paint as you can, put on a nice primer and then a coat of paint. I loved building the Danmark, what a fittings package it had and a real beauty. One of the few models that I regret selling, because it was a show stopper. I bought some 24kt gold leaf and covered quite a few parts with the gold leaf. I was my first time using gold leaf and was quite an experience that was well worth the effort.

 

 

 

 

mike 

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Les -

 

I have 3 airbrushes: one single action Paasche and two double actions (Paasche and Iwata). The problem that I have found with airbrushing large objects like this is that they don't fit my spray booth. Even with airbrushing, you can never completely get around using a hairy stick. Plus brushes are easier to clean.

 

Mike -

 

I wiped the hull down with alcohol and then did a light sanding. I then "primed" the whole hull with Future. I used Krylon white out of the rattle can. That stuff can be used for outdoor applications and has a good reputation for not yellowing.

 

All -

 

Billing kits are very nice but the instructions are somewhat spartan. There also seems to be a shortage of build logs out there for this kit. I used Google images to get pictures but they mostly are of models. I am gradually getting more information about such details as rat lines or rat boards.

 

Thanks everyone for the information. I know that I will be back with more questions.

 

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I built the Danmark by Billings and what a magnificent model. Oil based paints tend to yellow much quicker than water based paints. I actually used a slightly thinned down white semi gloss house paint, which has chemicals in it to help from yellowing. I built this model about 15 years ago and sold it a few years ago to a west india shipping company based in Fort Lauderdale Florida and the white was a bright a white as the day I painted it. But it also helps to have it in a display case.

 

If I were you, I would if possible put some paint stripper on the hull and take off the paint and start over, if not possible I would at the very least sand down as much of the paint as you can, put on a nice primer and then a coat of paint. I loved building the Danmark, what a fittings package it had and a real beauty. One of the few models that I regret selling, because it was a show stopper. I bought some 24kt gold leaf and covered quite a few parts with the gold leaf. I was my first time using gold leaf and was quite an experience that was well worth the effort.

 

 

 

 

mike 

Wow, I wish I could see some pictures of your finished Danmark. Beautiful model indeed.

 

To the OP:

I tend to agree, the most effective thing would be to remove the old paint if possible without damaging the model. Painting over old paint often doesn't end well.

Edited by daddyrabbit1954
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Absolutely first class, paint job about the best I have ever seen, I have several air brush guns from 20 yrs. ago gathering dust believe I need to pull them out, I am going to remember the gold leaf it makes it really pop. Kudos on my scale of 1 to 10 about a 15. :)

John Allen

 

Current builds HMS Victory-Mamoli

On deck

USS Tecumseh, CSS Hunley scratch build, Double hull Polynesian canoe (Holakea) scratch build

 

Finished

Waka Taua Maori War Canoe, Armed Launch-Panart, Diligence English Revenue Cutter-Marine  Model Co. 


 

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Hello Grant. Les here. Nice pics. I am fortunate that I have the space so I could build a large spray booth vented to the outside. I am currently building the 1/72 scale RCN Flower Class Corvette Snowberry. I built a larger than normal lit spray booth to accomodate this model. On very large jobs I use my Paasche double action with the #5 tip for this purpose. By the way I still hand brush some smaller items when I don't want to fire up and clean an airbrush. Carry on.

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