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Anyone own a Woodcraft spindle sander?


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I got an email that the Woodcraft spindle sander is on sale.  Is it any good?  There have been a few times where a spindle sander would have been really handy on my builds.  Of course I'd prefer buying one from Jim Byrnes if he decides to make one...

 

Here is the link to the item and sale price:

 

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/157889/woodriver-benchtop-spindle-sander.aspx

 

 

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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I've looked at it and it's ok for what it is.  But if your budget can bear it and you have the space, i think you should consider this tool instead. It can do what the Woodcraft machine does, and significantly more.  A reasonable  price is about $200-235, and you might find a secondhand one (e.g. on Craigslist) for less:

 

https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/oscillating-edge-belt-spindle-sander

Edited by Bob Blarney
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The unit on sale looks to me to be the same Asian generic that Harbor Freight sells.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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The Rigid machine has a spacious top that can be fitted with jigs and fixtures for precision sanding.  The dust collection can be improved by making a sheetmetal  or PVC shield around/behind the spindle or belt.  The machine is not heavy and so it can be moved and stored without much effort.  The bottom of the machine is formed so that it can be set up on sawhorses or bolted to a bench. And a good source for the abrasives is Klingspor.com

Edited by Bob Blarney
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woodcraft has 2 more diameter  1/2 and 3 inches

Not so:

 

The Rigid machine has 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1-1/2, & 2 inch sizes for the spindle sanding capabilities.  The larger (left) end of the beltsanding device provides for the 3 inch capability.  Here you can see the sheetmetal dust shield/director that I added.  One end is held by a winged thumbscrew {1/4-20 thread} placed into the hole provided for the standard material stop, and the other end is attached to the back of the table with a self-tapping sheetmetal screw driven into a hole drilled through the edge of the aluminum top.

 

Really, in my opinion, this machine provides the most optimal performance:price:service ratio  of any sanding machine that a hobbyist or small shop owner could find or desire. 

 

post-15622-0-88280300-1469465755.jpg

Edited by Bob Blarney
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Bob,

How are the drums mounted to the motor shaft?

More to the point: what is the bare shaft like? 

Is it a 1/2" steel rod or a proprietary setup?

If it is proprietary, how is that attached to the actual motor shaft?

Edited by Jaager

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Gaetan, i tested the link above to the Rigid website, and it worked perfectly, but I'll post it agains below.

 

For spindle sanding, the belt sander is removed and placed in a storage socket on the rear of the machine.  This exposes the 1/2" steel shaftm and yes, a 1/2" abrasive sleeve is mounted directly on the steel shaft w/o a rubber drum.  For 3/4-2" sanding, there are rubber drums provided that mount on the steel shaft.  There are also corresponding rings that fit into the table for each size of sleeve.   No tools are needed for changeovers; only if you overtighten the knob then a tool will be needed.

 

Here is a link to the tool's page on the Rigid website, where you can find links to the comprehensive owners manual and parts list.

 

https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/oscillating-edge-belt-spindle-sander

Edited by Bob Blarney
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Bob you tried it, you must know how it works. It is just that information does not correspond.

Sanding Drums (Provided):

3/4 in., 1 in., 1-1/2 in., 2 in.

 

Sander bed assembly with 4 in. x 24 in. sanding belt assembly, 1/2 in., 3/4 in., 1 in., 1-1/2 in. and 2 in. diameter sanding sleeves

 

The important is that it has 1/2"  because  for all the small diameters will be needed for sanding.

Also this table has another advantage on the other; tilting.

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Thanks for all the information guys.  Just out of curiosity, if I have the Byrnes disc sander already, would the belt sander on the Rigid model come in handy at all?

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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Mike,

 

Unless you intend to model at 1:36 or something like that, the additional surface area with the belt over a 3" drum

may not offer that much more function, but that or the drum allows you to sand with the grain, while a disc or vertical

 belt sands across the grain.  For sanding end grain for precise match up , I trust the disc over any sort of belt because

a belt will have give in/out.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Bob,


With a free 1/2" shaft you are potentially golden for options for the machine.


1.  You loose the table, but for free hand - if you wish to save on the cost of the sanding medium:


There are sleeveless drums - they use sheet sandpaper:
 

 

                                              post-4267-0-95465300-1469578935.jpg
            06P14.jpg    



Woodcraft has 3" x 3" , 2.5" x 3" , 2" x 3"  drums with a 1/2" set screw socket mount. They have a 1/2" rod for a chuck to grip.
Peachtree Woodworking Supply  has 3" x 3" , 2"x 3"
they also have 4.5" x 3"  and 6" x 3" for a large surface.
Both also have 1" x 3"  and 3/4" x 3"  but the socket mount is 1/4" -  they have a 1/4" rod

As far as 1/4" tools:

There are shaft arbors that mount on a 1/2" shaft:

 

 

                                           post-4267-0-23450400-1469578984.jpg    
            3ZN03_AW01 s.jpg

They are available from multiple sources, but low quality will likely not run true.

Granger has arbors that are 1/2" x 20 (fine) threaded at the business end as both RH and LH.
They can mount buffing and grinding media - with a 1/2" hole.

I am guessing that your machine turns CCW -  I confuse myself with LH vs RH,
but Grainger has a 1/4" chuck - it is only 1/4" though - that threads on the 1/2" x 20 shaft and tightens down with CCW rotation.

 

                                               post-4267-0-63384000-1469579013.jpg       
            1F612_AS01 s.jpg


With this chuck, the 3" x 1"  and  3" x 3/4" drums can be used.

In addition 1/4"  carbine burrs can be mounted.

 

 

                                                post-4267-0-17822800-1469579037.jpg      
            259700_F.jpg

Wood Carvers Supply has a wide variety of choices available.  For our uses, the fine carbide seems coarse enough.

There is a Jacobs chuck that will mount on the 1/2" x 20 rod at Harbor Freight

 

                                       post-4267-0-65405500-1469579062.jpg          
            image_18878 s.jpg

Again, CCW holds it down.

With this chuck you can use the Microplane tools  1" x 2.5"  and 2" x 2.5"

 

 

                              post-4267-0-44633100-1469579101.jpg                    
            828821 s.jpg

These cutters are designed to use CCW rotation and have a 5/16" rod for a chuck to grip.

If you find a tool with a 1/2" rod and want to mount it, Grainger  has a 1/2" shaft coupling:

 

 

                                    post-4267-0-53388000-1469579133.jpg            
            6L013_AS01.jpg



 I have just made my own version of this machine, but with inspiration from Jim Byrnes - his machines are 1/3 HP - 2 pole - but are ~ 3400 RPM - twice what a sander wants - I bought a 1/3 HP self cooling 2 pole 1700 RPM motor and wired it with a drum switch so it will rotate CW as well as CCW.  I am right handed and prefer working on the right side of the drum.  But when sanding the rail end of a frame on the left arm - the drum tries to throw the work.  Flipping a switch to reverse the rotation solves the problem.  But with CW rotation, the chuck wants to walk up the threaded rod.  Set screw mounted tools work either rotation.  I will have to think about how and if I want to add the belt sanding option.  I had not thought of that possibility until your post.

These tools work fine for free hand use.  For cutting the bevels on frames, the change is continuous so a table is not much use - free hand seems about it.  I am thinking that the 4.5x3 and 6x3 drums will give me plenty of room to work.

I also want to use the Microplane and 3" drums as an edger, to sand and true up boards that are too wide to fit my sanding planer.  The arbors and chucks are not turning as precisely true as I wish.   So, as much as I hate have to tear down my lathe to clean up the steel cuttings, I will probably bore my own shaft couplings from 3/4" steel rod,   bore a 1/4" hole in one end and 1/2" in the other and drill and tap for set screws in one and 5/16" by 1/2" in another.
 

Edited by Jaager

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Most of my interest has been in building guitars, and shipmodeling is something I'll get around to, probably this coming winter.  At the moment, mostly I'm working on building a small foam/canvas camping trailer (tnttt.com), which is turning into a timesink.

 

I have a full armory of sanding (and other hand, portable and stationary power tools) with the exception of inflatable drums, but the Rigid is probably the one I use the most, along with a disc sander, for shaping parts for guitars such as necks, braces and all those other non-linear/planar surfaces of guitars.

 

You might have a look at tools that luthiers use to make small parts, in particular a Robo-sander.  Go to stewmac.com or lmii.com and have a look around.

 

Here's a pic of the ship/timber-framed deck for the trailer.  It's cedar, with mortise & tenon and notched half-lap joints. the spaces within the grid have been filled with polystyrene foam house insulation wit gorilla glue, which makes a very lightweight but strong structure.  No metal fasteners are necessary except those needed to attach it to the steel trailer chassis:

post-15622-0-10322700-1469635519.jpg

Edited by Bob Blarney
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