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HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build


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#1
Sunsanvil

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Well, I've finally had time to reset the modelling table and start this project. I feel very confident with the overall process but already have some wood related questions.

Here is my false keel:

image.jpeg

Sorry for the poor light. What l'm trying to show is that at the top edge (the one resting against the strait edge), is out of true by, litterally, 1mm (gap between it and the strait edge at the mid point). I have no idea if that's crazy unaceptable or within normal wood tolerances at this size and scale. The bottom edge is perfect. I've read about soaking and clamping parts such as this to strait edges etc but I really wonder if I mightn't make it worse rather than better.

The other starting question is on laminating the two keel halves.

image.jpeg

The instructions caution against using wood glue, suggesting instead CA/super glue but I'd rather not the later if possible. If one is judicious with the amount of wood glue, and weight it down against a perfectly flat surface, is there that much danger of warpage?

Also wondering if someone can suggest a good set of files? The ones I have now are too fine. Great for plastic, but no good for shaping wood.

Thanks all....
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#2
Elijah

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I'm not very experienced with wooden ships, I am working on my first, but I do prefer wood glue over CA. I don't know how to solve your keel problems, but someone will probably have an answer for you. Good luck!
-Elijah

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#3
CaptainSteve

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Hi, Sunsanvil. Just trying to address your questions. Firstly, the edge on the top of the central false keel should not matter at all. Ultimately, you will lift this whole frame (central keel piece with attached bulkhead formers) out. The frame is only used to give shape to your planking. 

 

As for your second query regarding the keel pieces ... personally, I used wood glue, also. Then I clamped the pieces down whilst the glue dried. If you are worried, then use the white wood glue. The yellow is probably stronger, but will also be thicker, and may add to any warpage.

 

Hope this helps you ... and I look forward to following your progress.


Edited by CaptainSteve, 16 September 2016 - 02:32 AM.

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CaptainSteve

 

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#4
Sunsanvil

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Thanks Cap'n.  I was inclined to just use the false keel as is but thought it best to ask.  It occurred to me though that it does mean the top of the center frame will be ever so slightly off kilter, probably by only 0.5mm, relative to the stem and stern, but on an 18" model made of wood which is going to change and shift over the course of the build anyway, perhaps a non issue?

 

As for CA, I actually like using it for certain things but a big long keel like that, to me, is asking for trouble: apply the thin CA without the two halves being perfectly perfectly flat and one might just end up locking in a warp. :)

 

Thinking ahead to the frames, it strikes me that, where they are all nicely marked for the sheer tabs/guides, would I not be wise to leave the sheer tabs off until after fairing of the frames?  They have to be faired past the tabs anyway and that would be a lot easier if the tabs weren't there at the time....


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#5
CaptainSteve

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I faired the bulkheads before fitting the sheer tabs, too ... it just made more sense. I also thought it a good idea to add extra sheer tabs, but then removed them later, as they just got in the way.

 

Also, you may want to compare the stem-post from your kit against the plans. In my kit, the size of the cut-out for the pintles/gudgeons differed from one plan sheet ... but agreed with another. See here to see what I mean. My fix is here.

 

Thinking back to your false keel ... it probably would be a good idea to clamp the piece and press it as perfectly flat as you can. Even though your variance is only 1mm or so, it would help to align the bulkheads better if the keel was flat.


Edited by CaptainSteve, 16 September 2016 - 10:21 PM.

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CaptainSteve

 

Current Build:   USS Constitution (Model Shipways)

 

My BathTub:     Bounty Launch (Model Shipways)      Log:  Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve

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                        HMS Victory (Constructo)

 

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#6
Sunsanvil

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Finally getting back to this and have my building frame ready to assemble.  The instructions are very clear, in several places, that the shear tabs should face forward on molds 9-15 and rearward on 1-8.   But doing so means that the dotted fairing guide lines on 1-3 and 15 are on the wrong side.  Just short sighted design?

 

I've laminated the real keel and stem parts and scarf joined them.  Lines up perfect with the plans at the bow but I notice that the whole thing is shorter than what is on the plans by about 1/8".  The frame notches do not all line up with what is on the plans but do line up with molds on the false keel though so I'm thinking its the printout which is wrong....


Edited by Sunsanvil, 30 September 2016 - 04:18 PM.

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#7
CaptainSteve

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Half of your bulkheads will be meant to face the opposite direction so that the fairing will be correct. When it comes time to fit the ribs (frames), the sheer-tabs will help to prevent them from sliding off the faired bulkheads.

 

One idea would be to wax the lower edges of your bulkheads (after fairing) to ensure they do not stick to the frames.


Edited by CaptainSteve, 30 September 2016 - 09:23 PM.

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CaptainSteve

 

Current Build:   USS Constitution (Model Shipways)

 

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                        HMS Victory (Constructo)

 

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#8
Sunsanvil

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Half of your bulkheads will be meant to face the opposite direction so that the fairing will be correct.

Except the fairing guides on the few which have then end up on the wrong side. Not a big deal but seems like an oversight in the design/instructions...

image.jpeg
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#9
Sunsanvil

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image.jpeg

Building frame is just about ready. Keel is ready, rabbet carved.

What to do about this abomination...

image.jpg

Is the consensus to put it on the inside and hide it with stowage? I don't have the right material to make my own.

I'm a little confused about carving the taper at the stem. Concave, convex, othe...?


Edited by Sunsanvil, 01 November 2016 - 12:29 PM.

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#10
CaptainSteve

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What to do about this abomination...
 

 

That caused a great deal of consternation when I was doing my own Launch. None of us could work out exactly why it was necessary to stamp TRANS into that piece. It's easily the most recognisable part in the whole kit. Sanding it out won't work - I've tried !!

In the end, I planked over the part with thin (0.5mm) veneer. 


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CaptainSteve

 

Current Build:   USS Constitution (Model Shipways)

 

My BathTub:     Bounty Launch (Model Shipways)      Log:  Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve

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                        HMS Victory (Constructo)

 

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#11
CaptainSteve

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I'm a little confused and carving the taper at the stem. Concave, convex, othe...?

 

I guess you'd call it convex. The first photo in this link shows my stem, after tapering.


Edited by CaptainSteve, 01 November 2016 - 05:38 AM.

CaptainSteve

 

Current Build:   USS Constitution (Model Shipways)

 

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                        HMS Victory (Constructo)

 

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#12
Tigersteve

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Annoying they would burn it right on the transom. I would attempt to make a new one. No extra wood in the kit that thickness? Maybe get some extra basswood from Michael's?
Steve

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#13
KeithW

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When I built this kit, I just planked over the transom with some spare veneer I had from another kit, then stained it the same colour. It looks pretty convincing. 


Regards, Keith

gallery_1526_572_501.jpg 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina  gallery_1526_579_484.jpg 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati  post-1526-0-02110200-1403452426.jpg 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways
post-1526-0-63099100-1404175751.jpg Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel

#14
Sunsanvil

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Building frame complete. Keel, stem, and transom in place. Very first (test) rib in place.

image.jpeg

Need to run to the store and get a tub of file clips. :)
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#15
Tigersteve

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Good start. Looking forward to your progress.
Steve
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#16
CaptainSteve

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Just a quick heads-up you may want to keep in mind ...

When bending the frames, I lost quite a few to breakage before realizing that I needed to pay closer attention to the run of the wood-grain (though it seems you had no problems with your first one).


Edited by CaptainSteve, 20 November 2016 - 02:39 AM.

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CaptainSteve

 

Current Build:   USS Constitution (Model Shipways)

 

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#17
Sunsanvil

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Is there a visual cue to use?

 

I read that a gentle plying of the part will give an indication of the best orientation to bend it in (the one which is most yielding).


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#18
Sunsanvil

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How much spring back on the ribs is acceptable? Or phrased another way, how close to perfection should I be going for? Here is my test rib after being clamped in place for 24 hours.
image.jpeg
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#19
CaptainSteve

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Is there a visual cue to use?

 

I read that a gentle plying of the part will give an indication of the best orientation to bend it in (the one which is most yielding).

 

Can't say that I know wood well enough to have spotted any visual clues. I'd agree with what you have read about gently plying the wood. If it doesn't yield, then turn it 90 degrees.

 

How much spring back on the ribs is acceptable? Or phrased another way, how close to perfection should I be going for? Here is my test rib after being clamped in place for 24 hours.
 

 

That looks good. The plans, as I recall, mention spot-gluing the frame pieces just above the sheer-tabs.


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CaptainSteve

 

Current Build:   USS Constitution (Model Shipways)

 

My BathTub:     Bounty Launch (Model Shipways)      Log:  Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve

                        Apostol Felipe (OcCre)

                        HMS Victory (Constructo)

 

Check It Out:    The Kit-Basher's Guide to The Galaxy


#20
Sunsanvil

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That looks good. The plans, as I recall, mention spot-gluing the frame pieces just above the sheer-tabs.

 

Thanks. Indeed they will be spot glued. I just didn't know if that much spring-back is "normal" or if I would want to reheat one like that and try to get it a little closer to perfection before forcing it the last couple mm into place.


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