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Simple carving techniques for first-timers using a chisel and knives


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#21
src

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    Captain Chaos

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I am liking the baby steps you're showing Chuck, thanks

Sam


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Current Build Constructo Enterprise

 

Ship Modeling

Noun

a long-term mental disorder involving a breakdown in the relation between thought, emotion, and behavior, leading to faulty perception, inappropriate actions and feelings and a masochistic need to obsessively rebuild items regardless of the naked eyes ability to see the difference.


#22
hornet

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Well I know bugger all about carving, but I have admired a number of Janos's creations over the last couple of years. One that springs to mind is the vulture he carved for Danny's build. I reckon he knows more about the subject than most of us. When this thread started, he was the first one I thought of. I was hoping he would share some of his knowledge, tricks and ideas with us. I'm sad to see him leave. :( :(
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Hornet

 

Current Build: - Caldercraft - HMAV Bounty

 

Completed Ship Builds:

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                                     Clipper Seawitch (maker unknown - too long ago to remember!)

                                     Corel - Victory

                                     Modeller's Shipyard - A Schooner of Port Jackson - In Gallery

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                                                                      - Cutter `Mermaid'- In Gallery

                                                                      - Sirius Longboat (bashed) - In Gallery

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                                       On the shelf awaiting construction: - Caldercraft  - HM Bark Endeavour 


#23
ASAT

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Wow.... I just don't get reactions like that - aren't the results we achieve able to speak for themselves? There are always going to be differences of opinion, and a thousand different ways to achieve a great result, heck there are probably still people that believe that plank on bulkhead is a blasphemous method of model ship building, it's just sad that anyone feels that their only recourse is to stop contributing, how does that promote the increase of knowledge or skill?

Lou
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#24
Chuck

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Hornet...

 

I thought the same thing.   I havent given up hope though.   I thought he would get excited about this and share his experience and expertise by joining in and becoming a mentor for rotary enthusiasts.

 

Anyway,  lets get this topic back on track without commenting further about it and just hope he see how ridiculous he is being.  I will continue with my carving techniques discussion showing a stop cut for those who are interested.

 

Chuck


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Chuck Passaro - MSW Admin 

 

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#25
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Yes Chuck, please continue. Even after watching some of the sculptors where I work and picking their brains this is still a black art to me. Hopefully you and others can shed some light on it for me.

Sam


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Current Build Constructo Enterprise

 

Ship Modeling

Noun

a long-term mental disorder involving a breakdown in the relation between thought, emotion, and behavior, leading to faulty perception, inappropriate actions and feelings and a masochistic need to obsessively rebuild items regardless of the naked eyes ability to see the difference.


#26
Chuck

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Thanks

 

I am far from being in a position to show others,  I am just starting out....but I hope others that have more experience will guide everyone, including me.

 

Chuck


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Chuck Passaro - MSW Admin 

 

Current build - HMS Winchelsea - POB scratch build

                            HM Cutter Cheerful - POB scratch build

       Royal Barge - POF scratch

 

www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com

 


#27
KeithW

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Anyway. Back to business. For anyone who is interested in carving, I recommend this book: http://carvingbook.weebly.com/by MSW member Bill Short. Come to think of it, I haven't seen him for a long time. 


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Regards, Keith

gallery_1526_572_501.jpg 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina  gallery_1526_579_484.jpg 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati  post-1526-0-02110200-1403452426.jpg 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways
post-1526-0-63099100-1404175751.jpg Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel

#28
druxey

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I'm sorry if offence was taken with my comment earlier. None was intended. I still maintain the look is different - I'm not saying one is 'right' or 'wrong'.


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#29
Chuck

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The stop cut is very important in relief carving.  It is a two stroke cut that is used to create depth and relief.

 

If you look at the crown design you can see the cross piece of the letters.  I have indicated a stop cut on each side of the cross piece in red.  

 

cipherdrawing.jpg

 

To replicate this in my crude playdoh demo.....I have created the letter A.  Note the wood grain added.

 

stop1.jpg

 

The first stroke in a stop cut is to slice very carefully to the depth you want.  In this case I am creating a cut straight down.  Remember not to try and go too deep on the first try but rather make a series of stop cuts until you reach the desired depth and shape.  So this first stroke if very shallow to only just begin creating depth.

 

stop2.jpg

 

Heres what it looks like in playdoh

 

stop3.jpg

 

The second stroke of a stop cut is to slice a very thin sliver off.  Carve with your blade or chisel towards the stop cut.  A small sliver should pop free creating depth.

 

stop4.jpg

 

Repeat this process until you reach a depth and shape you want....yes I know it doesnt look great in playdoh but you get the idea.  I am using a small kitchen knife to represent my micro chisel or #11 blade.  Remember that the piece is just 1/32" thick so you will be taking it down at microscopic intervals as you repeat the two stroke stop cut many times on each side of the cross piece.

 

stop5.jpg

 

Then start the process on the other side of the cross bar...

 

stop6.jpg

 

stop7.jpg

 

stop8.jpg

 

Eventually you will have created some depth in the piece and then you could further shape it by rounding off the edges and cleaning it up....

 

 

again ...take a look at my first attempt and and how the cross piece of the letters looks after applying stop cuts to each side....then cleaning it up.  I am sure more experienced carvers can do a much better job with it but this particular cut is used throughout relief carving for ship model carvings.  You will use it a lot.  As I did on my paper design...you can mark where you want your stop cuts in advance....they are shown in red on the drawing.  You can see the other carving and probably pick out where I used the stop cut.  I like to plan ahead and mark them out on my drawing.  I like to pencil where all of the overlaps will be and depth is created.  Its easy to lose track when you lose yourself in the carving process and seeing the pencil marks on the carving helps avoid a mistake where you will have to start over.

 

carvingsample.jpg

 

see my pencil marks on the uncarved half of this piece.  They show where I will use stop cuts.

 

bargecarving.jpg


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Chuck Passaro - MSW Admin 

 

Current build - HMS Winchelsea - POB scratch build

                            HM Cutter Cheerful - POB scratch build

       Royal Barge - POF scratch

 

www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com

 


#30
Captain Poison

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This is a great topic! I always wanted to learn about woodcarving and these tutorials are a great way to extend my knowledge.
My next construction requires of the carving of parts including the figurehead..

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#31
ziled68

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Hey Chuck,

I am so glad that you've actually started this basic tutorial on carving. The concepts and ideas that you are implementing in your discussion is rather straight forward and easily understood. Starting the first cut to have a clean stopping point for the inevitable shave insures that you don't overshoot the mark. Now I know that what I want to say next may be a little off but I believe it shares the same concept. Traditional Celtic Viking tattoo designs show where one knot work goes beneath another via shadows. The line that goes above is clear and sharp while the line beneath has shadows to represent depth. Attached you will see a photo that serves a dual purpose. It will show neat lines and shadowed depth areas while at the same time give people ideas for Viking longboat carving.

 

Ray

Attached Thumbnails

  • NorseTattoo.jpg

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#32
Chuck

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That is exactly correct....nice image.  would make an excellent carving.  :)


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Chuck Passaro - MSW Admin 

 

Current build - HMS Winchelsea - POB scratch build

                            HM Cutter Cheerful - POB scratch build

       Royal Barge - POF scratch

 

www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com

 


#33
AntonyUK

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Hi Chuck.
Have been waiting for this tutorial for some time.
Brilliant .
Following this one very closely and going to get some knifes and sutable timber.

Thank you so much for creating this opportunity for me to learn wood carving.
Regards Antony.
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Best advice ever given to me."If you don't know ..Just ask"


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#34
Nirvana

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Chuck,
I like the idea of working playdoh before the wood. Interesting approach and how-to. Besides if it goes wrong it's just to start over again without any Woodloss.
I think we have plenty of good carvers in here.

Edited by Nirvana, 18 October 2016 - 09:50 PM.

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Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per

 

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#35
maaaslo

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Back home in eastern europe, wood carvers traditionaly use wood of Linden tree. Its soft and behaves a lot like hard butter...
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#36
Nirvana

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I would say in Europe general. Very common in Scandinavia too.
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Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per

 

Ship modeling is a long lesson in patience - Me

It's better to get something done later than never

 

Denial is futile, MSW is here to stay.

 

 Therapy for Shipaholics

 

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden

Current: America by Constructo, Harley almost a Harvey , 18th Century Longboat, Solö Ruff

National Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry


#37
Roger Pellett

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A question: In making a stop cut where the direction of the cut is aligned with the grain, isn't there a danger that the downward pressure from the knife will split the wood? What type of stroke do you use to prevent this?

Roger Pellett
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#38
Jack12477

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I generally make the stop cut at right angles to the grain direction whenever possible not along the direction of the grain. Also it's a slicing action not a downward thrust trying to push the knife thru the wood, you slice across the wood. The purpose of the stop cut is to stop the grain from tearing out and to give the blade something to "bump up against".  A light pressure with a very sharp blade is all that's needed. That's my experience.

 

I found this YouTube video online that demonstrates the stop cut - in the video he's carving a Snowman Xmas ornament but the carving technique is the same whether it's a miniature as Chuck is doing or a larger Snowman as in the video. It's the same technique. In the video he alternates between the knife and a gouge - just substitute a knife for the gouge when watching his technique.


Edited by Jack12477, 20 October 2016 - 05:34 PM.

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Jack
 
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#39
Chuck

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As Jack mention...make shallow slices to create your stop cut.  That is for with the grain or against it....it doesnt really matter.  The design will dictate wether you must do it or not.  Sometimes you just dont have a choice based on teh design.

 

In fact, on our tiny carving blanking they will be minuscule so you will need to complete many two-stroke stop cuts to get to the depth you need.  By removing only tiny slivers it minimizes the danger of splitting the wood.   This is also why the wood choice is important.  A softer wood is going to perform as well as a harder wood here.  You might have to perform as many as 5 or 6 or 7 stop cuts to achieve the shape and depth you want.  Trying to do that in one pass would not be recommended.

 

Chuck


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Chuck Passaro - MSW Admin 

 

Current build - HMS Winchelsea - POB scratch build

                            HM Cutter Cheerful - POB scratch build

       Royal Barge - POF scratch

 

www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com

 


#40
druxey

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Another variation on the stop cut technique I use is to make the downward cut across first (not too deep or too much pressure!) then the slicing cut. Now, it's easy to apply too much pressure and 'overshoot' the stop cut, ruining the piece. To minimise this possibility, instead of pushing my blade, I very gently pulsate or vibrate it forward. Hard to describe, but it's putting a tiny bit of forward pressure on  intermittently. At some point the wood will 'give' along the grain, but the blade stops at the cross cut. (This works for hardwoods. I've not tried this in softwood.)


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