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Interesting milling problem


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11 replies to this topic

#1
dvm27

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I have an interesting milling problem regarding the quarterdeck transom. The simple solution is CNC but I don't have this. A router would also accomplish task but, again, do not have one. The transom is rounded up over it's top surface and concave over it's fore surface. I need to create a 3" wide by 2" deep rebate for the quarterdeck planks to land on the fore edge (outlined in pencil). I could slice off this 3" and add a correctly dimensioned filler piece but I'd like to use the full thickness if possible. Any of you advanced millers have any ideas?

QD transom.jpg


Edited by dvm27, 02 December 2016 - 10:01 PM.

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Greg

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#2
mtaylor

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Greg,

 

What I've seen in some of the logs is something similar to what I did for the beam sanding.  Set the jig up such that the milled area rests against a mating surface with an opening for the mill to have access to the workpiece.

 

I'm including two photos ... one of the curved beam jig and one of the waterway jig.  Using the beam jig, I could cut a rebate into the deck beam if I wanted.

 

I would use a piece like on the waterway jig to keep your fingers away from the cutting tool.

 

 

Beam Sanding Jig -2.JPG

 

waterway milling.JPG


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Mark

"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me


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#3
thibaultron

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You don't need a mill for the sanding setup, you could also do them on a drill press, or a router table.


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#4
jhearl

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Ah, but note the OP indicated that the piece is not flat in either plane - the top is rounded up and the forward part is concave. That means the jigs shown above won't work. The cut has to be made in two directions at once. I frankly don't have an idea how to do this, but I'll be interested to see if someone comes up with a workable solution. It's an interesting little problem.

 

Cheers -

John


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#5
jud

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Knife and chisels, finishing up with careful sanding.

jud


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#6
mtaylor

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John... I missed that.  Excellent point.  I guess Jud has the answer.   Or maybe a table of offsets....?  Hmm.... 


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Mark

"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me


Current Build:

Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0

Past Builds:
Triton Cross-Section
USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War (Gallery) Build Log
Wasa (Gallery)


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#7
dvm27

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You are correct John. Other than CNC, I could think of no way to mill this. So I sliced it off and replaced with the properly dimensioned ledge. Careful use of chisels might have resulted in a similar result but a slip here or ther would ruin the rest of the piece.

DSCN6656.jpg

 

 


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Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
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Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752


#8
jud

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Marks method would have worked it the fence had been raised enough to allow continued sanding until the desired depth was reached.

jud


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#9
reklein

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possibly you could band saw or scroll saw in two separate pieces. Cut a curved side , tape the cutoff back on and cut the second curved side. Then cut the smaller step piece and add it to the larger piece.


Edited by reklein, 05 December 2016 - 05:57 PM.

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Bill, in Idaho

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#10
Mike Y

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Mark's method should work in both projections, just with a taller fence.
I ended up cheating and steam bending piece in one projection, but milling it in another projections like TFFM suggests (where the curve would be more visible, hence should be more accurate).
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#11
mtaylor

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I've given this problem a bit more thought... a jig could be made using what i suggested before BUT the base would have be curved (see picture) and also long enough for the entire piece of wood to remain in contact with it.

 

After watching Michael Mott machine things, perhaps a table of offsets would be easier to generate than making the jig.

 

jig.gif


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Mark

"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me


Current Build:

Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0

Past Builds:
Triton Cross-Section
USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War (Gallery) Build Log
Wasa (Gallery)


Member of the Nautical Research Guild


#12
michael mott

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Mark depending on how fine a set of offsets it can get you very close and is quite accurate, then just finish off with some sanding sticks.

 

Michael


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