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Yard arm tapering


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13 replies to this topic

#1
Johnnymike

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I am sure this topic has been discussed but after searching unsuccessfully for a while

I decided to be lazy and ask the question anew.

 

I would like to see how you experts taper yard arms. I am still learning and

have had some success but I would like others ideas.

 

JMS 


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#2
Ulises Victoria

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Hello. I put them to spin in a drill at low speed and just hold a piece of sandpaper on the other end. HTH.


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Ulises

 

If you want something you've never had, 

you have to do something you've never done.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Current Project Build Log: French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 
Last finished projectRoyal Ship Vasa 1628 

 

Future projects already in my stash:  Panart: San Felipe 1/75  (most likely my next project);

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                                                         OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90.

 

My Wish List: Soleil Royale. Sovereign of the Seas. Amati 1/64 Victory (if it ever comes out :) )


#3
amateur

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file, caliper, and some eyeballing (but I'm not an expert :) )

Works fine as long as there are not too many yards.

The drill didn't work for me: problems with centering en getting the whole thing stable.

 

Jan


Edited by amateur, 08 December 2016 - 03:26 PM.

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#4
6ohiocav

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I turn all of my yards from square stock on a mini lathe. I use a spindle steady rest for those very thin and fragile yards to keep them from wobbling/breaking.

 

Anything that can't be put in the lathe is done as Jan suggests, by hand with a file, mini block plane, or sanding stick.


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#5
Maurys

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You could always do it the way they were done in the real world.  Start with square stock (thereby insuring no bend in the stick), mark the taper and with a "7 - 10 - 7 fan" and cut it down to 8-sided, (then 16 depending on scale), then sand round.

This way you'll actually develop some very useful skills.

Maury


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Current diversion:  Anchor Hoy c 1815 - 1825  1:48 scale

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#6
J T Lombard

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Maury:

Can you explain what a "7 - 10 - 7 fan" is?

 

thanks

 

J


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#7
BANYAN

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JT here is a rough copy of such a fan someone posted on this site I think (sorry cannot recall who).  These are the proportions by which to reduce square stock to get an octagon (the 10 is the meat that remains).  Simply place the square stock on the fan so that the edges of the stock meet the outer edges of the '7' fan lines, then mark the wood with the other lines. The lines should be ruled with a straight edge back towards the centre to reflect the angle of taper rquired.  For some yards, not direct to the centre but to the point of transition from straight octagonal to taperered round.   These then give you the guide lines to which you reduce the square stock with plane, chisel, file or.... :)

 

Note: the square stock should be reduced to the appropriate thickness before starting, such that the width of the meat [10] ends up wide enough, that after rounding, is the correct diameter of the round - this takes a little calculation.  Always better to err on 'bigger' so that you can reduce; harder to add :)  Once you have the round, even in taper, it is relatively easy to maintain it with further sanding.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Attached Thumbnails

  • 7_10_7_template for octogons.jpg

Edited by BANYAN, 10 December 2016 - 04:21 AM.

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If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch) - underway

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#8
J T Lombard

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Pat:

Thanks for your explanation & the "fan".

 

regards

 

J


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#9
John Allen

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Don't cringe this made sound crude to all you perfectionists (do not take offense no criticism intended you sometimes have to work with whats at hand))  but having no top end tools,  I used a dremel with a sanding drum, held stock by hand and slowly rotated starting at the middle worked out intermittently checked with a micrometer, I ended up with with some hollows that were easy to sand out with sheet sandpaper it's pretty fast. only had to redo one on hms vic.


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John Allen

 

 

Current build Mamoli HMS Victory

Armed Launch-Panart

Diligence English Revenue Cutter-Marine  Model Co. 

On deck Maori (Waca) war canoe

and Double hull Polynesian canoe (Holakea)


#10
JerseyCity Frankie

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I think it depends on the size of the spar you are making. If its above a certain size its probably best, for the sake of accuracy, to start with square stock and, by using cutting tools, get the spar to eight or sixteen sides and taper at that point. With the hard geometric edges you can better judge the proportions and bring a little science into how you taper. BELLOW a certain size the taper can be best accomplished through sanding alone- either with sanding sticks or chucked into a rotary tool of your choice or both. This method is better for smaller stuff since you can remove material SLOWLY and gradually approach the taper you want. Trying to shave off slices with a knife or plane at a smaller scale, you are more likely to mess up by removing too much material in one pass. What size determines the method? I would say it depends on your ability to control the amount of material your plane or knife blade can remove.


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#11
bigcreekdad

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I've used both a drill and a mini lathe. Sandpaper or a file to taper. You really need to make sure the dowel is straight before starting to taper to avoid the wobble. I've had good luck with both.


Edited by bigcreekdad, 10 December 2016 - 01:50 PM.

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#12
S.Coleman

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Same as the rest. Drill works for me. Leave about 30-45mm extra on the spar/ yard to slot into the drill.
Once the yard is spun down to the correct Dia, simply cut of the 30-45mm extra.
This saves marking your already spun peice from the drills chuck. Hope thes all help you.
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Regards, Scott

Current build: 1:75 Friesland, Mamoli

Completed builds:
1:64 Rattlesnake, Mamoli
1:64 HMS Bounty, Mamoli
1:54 Adventure, Amati
1:80 King of the Mississippi, AL
1:64 Blue Shadow, Mamoli
1:64 Leida Dutch pleasure boat, Corel
1:60 HMS President Mantra, Sergal

Awaiting construction:
1:89 Hermione La Fayette AL
1:48 Perserverance, Modelers shipyard

#13
Johnnymike

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Thanks 

All replies were read with great interest.

 

JMS


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#14
normanh

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I shape mine purely by hand and eye, marking the end grain with a black dot the size/diameter I wish the yard needs to finish up. The I mark the position from where the taper starts. Using a good small hand file I file to the end from the start mark carefully rotating the yard on the edge of my work bench until the correct profile is obtained. I have used this technique on all 3 of my models to date now never fails. Just to finish I twist the yard in some fine abrasive to give a good finish thats about 30 in total. No machines used or needed.

 

Norman


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Norman

 

 

Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck.

Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake.

Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon.





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