Jump to content

Welcome to Model Ship World
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!
Photo

Radio control for an oar-powered model.


  • Please log in to reply
36 replies to this topic

#21
Mirabell61

Mirabell61
  • Members
  • 4,147 posts
  • LocationGlinde, state Schleswig-Holstein, Germany

 

As some of you may know, some time ago I built Amati's model of a Greek bireme. Although it's a 'Static' model, I opted to make the oars actually operate. I used a couple of radio control servos to raise and lower them ant to sweep them back and forwards.

I built a simple electronics circuit to drive the servos. Operation is limited to a simple straight ahead rowing action. However, that set me thinking about ways to have full control over the oars. I had no thoughts of actually building an RC oar powered model, but I did consider various ways in which it could be done.

 

Some time later Jim (bensid54 on the ModelShipBuider site) contacted me to say he was thinking of building an RC version of the bireme. That started me off again thinking of how to control the oars. I'd recently fitted a microprocessor in my model of Vanguard to flicker the lights so I decided to try using one to drive the oars.

 

Jim recently posted a Video of his system on YouTube which I thought was a great idea.

He's used some advanced feature of his radio system to control two modified servos so he has variable speed control of each set of oars.

I had to make do with my son's basic 2 channel radio which is specifically designed for use with a model car, (trigger for throttle, steering wheel on the side) but the microprocessor does allow me to get round those limitations.

 

Anyway, I've copied Jims's idea and posted a video on YouTube:

 

 

As you can see, I've raided the Technics Lego drawer again. It's great for working mechanisms, but all the Technics parts have holes in them so I don't think there's much chance of it actually floating! :)

 

 

Hi Arthur,

 

came across your post with the video today first time....

well made technique for actuating the oars, congrats, it really works !!   ;)   :)

 

Nils


  • bensid54 likes this

My build logs for scratch built ships

Current builds

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, 1:144 (scratchbuild)

http://modelshipworl...ne/#entry319621

Completed builds
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan  (scratchbuild)
http://modelshipworl...ge-1#entry79523

"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96

http://modelshipworl...ed/#entry159607

"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild)

http://modelshipworl...pleted-to-d/page-1#entry168883

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)

http://modelshipworl...to-date/#entry16246

"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50

http://modelshipworl...er/#entry182678

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, (scratchbuild)

http://modelshipworl...ed/#entry280917

 


#22
aew

aew
  • Members
  • 734 posts
  • LocationLeeds, Yorkshire, England

Thanks - but the new version works even better!


  • AntonyUK likes this

Arthur

 

Current build:

 

HMS Vanguard (Victory Models) - Build Log

 

Previous builds:

 

Astrolabe, (Mantua)     - Build Log

Greek Bireme, (Amati) - Build Log - Web site

Gulnara (Krick)           - Build Log (being restored)


#23
bensid54

bensid54
  • Members
  • 514 posts
  • LocationVancouver Canada

Works better by a long shot! I checked it out and the control is great it functions better than mine. You could squeeze all that into a small space with right linkage or gear train. This will be a great system in the right boat with the right mechanics.


  • aew and donrobinson like this

#24
aew

aew
  • Members
  • 734 posts
  • LocationLeeds, Yorkshire, England

Jim: Can your 'new' radio be set up to control your bireme in the same way as the previous one?


  • mtaylor likes this

Arthur

 

Current build:

 

HMS Vanguard (Victory Models) - Build Log

 

Previous builds:

 

Astrolabe, (Mantua)     - Build Log

Greek Bireme, (Amati) - Build Log - Web site

Gulnara (Krick)           - Build Log (being restored)


#25
bensid54

bensid54
  • Members
  • 514 posts
  • LocationVancouver Canada

I think so Arthur, I haven't had the Bireme in the water since Fathers Day when I had my son help me with the video. Need a new camera based on the quality of my old one. I haven't done much hobby work in my shed except for gluing the odd part on my Bluenose but I have made something on the lathe at work I'll post pictures.


  • mtaylor likes this

#26
bensid54

bensid54
  • Members
  • 514 posts
  • LocationVancouver Canada

New finished Civil War Mortar, not totally accurate in detail but it is operational. I have never tried it never plan to and it can be easily disabled if required.

Attached Thumbnails

  • DSCN3291.JPG
  • DSCN3297.JPG
  • DSCN3298.JPG
  • DSCN3299.JPG
  • DSCN3300.JPG

  • mtaylor and Tadeusz43 like this

#27
aew

aew
  • Members
  • 734 posts
  • LocationLeeds, Yorkshire, England
Nice job Jim; how big is it?
  • mtaylor likes this

Arthur

 

Current build:

 

HMS Vanguard (Victory Models) - Build Log

 

Previous builds:

 

Astrolabe, (Mantua)     - Build Log

Greek Bireme, (Amati) - Build Log - Web site

Gulnara (Krick)           - Build Log (being restored)


#28
bensid54

bensid54
  • Members
  • 514 posts
  • LocationVancouver Canada

Thanks Arthur it was a quick build so I'm happy with the results. Four inches wide 6 1/2 inches long and about 7 inches tall. The bore is about 1 1/8 inch 4 1/2 inches deep and I'm sure would make a very nasty bang.


  • mtaylor likes this

#29
aew

aew
  • Members
  • 734 posts
  • LocationLeeds, Yorkshire, England

At that size I can see why you don't intend to try it!


  • mtaylor likes this

Arthur

 

Current build:

 

HMS Vanguard (Victory Models) - Build Log

 

Previous builds:

 

Astrolabe, (Mantua)     - Build Log

Greek Bireme, (Amati) - Build Log - Web site

Gulnara (Krick)           - Build Log (being restored)


#30
Altduck

Altduck
  • Members
  • 178 posts
  • LocationNorthern California

What's the mortar made of?  Could it be rigged and used safely as a carbide cannon?

 

Richard


  • mtaylor likes this

     Richard

 

 


#31
bensid54

bensid54
  • Members
  • 514 posts
  • LocationVancouver Canada

The mortar is solid steel turned on a lathe, I would say it weighs about 10 pounds or under 5 kg, the only wooden parts are the stand. It could be safely used as a carbide cannon as long as you either chain it down or don't put in too much powder. I just went and measured it and the bore is 1 inch the powder pocket or powder bore is 3/4 by 1 inch deep. You could put a 1 inch bearing in there with a bit of fire space around it in the bore so it shouldn't jam and some space where the pins are screwed into. I would start with a little powder to see how it behaves first but I'll leave that up to my son to figure out. I only made it for something to do and thought they were vicious looking things so what the heck.


  • mtaylor likes this

#32
mtaylor

mtaylor

    Bilge Rat

  • SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOR
  • 14,228 posts
  • LocationMedford, OR

That is a serious piece of hardware, Ben.  I would think that blanks would be the way to go with it since where that ball would end up who knows where.   


  • bensid54 likes this

Mark

"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me


Current Build:

Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0

Past Builds:
Triton Cross-Section
USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War (Gallery) Build Log
Wasa (Gallery)


Member of the Nautical Research Guild


#33
bensid54

bensid54
  • Members
  • 514 posts
  • LocationVancouver Canada

Good point Mark I wonder just how far it would go? Let's put it this way I think it would do some serious damage in the wrong hands so maybe I'll just disable it and call it a paper weight.


  • mtaylor likes this

#34
mtaylor

mtaylor

    Bilge Rat

  • SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOR
  • 14,228 posts
  • LocationMedford, OR

No need to disable it.  Just don't let the "kids" or those of us who are kid-like have it.   :)   I have a 1/24th British 9-pdr that I make from scratch.  It fires and will fire (or has fired a ball).  I filled the touch hole up with solder and re-blackened it.  Maybe that's the answer... fill the touchhole.


  • bensid54 likes this

Mark

"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me


Current Build:

Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0

Past Builds:
Triton Cross-Section
USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War (Gallery) Build Log
Wasa (Gallery)


Member of the Nautical Research Guild


#35
bensid54

bensid54
  • Members
  • 514 posts
  • LocationVancouver Canada

I  could do that Mark, I figured filling in the hole would be the answer. I don't get any kids showing up and I'm still waiting for Grand kids to appear so it will likely only be a paperweight.


  • mtaylor likes this

#36
Altduck

Altduck
  • Members
  • 178 posts
  • LocationNorthern California

The carbide I was referring to is Calcium Carbide, which when wetted with water releases acetylene gas.  Add a piezo-electric spark ignitor and it goes BANG, no projectile or high pressure - just a loud noise.  Google "carbide cannon" for more info.  They've been around for years.

 

:pirate41:

 

Richard


  • mtaylor, bensid54 and Jack12477 like this

     Richard

 

 


#37
mtaylor

mtaylor

    Bilge Rat

  • SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOR
  • 14,228 posts
  • LocationMedford, OR

Richard, 

 

Calcium carbide works well.  I won't go into detail about but all my potato guns were fired using the stuff.


  • Altduck, bensid54 and Jack12477 like this

Mark

"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me


Current Build:

Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0

Past Builds:
Triton Cross-Section
USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War (Gallery) Build Log
Wasa (Gallery)


Member of the Nautical Research Guild





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

Welcome GUEST to the Model Ship World Community.
Please LOGIN or REGISTER to use all of our feautures.