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Proxxon Mini Lathe DB-250 - Opinions/assessments/recommendations?


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I posted this sort of question on the old forum, so I'll repost my question here:

 

Anyone have or use the Proxxon Mini Lathe DB-250? If so, comments or recommendations, good or bad are requested.

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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Andy,

 

Yea, I've got a Turncrafter Pro Midi Lathe (Penn State Ind.) that I've used for turning masts & spars on PEACOCK and large models, but I would like a small mini lathe for the smaller stuff. The TP lathe is too large for very small masts, yards, etc.

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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I don't really know anything about lathes but for an additional $250 Harbor Freight has a 7 x 10 precision wood and metal mini lathe.  Seems a better deal than the Proxxon tool.  Just a thought.

David 

 

Current build: US Brig Niagara

 

Completed builds:  Oseberg Viking Ship - Billing Boats

                                   Armed Virginia Sloop - Model Shipways

                                   The Phantom - Model Shipways

 

Next project:  Amati's Xebec

 

A ship has all the discomforts and lack of privacy of a jail with none of its safety or stability - Benjamin Franklin

 

Quis custodiet ipso custodes?

 

 

 

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For me, price is not an issue, I'm more concerned with the trustworthyness and reliability of online retailers. I've seen proxxon tools available from a retailer I have bought from before.... Like Hank, I am curious about what other people think.

 

Andy

Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati


Current Build:

USF Confederacy

 

 

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I bought mine on eBay a year ago for $110 or so.  It was worth every penny as it made turning the masts on my Badger a breeze.  It's the first lathe I ever worked with, so can't really compare it.

 

Blue Ensign on his Pegasus log has a discussion about the DB250 - he seems to like it, and also bought a bed extension for it which I will probably buy down the road as well.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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Well, I guess one good report is better than none - I may order one later this month. I'll look around the online Proxxon vendors and see who might be selling a bed extension, as well.

 

Thanks, Mike/Andy.

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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Hank,

 

Forgot to mention it but Proxxon was at the I-HOBBY show in Cleveland last year. They can be reached in your "neck of the woods" -

 

PROX-TECH, Inc

255 Tate Blvd SE

POBox 1909

Hickory, NC 28603

 

phone (828) 326-0326

email: sales@prox-tech.com

www.proxxon.com/us

ABSOLUTELY NOTHING UNDER DEVELOPMENT 

 

 

 

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Thanks, all - I think I'm about to take the plunge.

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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  • 2 weeks later...

Plunge taken!! We'll see how this tool works for turning small stuff.

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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Ahoy Hank :D

 

Perhaps you would consider doing a review in a  follow up post.

 

Just a thought :)

 

Wishing you the best with your new toy either way

 On with the Show.... B) 

 

  J.Pett

 

“If you're going through hell, keep going” (Winston Churchill)

 

Current build:  MS Rattlesnake (MS2028)

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/45-model-shipways-rattlesnake-ms2028-scale-164th/

 

Side Build: HMS Victory: Corel

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3709-hms-victory-by-jpett-corel-198/?p=104762

 

On the back burner:  1949 Chris Craft Racer: Dumas

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/939-1949-chris-craft-racer-by-jpett-dumas-kit-no-1702/

 

Sometime, but not sure when: Frigate Berlin: Corel

http://www.corel-srl.it/pdf/berlin.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

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I too am looking at a DB 250 in the new year so interested in comments. I noticed some time ago that guraus (Alexandru) has a few proxxon tools showing in the pictures of his scratch build of Victory. Maybe a pm to him to ask for his overall opinion and perhaps respond on this thread.

If I'd known I was going to live this long, I'd have taken better care of myself.

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The Proxxon FD 150/E is a wood/metal working lathe - fairly newly release I think. And quite a bit more expensive. Its the model I have been considering. I just cant justify the cost of a Sherline. I have had very good service from the Aussie Proxxon importer and happy with the other proxxon tools I have - even if I have nothing really to compare to.

Current builds:

MS Syren

HM Suppy

Dos Amigos

 

 

 

Completed:

Schooner for Port Jackson

MS 18th Century Longboat

Bounty Launch

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Attention, the Proxxon FD 150/E doesn't have a leadscrew, so you will not be able to cut threads ! It is what is called a mechanic's lathe. The cross-slide has to repositioned by clamping it to the bed. Which means that the longest piece you can cut is not the bed length between the centers as in other lathes, but only the travel of the top-slide.

 

The good thing is that it has a conus for standerd ER collets, but the capacity of the ER11 collets is rather small at 7 mm. One has to remember though, that ER collets are made for toolholding and not workholding. They don't hold properly, when not using stock that is as long as the collet itself.

 

The backbone, i.e. the bed, seems to be the same extruded profile that is used for the column of their micro-mill.

 

wefalck 

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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Thanks for the various comments -

 

To J. Pett - I'll keep in mind a follow-up critique of the tool once I've used it for a while.

 

To Jaxboat - I only bought the lathe; a bed extension at this point is not being considered. I have my Midi-Lathe for the longer stuff. I'm not sure at this point what the distance is between centers on the DB-250.

 

To Brian C - I don't buy cheap domestic/foreign crap anymore - if that's your choice, GO FOR IT!! I try now to buy once and buy to last.

 

 

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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The DB250 is very good for small stuff. For spars and masts it has a through bore in the chuck so length is not an issue. It will not pass large diameter dowels though so there is a limit. The motor is strong and variable for its size. I have one with attachments and am quite satisfied with it for turning tiny parts. You will need tiny chisels for it.

 

Richard

Edited by SaturnV
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Hello all,

 

I also own a Proxxon DB250 wood lathe with several optional attachments I bought a year or so ago. So far I am very happy with it but I can't compare it with anything else as is the only wood lathe I ever had. It proved to be very reliable and powerful for the small jobs I used it for - pictures 3 and 4. Variable speed I find it useful.

The extra stuff I bought for it was a three jaws chuck, a four jaws one, a mandrel which can be installed to replace the live centre so holes can be drilled into the wood and a set of turning chisels - as you can see in the second picture. The lathe came with six collets of different sizes. 

Think someone already mentioned that it has a bore through the head so longer stock can be worked. The diameter of that hole is 10mm. That also I find very useful as allowed me to work closer to the chuck.

The four jaws chuck is made of some kind of hard plastic. Seems pretty solid but if you clamp in it a piece of (square) wood for only a short distance (say 5mm) so only the tips of the jaws are holding the wood and screw the jaws hard they tend to get out of position. This does not happen if all the jaw surface is in contact with the wood. Other than that works fine.

Another thing I found out is that the wood lathe is only as good as the chisels you have. Before buying the Proxxon set I used to use some regular chisels (shorter) and they didn't do a good job - for me a chisel was a chisel but turns out that not all are made equal... So consider in the price of the lathe at least a good set of chisels (if you don't have one) otherwise you will be disappointed.

As in my build I didn't get to making masts yet - only small posts to support the decks I can't express any opinion about turning long masts.

 

Hope this information helps and if you have any questions I can try to answer them.

Thank you,

 

Alexandru

 

post-540-0-82088400-1374095806_thumb.jpg

post-540-0-81894600-1374095810_thumb.jpg

post-540-0-91301800-1374095990_thumb.jpg

post-540-0-81800500-1374095994_thumb.jpg

For all my builds please visit my site at: http://www.AlexShipModels.com

 

Previous builds

 

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Alexandru,

 

Thanks for the informative comments & picutres. I will certainly consider new chisels - mine are standard size and probably would not work well with this smaller lathe.

 

Your posts look very well turned!

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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Unbelievable!!! Arrived almost overnight - of course, I'll have to wait until I'm back at the workshop on Sun. to open the box.

 

The Admiral has set strict regulations governing modeling tools & supplies - she states that the beatings will continue until compliance is 100%  :pirate41:

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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OK, so I've set it up and have some comments, etc.:

 

1) It was missing one of the two chuck keys, so I've written the U.S. distrib. (Prox-Tech, Hickory, NC) for a replacement. Not a major problem, just an inconvenience.

 

2) I do like the fact that you can use stock that is longer than the lathe is designed for since the headstock is tubular and the stock will just stick out the left end of the machine.

 

3) I'm not too keen on the assortment of collets - I could not find one that worked with 5/16" dia. stock.

 

4) Tool rest - cast aluminum or pot metal - will need to have a s/s (stainless steel) surface added (as I did on my Turncrafter Pro Mini-lathe rest) - the surface is not that hard and already tends to hang the chisel up as you move it along. I'm thinking of asking my machinist/modeler associate Ken fix up a new tool rest constructed out of brass/stainless.

 

Overall the lathe seems to run ok, has plenty of power - it's the incidentals that are rather irksome.

 

I did complete the Spencer mast for my Anchor Hoy the other night and am now working on the bowsprite on my Turncrafter Pro Mini Lathe since the length was more than the Proxxon could handle. I could have done one end and then the other, but this works out ok.

 

I did purchase the 5 chisel set, but it is still in transit, so I'm using sandpaper and one of my regular size small chisels until they arrive.

 

Alexandru - the 3 and 4 chucks - give me a bit more info on them if you can. I may purchase one of them, as well.

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, it appears I didn't thoroughly check my drawing and the Spencer Mast is NOT correct. My system of double dimensioning (real/scale) needed to be checked for errors and this mast had errors which transferred to the mast in the lathe - yada, yada - REDO!!!! The bowsprit (done on my midi-lathe) is complete and correct.

 

OK, the Proxxon lathe is now in Ken's hands and he's going to either replace the tool rest with a steel one or fabricate a s/s face for the orig. tool rest. I expect he will also go over the entire tool (as is his practice) and make adjustments or call me and ask questions as to this or that. So, in a week or so, I'll get the lathe back in tip-top shape ready to roll again.

 

Tonight I ordered a 4 jaw chuck from Proxxon - I had trouble from the git-go on centering the stock. This problem I hope will now be eliminated as a source of irritation on my part.

 

So, this next week will be spent figuring bulkheads with calculator and notepad for the Anchor Hoy.

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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I did not see the hint yet, but apparently one can buy another bed and add to the length.

 

As I have it too, I can tell that the Proxxon 27028 Drill chuck with spindle is a good addition, as it allows to make great centered holes into round materials.

 

Daniel

To victory and beyond! http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/

See also our german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling and History: http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/

Finest etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit) and other useful bits.

http://dafinismus.de/index_en.html

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I haven't seen any mention of a bed extension, but who knows? I may wait a while on that and try to learn the basics of this tool once it is back in the shop.

 

I would tend to agree with your comment re. the drill chuck/spindle for drilling centered holes - a good ability to have.

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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Hank: Blue Ensign had the idea of buying the spare part that is the bed (part no PRO000160) and making it as an extension. If you look at the back of the lathe's manual you'll see the part. The link to his post in his Pegasus build is here.

 

Tony

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