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Pt. V: Building V108 - The Hull

Intro to Card Models card models paper models v108

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#21
gjdale

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Me too! A new experience for me and I'm really enjoying following this. Definitely going on my bucket list!
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Grant
______________________________________________________________

Current builds:

 

1949 Chris Craft 19' Racing Runabout - Dumas - Radio

 

Previous builds: Bomb Vessel Granado, 1742 - Cross Section - ScratchbuildHMS Victory (Mamoli 1:90), Cutty Sark, Armed Pinnace, Bounty, Santa Maria

At another place: Stephenson's Rocket (OcCre 1:24) (click the title to follow the link)

 

 

In the Gallery: Lancia Armata 1803, Bomb Vessel Granada, 1742 Cross Section


#22
ccoyle

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Gonna finish up the hull skins now...

 

First thing to do is add the optional strips 16a to the two hull skins 14L and 14R if you have chosen this option.  Apply glue with a brush as described previously and work with about two to three centimeters of strip at a time.

 

Parts 13c are joiner strips, used for joining adjacent parts (parts 13 and 14 in this case).  The line along the base of the teeth needs to be scored so the teeth can be bent over.

1 joiner strips.JPG

 

Joiner strips can be problematic.  Problem number one in this instance is that the fourth tooth over from the aft end on the joiner strip falls right on the forecastle bulkhead.  This is going to add some unwanted thickness to that bulkhead.  Solution: remove the fourth tooth.  Actually, you'll want to cut the strip into two parts and remove the section that lies on the bulkhead entirely; I didn't, and this caused a semi-major problem later in the build sequence, as you'll soon see.  With this tutorial, you get the whole story, warts and all! :)

 

Mark the inside of the hull skin where the forecastle bulkhead hits it.

2 marking bulkhead location.JPG

 

Then glue the two pieces of joiner strip on either side of the mark, leaving room for the bulkhead (this picture shows the joiner strip as one piece).

3 fitted joiner strips.JPG

 

You are now ready to glue the two hull sides to the frame using the contact cement procedure described in the previous section.  Start at the joint with part 15 and work forward.  Here you can see that I let part 15 ride up a bit at the front end, resulting in a slight misalignment with part 14R.  That's life, kid!

4 misaligned skins.JPG

 

You really, really have to be careful with the contact cement.  After I got part 14L added to the hull, I noticed that the deck sloped ever so slightly downward on the port side, meaning part of 14L showed above the edge of the deck.  Trying to peel the hull skin away and realign will only make the problem worse, so that's the way it's going to stay.  That's why I colored the inside edge of part 14L.

5 skinning goof.JPG

 

I also wound up with a slight misalignment at the bow.  Probably I will touch this up with a little paint, but I'm going to wait until the model comes off the glass plate.  This will be a pretty minor touch-up job.  I will also touch-up the tiny bits of exposed cardboard hull base plate at that point.

6 slight misalignment at bow.JPG

 

Next we'll do the forecastle, which is one of the more onerous parts of the build.

 

 

 

 


Chris Coyle
Greenville, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco


#23
ccoyle

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The forecastle has its own diagram.  Study it carefully.

1 forecastle diagram.JPG

 

We'll start with part 17, the forecastle bulkhead.  Notice that the part has a number of joiner tabs and a fold line down the center.  Score the fold line and the bases of all the joiner tabs before cutting the part out.

2 forecastle bulkhead.JPG

 

Use PVA glue to install this part, because you may need to play around with the positioning before you get it properly placed.

3 forecastle bulkhead installed.JPG

 

Next comes part 18.  I have no idea what it is, but that's not unusual. :huh:   It has joiner tabs, too, but on a part this tiny the joiner tabs are actually more trouble than they're worth.  Go ahead and remove them.

4 part 18.JPG

 

Part 18 needs to be rolled into a half-pipe.  Moisten the back slightly and start the process by forming the tube around the handle of a small paintbrush or other narrow, cylindrical object.  You can finish the forming by gently rolling the part with your fingers.  Glue the part to the deck and forecastle bulkhead.

5 part 18 installed.JPG

 

Now it's time to do the forecastle deck.  First, the edges of the deck need to curl down slightly, more at the aft end and less at the front.  The decreasing diameter of an awl tip works well for this sort of job.  Take your time with this part -- one of the beauties of paper is that if you over-form the part at first, you can always undo it some.  Here's the formed deck ready to install:

6 forming the forecastle deck.JPG

 

Gluing the deck in is tricky.  To make things easier, we'll glue it down one side at a time.  I started on the starboard side.  Brush some PVA glue (PVA in case we need to reposition) along the joiner strip teeth and hull edge.  Attach the deck and gently press the edges of parts 13 and 14 together with your fingers until the glue grabs.  Should look something like this:

7 forecastle deck attached.JPG

 

Coming up next: A big boo-boo!

 


Chris Coyle
Greenville, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco


#24
donfarr

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Hi, This is so interesting to follow, is ther any othe glue to use except contact cement or CA. What about white school glue both rhe CA and contact cement set to quickly for this intermediate builder. Thanks Don Farr

#25
ccoyle

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OK, so I cheerfully moved on to attaching the port side of the forecastle deck and came across this:

8 yeah that is a problem.JPG

 

Yeah, that's a gap that didn't want to close, no matter how much I tried to force the two edges together.  The culprit in this case is the extra thickness added to the interior former by the joiner strips on either side of the hull.  You can avoid this problem by removing a bit of the joiner strip as I suggested in the previous post; I didn't have this option at this point, so I had to resort to Plan B, which was to slice away a tiny bit of the interior former in order to decrease the width.

9 fixing the problem.JPG

 

Afterwards, I was able to finish the task.  I started by tacking down the forward end of the bow and letting that joint cure, then gluing the deck and hull edges together in the same manner as on the starboard side.

10 finished forecastle deck.JPG

 

When I was working on the forecastle bulkhead, I wondered why the kit didn't include a part for doubling the hatch on the bulkhead.  Well, it does -- it just isn't next to part 17 on the parts sheet.  The necessary part is part 55 (note to self: it's indicated ON THE DIAGRAM -- always pay attention to the diagram! ;) ).

11 part 55 doubling hatches.JPG  

 

Note that this part has tiny rounded edges.  Don't try to cut these curves right away.  Instead, cut out the part rectangular, using a steel rule to keep the cuts straight.  Afterwards you can use the tip of your #11 blade to nibble away the remaining bit of white from the hatch.  Color the edges.

12 hatch cut rectangular.JPG

 

This part should be added to part 17 before the bulkhead is glued in, but in case you forget (as I did), the hatch location can fortunately still be easily reached at this point in the build.

 

There's also a support post to add at this point.  The diagram says to make the part from wire.  You can certainly use wire, but I chose to add an appropriate length of styrene rod.  I sprayed the rod with Krylon gray primer, which happens to be a shade of gray suited to the model.  Tack the bottom end of the post to the deck with a dab of CA glue (you want this to set quickly); when that dries, set the top end with PVA (you'll need to move the post around a bit until it looks perpendicular to the deck from all viewing angles).  The last part to add is part 13b, a sort of fascia.  I found that the barrel of a mechanical pencil was the right diameter for forming the curves in this part.  There's a locator mark on the part to indicate the center; tack this point to the center rear of the forecastle deck, then work your way bit-by-bit first to one side, then the other, alternating a dab of glue with pressing the fascia to the deck using a fine-tipped instrument (awl, tweezers, paintbrush handle, etc.).  Here's the completed post, fascia, and doubled hatch:

13 doubled hatch and support post.JPG

 

The basic hull is now done!  One thing to keep in mind is that many of the little goofs that pain you to look at during the build process will be far less visible when the model is viewed from a normal viewing distance.

14 stand-off viewing.JPG

 

See?  It's all a matter of perspective. :)

 

This concludes Part V.  Part VI will cover the building of deck structures.

 

 


Chris Coyle
Greenville, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco


#26
ccoyle

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Hi, This is so interesting to follow, is ther any othe glue to use except contact cement or CA. What about white school glue both rhe CA and contact cement set to quickly for this intermediate builder. Thanks Don Farr

Hi, Don.  There's a discussion of glues in Part IV.


Chris Coyle
Greenville, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco


#27
ccoyle

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Ack!  Almost forgot a few hull details.

 

Parts 21 are the propeller guards.  Small parts like these that have substantial cut-out areas are flimsy once removed from the sheet, so it helps to do some of the prep work while they're still on the sheet.  Start by coloring the reverse sides of the parts.  Then, cut out the inside white areas, but leave the outer edge attached.  You can then edge-color the interiors of the parts.  When the interiors are done, remove the parts from the sheet and color the outer edge.  Glue the guards to the hull with small amounts of PVA.  Note that the guards follow the curvature of the stern, so the left and right guards are not interchangeable.

1 propeller guards.JPG

 

The rudder (part 22) introduces a new kit feature, the two-sided part.

2 rudder.JPG

 

Score the fold line, then cut out the entire rectangle containing the part.  Apply glue to one-half of the back side of the part, then fold the rectangle in half.  You now have a rudder colored on both sides!  Remember, though, we're only using the part above the waterline, so go ahead and remove the red portion.  Color the trailing edge and then glue the rudder to the stern; there's a locator mark there to help you.  The rudder post will stick up above the deck just a little.

 

Here's the guards and rudder installed:

3 rudder and guards attached.JPG

 

Okay, now we can move on to deck structures!

 

On to Part VI: Building V108 - The Superstructure


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Chris Coyle
Greenville, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco


#28
Pete38

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Very interesting.....Going to have to get my printer up and going so I can get in on this...

 

will be downloading the post and saving them on my computer...

 

Thanks very much....very nice and detailed tutorial


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Triton Cross Section 1:32

 

SEE YA LATER

 

im-outta-here-bye-bye-smiley-emoticon.gi

 


#29
gjdale

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This really is a great tutorial Chris. The "warts and all" approach makes it seem that much more accessible to first timers.
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Grant
______________________________________________________________

Current builds:

 

1949 Chris Craft 19' Racing Runabout - Dumas - Radio

 

Previous builds: Bomb Vessel Granado, 1742 - Cross Section - ScratchbuildHMS Victory (Mamoli 1:90), Cutty Sark, Armed Pinnace, Bounty, Santa Maria

At another place: Stephenson's Rocket (OcCre 1:24) (click the title to follow the link)

 

 

In the Gallery: Lancia Armata 1803, Bomb Vessel Granada, 1742 Cross Section


#30
amateur

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Question: what do you use to colour the backside of the card?

Is that just plain watercolours?

 

Jan



#31
ccoyle

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Jan,

 

For this build, I'm using the same felt-tipped marker that I'm using for the edges.  For other builds, I have used acrylic paint matched to the color of the kit.


Chris Coyle
Greenville, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco


#32
qwerty2008

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On mine I used the second (thinner paper) set of printouts and just cut out the part twice then glue them back to back.


"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein.

#33
Reg

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Great presentation!  I wish I had access to it when I first started paper modeling.

 

Reg



#34
urb

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Excellent tips.

I'm battling with my first model, the card 'San Salvador' from the Maritime Museum, San Diego.

I'm coming to the conclusion that I should really regard this first one as the practice, then build once again.

It really is enjoyable and less stressful then I think building my 20 + year old still unopened  King of the Mississippi will be.

Looking forward to the next installment

Urb


King of the Mississipi yet to start!

San Salvador Card model started 18th June 2013


#35
Aop Aur

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Hello, Chris Coyle and everyone.

I am new here:). Your V-108 model looks superb! I hope I would get such paper modeling skill in the future... I am very interested in paper models for years, and did lots of models, as well as Digitalnavy's models, such as the V-108. The finished model was accidentally damaged (actually destroyed) by a child, and my repairing attempts were unsuccessful. I want to make one again, but could not download the pdf. file. One question: Has Digitalnavy remodeled its website yet? I frequently browse the web, now having light blue pages instead of grey, and the models cannot be downloaded:(. Most of the buttons "click HERE" cannot be clicked. So if the site became unavailable, may I ask you or anyone who have the V-108 pdf. file whether it will be possible for you to send me one? Any of the versions would be very appreciated.

Thank you very much.:)

Regards,
Aur.
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#36
ccoyle

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Hi, Aur. 

 

Unfortunately, Roman still has not updated his website - the link for V108 is still not active.  Since the website on the whole, however, is active, we must assume that Roman is still in business.  Even though the model is free, it is still his intellectual property, and for me or anyone else to distribute copies of it without the owner's permission would be a copyright infringement.

 

Maybe I'll shoot him an email and ask what his intentions are.


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Chris Coyle
Greenville, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco


#37
Aop Aur

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Hello Chris,

I am sorry for my late reply.
Hopefully, the V108 and all other ships links will be activated soon......all his paper models are superb.

Thank you in advance if you can ask him about that, too.


Sincerely,
Aur
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