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R/C ...WHAT TYPE OF GLUE SHOULD BE USED???


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10 replies to this topic

#1
Cap'n Rat Fink

Cap'n Rat Fink
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HI ALL,

   I AM PREPPING FOR MY FIRST EVER R/C SCRATCH BUILD. I PLAN ON USING ELMER WOOD GLUE FOR THE BUILD. I WOULD THINK THIS WOULD BE OK FOR BUILDING MY NEW BOAT. JUST AS LONG AS THE MODEL IS SEALED PROPERLY (AKA WATER SEALED).

 

TO YOU ALL EXPERIENCE R/C BUILDERS WOULD THIS BE OK OR SHOULD I USE A DIFFERENT TYPE OF GLUE???

 

I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE WITH R/C'n SO I WILL BE ASKING A LOT OF QUESTIONS AS I PROGRESS ALONG. MAINLY ON HOW TO PUT THE RUNNING GEAR TOGETHER, BUT THAT IS A BIT DOWN THE ROAD AS OF YET.

 

RIGHT NOW ALL I NEED IS THE GLUE SITUATION SETTLED. THANKS YOU ALL FOR LOOKING IN ON MY QUESTION......

 


Thank You all...

 

Mario

 

 

:piratetongueor4:  :piratetongueor4:

"Each of us is a mixture of some good and some not so good qualities. In considering one's fellow man it's important to remember the good things ... We should refrain from making judgments just because a fella happens to be a dirty, rotten SOB(biscuit) ;) "

 

 

 

My Builds....

 

BETTEAU WAR OF 1812     BOUNTY LAUNCH(bashed)    CHESAPEAKE BAY FLATTIE

 

THE SEA of GALILEE BOAT   VICTORIAN STEAM LAUNCH(bashed)    HOWARD CHAPELLE's CRABBING SKIFF

 

LADY KATHRINE 1812 SCHOONER


#2
qwerty2008

qwerty2008

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I use whatever glue that I would use on a static model but I make sure that I coat the entire hull in fiberglass resin to seal it.

Also the bigger the model the easier to RC. I built the HMS Sovereign of the Seas in 1/100 scale now I Know that was way to small hence why I stopped working on it and started on the much larger 1/20 scale Byzantium.

 

Lextin.


Edited by qwerty2008, 22 July 2013 - 07:54 PM.

  • Cap'n Rat Fink likes this
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein.

#3
JerryTodd

JerryTodd

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I use Tightbond III for wood-to-wood joints, and epoxy everywhere else.


  • avsjerome2003, Cap'n Rat Fink and qwerty2008 like this
Click a pic to go to that build log
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#4
Nirvana

Nirvana
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I have also used the Titebond III building a deck hatch for my T37, once all was dried I went over it with Z-span varnish from West Marine.

Put it the sink submerged for 24 hours, took it out had it air dry. No peeling and all was good.

 

Much easier and less messy than epoxy.

However, I think I still make sure to join all the wood parts for hull with epoxy.

Water and some glues doesn't work together. Experiment with other pieces first before building the hull.

Have fun and show us picture of your build. :piratebo5:


  • Cap'n Rat Fink likes this

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per

 

Ship modeling is a long lesson in patience - Me

It's better to get something done later than never

 

Denial is futile, MSW is here to stay.

 

 Therapy for Shipaholics

 

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden

Current: America by Constructo, Harley almost a Harvey , 18th Century Longboat, Solö Ruff

National Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry


#5
Brian the extraordinaire

Brian the extraordinaire
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some Titebond glues can re-soften if the join gets wet.  I would use a 2 part epoxy to be on the safe side. 


  • Cap'n Rat Fink likes this

#6
Cap'n Rat Fink

Cap'n Rat Fink
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THANK YOU ALL FOR THE INPUT. I HAVE PLENTY MORE QUESTION TO COME. SINCE I KNOW NOTHING OF R/C'n.....


Thank You all...

 

Mario

 

 

:piratetongueor4:  :piratetongueor4:

"Each of us is a mixture of some good and some not so good qualities. In considering one's fellow man it's important to remember the good things ... We should refrain from making judgments just because a fella happens to be a dirty, rotten SOB(biscuit) ;) "

 

 

 

My Builds....

 

BETTEAU WAR OF 1812     BOUNTY LAUNCH(bashed)    CHESAPEAKE BAY FLATTIE

 

THE SEA of GALILEE BOAT   VICTORIAN STEAM LAUNCH(bashed)    HOWARD CHAPELLE's CRABBING SKIFF

 

LADY KATHRINE 1812 SCHOONER


#7
FreekS

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The glue is not the only thing that's important. The hull, when wood, needs to be sealed as otherwise a scratch in the paint can lead to swelling of the hull. Epoxy or polyurethane resins are commonly used for that. Both will need final coatings to prevent discolouration due to UV light.

Freek

#8
Bernhard

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Question do you also varnish the inside of the boat, or is this to difficult?

#9
Cap'n'Bob

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Mix epoxy or polyester resin 50/50 with alcohol and paint the inside with that.  When the alcohol evaporates it will leave a thin layer of the epoxy which is more durable then varnish.

 

Bob


  • IgorSky likes this

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  Two Edwardian launches

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II

 

In the Gallary:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray


#10
Mike40

Mike40
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  • LocationKleppe Norway (southwest coast)

Has anyone used hot hide glue on their models?


Mike,

an American living in Norway

 

 

Current build:  Galley Washington - 1:48 - Scratch POF - NRG plans

 


#11
AndrewNaylor

AndrewNaylor
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"Git Rot"  (Hardware stores) is my go to. Fiberglass resin is quite thick where as GR is much thinner and socks right through the layers bonding every thing together forming a solid waterproof unit.

Andy


  • mtaylor and Canute like this

Current Build

HM Granado CC

Past builds

 HMS Chatham CC, HM Convulsion CC,  Duke William German Kit, Fair American LSS, The Wright Flyer MS





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