The Digital Navy V108 kit does not, with a few exceptions such as the bridge wings, include railings for the model, nor does it include any templates for railings. But hey, it's a free model, so we won't complain too much, right?
But that doesn't mean you can't add railings. Railings add a lot of subtle visual appeal to a card model, and there are four ways you can add them: 1) made from paper, much as the bridge wing railings (these create the illusion of open railings); 2) after-market laser-cut railings (to my eye these are overly stout-looking, but they come pre-cut obviously, and that's worth something); 3) photo-etched railings (the best-looking and also most expensive option); or 4) thread railings. I'm going to show you how to do option #4.
Start by downloading the free railings template at Paper Shipwright. You'll have to go through the whole checkout procedure, but relax - you don't get charged anything for the transaction. The Paper Shipwright template is in 1/250 scale, so you'll need to scale it up for 1/200 by printing at 125% of the original. At that size, you won't be able to print the template on one sheet of paper. What you do absolutely need is both ends of the template; I managed this by printing two copies of the template in landscape mode.
(L to R: full-sized template, middle portion enlarged 125%, two copies at 125% printed in landscape mode.)
Next you'll need to glue the templates onto some heavy-duty cardboard. I found that a case for liquid fabric softener worked well -- it's very rigid, because of course liquids are heavy. Use spray adhesive to glue down the templates. In this picture you can see that I've spliced the two landscape-mode copies together to make a single template. There's also a thread ladder template, which I won't be demonstrating, but which works in principle exactly like the railings template.
Next, remove the center portion of the template.
You're now ready to start wrapping thread. I use quilting thread, but regular thread will also work.
The template works like this: At each end are tic marks labelled two rail, three rail, and four rail. These are the marks you will use to align the railing threads. Notice that the two-rail marks actually consist of three marks - the bottom 'rail' is actually used to mount the railing to the model and doesn't count as one of the real-life rails.
On opposite sides of the template are drawn railings with the stanchions spaced at different intervals. The smallest interval is about 5.5 mm. The stanchion locator marks on the model are 6 mm apart. I don't know about you, but I'm not going to nit-pick over 0.5 mm, so I used the 5.5 mm spacing.
Start by wrapping the rails first. Use some tape to secure the thread right on top of the tic marks. Go ahead and use all four sets of two-rail marks - you'll get four lengths of railing as a result.
When the rails are done, cut the thread and secure the end with tape, taking care to ensure the thread stays taut and properly positioned. Next, add the stanchions in the same fashion. You have to kind of train yourself to concentrate only on the stanchion interval you want to use, otherwise you wind up with irregularly spaced stanchions. You can cut off the other stanchion spacing guides if you find them too distracting.
When all the rails and stanchions are wound, it's time to secure the joints by giving the entire railing set a coat of diluted white PVA glue. You can also try medium-cure CA, which will make the railings stiffer. I didn't use CA this time around because my bottle of medium-cure is on the old side and is more like medium-slow, which is too viscous for this job. Before brushing on the glue, I find it helpful to add some tension to the railings by sliding a piece of dowel or strip wood under the rail threads at either end of the template; this will push the rails up and against the stanchions. After the glue dries thoroughly, you can paint the railings in any manner you choose. I use gray spray primer. One thing to take note of here is that any thread will have some fuzz on it. Quilting thread has less fuzz, but it still has it. Spray painting causes build-up on the fuzz, and too many coats can make this build-up unsightly. It helps to pick off as much of the fuzz as you can before and/or after painting.
When the paint is dry, you can remove the finished railings from the template. Here's my set:
At this scale and template length, I got about four feet of railing, which should be more than enough to do the model, even if I mess up on some and have to try again.