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How do I make the slots in the Cathead?


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31 replies to this topic

#1
egkb

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Hi All,

 

I have a question and hope I've asked it in the correct place..

How do I make the 'slots' for the sheeves in the Cathead's, I understand the 'drilling 2 holes and joining the holes' method, alas it is the 'joining the 2 holes' that is causing the problem with this method.  I have even considered marking where the 'slots' go then cutting the end off the Cathead level with the outboard edge of the slots, then either sawing or filing down to the inboard end and gluing the 'cut-off' end back on.

 

Any and all suggestions welcomed, including the 'Forget about them and go for a pint instead' method !

 

Incidentally, my carpentry skills wouldn't pass muster (I just about know what a saw is :) ) so please please take this into account.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Eamonn

Apologies to Moderators if this is in the wrong section

 

 


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#2
lamarvalley

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Good day Eamonn.

First, the forget about it and go for the pint only works once. Sooner or later those catheads will be back before you so best to just deal with 'em :)

I do have wood experience although lots larger than these little boats but a cathead with slots was a first for me too. I drilled two holes at each end, and another two inbetween. I then found some really thin, really thin I say again, sanding cord. It is like a thread with abrasive stuck to it... and I inserted that in one hole and slowly pulled up and down from the first hole to the second and so on until I had a slot. The first time it looked poor, second time it looked average and by the time i was done I was satisfied. Next time, probably even better,... maybe ;)

So, there you go,,, the way i did it. :P
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#3
HSM

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I have some very small carving chisels. I make 2 holes and then cut out the wood between them to represent the sheave spaces. Looks pretty good, but I also really like the sanding cord idea, if one could find the right diameter.


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From about as far from the ocean as you can get in North America!


#4
egkb

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Thanks Randy and HSM for getting back so quickly.. really like the Sanding Cord method, and the idea of leaving some wood behind to represent sheeves (though on re-reading I think I may have mis-read your suggestion HSM but my mistake might work too:) ) I shall try both and see which works for my limited ability (might even be able to combine both suggestions and use the 'cord' to sand down to a fake 'sheeve' Hmmmm might be on to something there)

 

Thanks again guys

 

Eamonn


Current Build   :  HM Schooner Ballahoo

In the Pipeline :  HM Cutter Sherbourne, HM Mortar Convulsion, Emma C Berry & C18th English Longboat.. Eventually That Is ^_^

Almost There  :  Bounty


#5
Chuck

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First connect the tool holes by defining the slot....you can do this by cutting some shallow lines with a sharp blade from one hole to the other.  This will help keep the slot neat with some sharp edges as you remove the material between the two stop cut lines.  Sharp chisels and small rasps or files are a must as well when trying to round off the sheave.

 

Chuck

 

simsheave.jpg

 

simsheave1.jpg

 

fixedblocks1.jpg

 

 

 


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Chuck Passaro - MSW Admin 

 

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#6
kruginmi

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I have had lmiited success with the drill holes method.  It depends on the hardness of the wood and the scale you are working in (and if you can drill straight!).  I usually opt for cutting the end off (or cutting to length minus the end cap), making the slots (easier with three sides exposed) then putting a cap on.  For the cathead this also helps if you are planning on decorating the end piece.

 

On my Druid I had to do this for my chesstrees and was very successful with the cutting out and putting a cap on.  It is a case by case basis.

 

Cheers,

Mark


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#7
egkb

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Thanks Chuck,

 

This is exactly the result I had in mind by combining the methods of Randy and HSM (even though I mis-read him), I was thinking of feeding the Sanding Cord through both holes and gently pulling it back and forth.. I shall put those needle Files and small chisels on my 'To Get List'.

 

Model Ship World rocks

 

Eamonn


Current Build   :  HM Schooner Ballahoo

In the Pipeline :  HM Cutter Sherbourne, HM Mortar Convulsion, Emma C Berry & C18th English Longboat.. Eventually That Is ^_^

Almost There  :  Bounty


#8
egkb

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Hey again Mark, fancy meeting you here :)

 

The 'cutting the end off' was the direction I was heading prior to discovering MSW as drilling straight was indeed an issue.. but I think it is about time I learnt to do this skill and at least try to live up to the standards on display here, there is this chap bashing a 1850's clipper called the Lady Anne that I'm following, and his standard is to be envied :) so it's time to up pick up my abilities I think.

 

E


Current Build   :  HM Schooner Ballahoo

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#9
Chuck

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I find that drilling half way through on one side and then flipping it over and drilling from the other side works well.  The bit will meet in the middle and it is easier to keep the hole straight.  You also dont get any ragged edges where the bit works through the other side.


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Chuck Passaro - MSW Admin 

 

Current build - HMS Winchelsea - POB scratch build

                            HM Cutter Cheerful - POB scratch build

       Royal Barge - POF scratch

 

www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com

 


#10
egkb

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Thanks again Chuck, am looking forward to giving these a go in the next few days, I won't require the cathead until then (and other deck furniture has to go in place before I can determine it's exact placing, my model didn't come with comprehensive plans, just sometimes vague photos and text which can leave a lot to be desired, fun though as long as I plan ahead... learned that the hard way!)

 

Eamonn


Current Build   :  HM Schooner Ballahoo

In the Pipeline :  HM Cutter Sherbourne, HM Mortar Convulsion, Emma C Berry & C18th English Longboat.. Eventually That Is ^_^

Almost There  :  Bounty


#11
Jim Lad

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Eamonn,

 

I use Chuck's method.  If you drill from both sides you get perfectly centred holes and if you've gone a bit astray the problem will be in the centre of the work and not showing on the outside.  For filing out the slot to make the dummy sheaves I use watchmakers round escapement files.  If you go to a jewellers supply shop you'll find them down to really tiny sizes.

 

John


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#12
egkb

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Thanks for that John, seems to be the way to go. A friend of mine dropped in a very very fine bladed saw (think he called it a jewellers saw) to join up the drilled holes, so I have lots of great ideas to try out.

Wish me luck :)

 

Eamonn


Current Build   :  HM Schooner Ballahoo

In the Pipeline :  HM Cutter Sherbourne, HM Mortar Convulsion, Emma C Berry & C18th English Longboat.. Eventually That Is ^_^

Almost There  :  Bounty


#13
egkb

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Hi All,

Thanks for all the advice, I used a combination of the above suggestions i.e. Drilling, sawing, chiselling and filing! Phew

Result is by no means perfect, rather ragged by the standards on display in MSW, but sure we have to start somewhere (that's my excuse... and I'm sticking to it)
That said I'm fairly pleased, and if any of my friends look too closely and comment they'll get a 'flick around the ear' :)

Eamonn

Catheads.jpg
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Current Build   :  HM Schooner Ballahoo

In the Pipeline :  HM Cutter Sherbourne, HM Mortar Convulsion, Emma C Berry & C18th English Longboat.. Eventually That Is ^_^

Almost There  :  Bounty


#14
trippwj

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Very nice work, Eamonn.  Just remember - the only standard on here that matters is that to which your own skills and experience allow you to achieve.  These came out quite nicely, though. 

 

Please pardon me for not digging around - what vessel are you building?


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Wayne

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#15
egkb

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Hi Wayne,

Thanks for the 'vote of confidence', The model is a 1:46 Bounty that came as part of a 'Building the Bounty' weekly magazine spread over 2 years (about 13 years ago) if you rummage about in my post 'New to MSW' circa 20th Aug you will find a few pikkies of her, I am on the masting at the mo. I recently picked up the Sherbourne kit and the comparison in build information is staggering (Sherbourne had actual Plans for a start, Bounty has photos & text, which at first sounds great until you need to get down to the 'nitty-gritty' of where stuff goes and how it interferes with later stuff, am convinced they used photos from at least 2 different builds to create their instructions, makes life very interesting though) :)
Thanks for the inquiry Wayne, and all the likes posted.

Eamonn
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Current Build   :  HM Schooner Ballahoo

In the Pipeline :  HM Cutter Sherbourne, HM Mortar Convulsion, Emma C Berry & C18th English Longboat.. Eventually That Is ^_^

Almost There  :  Bounty


#16
Jim Lad

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There you go, Eamonn, piece of cake, really! ;)  :)

 

John



#17
egkb

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Hi John,

 

In a word... 'AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH' :)

Am curled-up rocking back and forward in a darkened room as we speak making gurgling sounds.

 

Eamonn

 

Thanks again for all the help and encouragement folks.


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Current Build   :  HM Schooner Ballahoo

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Almost There  :  Bounty


#18
sudomekh

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these holes ... easy to do milling cutter or drill press

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#19
tkay11

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In case you're getting into the whole files thing, there was a link in MSW1 which I found useful for explanation and guidance. It is http://www.2mm.org.u...g2000/files.htm. The site is at the '2mm Scale Association' -- an apt title.

 

Tony


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#20
Duffer

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Hi Eamonn, 2 other methods not mentioned above are:

1. don't drill any holes but laminate thin strips of wood together and leave a slot or two where you want the sheaves to be.  You will need to clean up the lamination after the glue dries, but you will have perfectly squared slots.

2. if you have access to a mill, then that will give you square sides whose corners can be easly cleaned by filing.

 

Actual sheaves can then be installed. 

If your scale is small, then Chuck's method is the better.

 

Good luck and have fun.                       Duff


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