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The best to transcribe


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Ahoy, Mates :D

 

I am curious to know what the best product is to transcribe measurements to wood.

 

Currently I use a refillable lead pencil with a 0.5 refill. I find the line to be too wide for my needs. I usually measure in 32nds occasionally splitting them (64ths). I also tend to make a lot of corrections and erasing with this pencil is just not working.

 

 

Thank you  :)

 

 On with the Show.... B) 

 

  J.Pett

 

“If you're going through hell, keep going” (Winston Churchill)

 

Current build:  MS Rattlesnake (MS2028)

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/45-model-shipways-rattlesnake-ms2028-scale-164th/

 

Side Build: HMS Victory: Corel

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3709-hms-victory-by-jpett-corel-198/?p=104762

 

On the back burner:  1949 Chris Craft Racer: Dumas

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/939-1949-chris-craft-racer-by-jpett-dumas-kit-no-1702/

 

Sometime, but not sure when: Frigate Berlin: Corel

http://www.corel-srl.it/pdf/berlin.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

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I just use a standard run-of-the-mill #2 wooden pencil.   I have a pencil sharpener handy. If I need a finer line than the sharpener gives me, I hone it on a rough piece of paper.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Jeff

 

In progress:
Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Company -1/2" scale

USS Constitution - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76

HMS Granado - CAF Model - 1:48

HMS Sphinx - Vanguard

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Ahoy Mates :D

 

Thank you for your responses

 

I went out and purchased a few pencils similar to what has been recommended and ran some tests.

 

What I found was that for the thinnest (neatest) line the 4H was the best. I could get the finer line with the HB (standard #2) but it was more work to keep the pencil that sharp. I used a regular pencil for the test and applied Marks tip to shape them on some paper.

Edited by JPett

 On with the Show.... B) 

 

  J.Pett

 

“If you're going through hell, keep going” (Winston Churchill)

 

Current build:  MS Rattlesnake (MS2028)

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/45-model-shipways-rattlesnake-ms2028-scale-164th/

 

Side Build: HMS Victory: Corel

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3709-hms-victory-by-jpett-corel-198/?p=104762

 

On the back burner:  1949 Chris Craft Racer: Dumas

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/939-1949-chris-craft-racer-by-jpett-dumas-kit-no-1702/

 

Sometime, but not sure when: Frigate Berlin: Corel

http://www.corel-srl.it/pdf/berlin.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

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I use 4H and 6H pencils sharpened and honed to a fine point. I prefer the harder lead as it produces less graphite dust.

I also use colored pencils for special markings such as planking butt joints on bulkheads, but they tend to be pretty soft and cant hold a point, so are only useful for reference marking, not precision marking.

 

Ken

Current Build: Authentic Hannah Kit Bash

Pending Continuation: Sea of Galilee Boat

 

Completed Build:  MS AVS

On Shelf: AL Independence, Blue Jacket Alfred

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I use a 9H lead in a mechanical pencil, sharpened every other time I use it. The finer the line the more precise the work. The best is to scribe lines with an exacto knife, or a marking knife used to mark out dovetails in full size construction. A scribed line lets you register a chisel precisely on the line for really precise work.

 

Mark

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Ahoy Mates :D

 

Thank you all for your responses.

 

Mark (SJ) I will keep my eye out for the 9H

 

After spending the last two days marking my basswood hull for planking, yea I am slow and had quite a few "redos" but I did find "for me" the harder pencil (4H) to be much better for the task then a standard #2 (HB). I did find uses for the #2 but the work was much easier with the 4H. The fine line was easier to maintain and there was considerably less smudging. It was also easier to erase and for me that was a big deal. I will post some pics in my log.

Edited by JPett

 On with the Show.... B) 

 

  J.Pett

 

“If you're going through hell, keep going” (Winston Churchill)

 

Current build:  MS Rattlesnake (MS2028)

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/45-model-shipways-rattlesnake-ms2028-scale-164th/

 

Side Build: HMS Victory: Corel

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3709-hms-victory-by-jpett-corel-198/?p=104762

 

On the back burner:  1949 Chris Craft Racer: Dumas

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/939-1949-chris-craft-racer-by-jpett-dumas-kit-no-1702/

 

Sometime, but not sure when: Frigate Berlin: Corel

http://www.corel-srl.it/pdf/berlin.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

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Art stores typically have these specialty pencils.  the H and the B talk about how Hard or soft the lead is. Typically a softer lead will give a darker line and a harder lead will give a lighter colored line.... in addition to what you already discovered...soft lead loses its point quicker (because it allows more material transfer per stroke) and hard lead keeps its point longer.  the scale goes like  this Hardest  to softest   9H 3H 2H H F HB B 2B 3B 9B (I left a lot out since you can figure out the way the scale works). A yellow, #2 pencil is actually typically a HB or an F. 

Here is an illustration. I looked all over the page and  there was no copyright info so hopefully its okay to link this photo

lead-hardness.gif

You might also want to note that while you are getting the longer lasting tip from a H# pencil you also run the risk of scoring your wood more since the pencil will be significantly harder than the boxwood.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-Sarah

Current Build:

Krabbenkutter CUX-87

Harriet Lane

Fishcutter GO-38

 

In the Wings:

Corel Victory Cross section

 

Completed Build:

USS Missouri minimissouri.jpgHMS Bounty's Jolly Boat thumbnail.jpg Peterboro Canoe tiny.jpg

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Ahoy, Sarah :D

 

Thank you for posting and most importantly pointing out a few mistypes in my posts regarding the correct code for the #2 pencil. I have gone back and corrected these in my posts as not to confuse others.

 On with the Show.... B) 

 

  J.Pett

 

“If you're going through hell, keep going” (Winston Churchill)

 

Current build:  MS Rattlesnake (MS2028)

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/45-model-shipways-rattlesnake-ms2028-scale-164th/

 

Side Build: HMS Victory: Corel

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3709-hms-victory-by-jpett-corel-198/?p=104762

 

On the back burner:  1949 Chris Craft Racer: Dumas

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/939-1949-chris-craft-racer-by-jpett-dumas-kit-no-1702/

 

Sometime, but not sure when: Frigate Berlin: Corel

http://www.corel-srl.it/pdf/berlin.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

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