Nice discussion. I did find a tutorial by Frank here at Scribd. You can download if you join.
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Thanks both. Paul, it looks like a paid membership is the only way to download the document although it seems it can be readily reviewed online and Tony I am not sure where the article is buried in the rest. In either case as I had mentioned, I printed the article when it was available with NRG. I suppose it must be a copyrighted article now. Nevertheless both links are valuable references.
Mark, if you are monitoring this thread, I am looking for a link that used to work (because I downloaded a paper copy several months ago, but would like to refer it to someone) - which I believe you posted on some other thread (http://modelshipworl...jack-nastyface/) - but it doesn't seem to work anymore. The article was called "planking a hull - a tutorial", by Keith Harris (jack nastyface). Searching the site doesn't seem to get me any further. I found it to be an excellent article on spiling. Apologies if I am overlooking something.
I have reposted the tutorial at the following link on MSW:
It was created in partnership with Keith, and used by permission.
Neither should a ship rely on one small anchor, nor should life rest on a single hope.
I am looking for recommendations for completing my planking process. I have planked the hull of my Niagra (successfully, whew, first POB), and I have been sanding for a smooth finished surface. But, there still remain small cracks between planks in many places, usually caused by the slight irregularities in the manufacture of the wood. I plan to paint the hull, but I need to seal these first. I have tried diluted DAP Plastic Wood, but it is to coarse to do a good job.
What do the experts recommend for this job. There must be some simple way, some commonly available wood filler which works best on cracks. So, how do I best repair gaps in seams?
Thanks in advance...
Edited by milosmail, 15 November 2016 - 03:39 AM.
San Jose, CA
I am no expert but, what works for me is a product by 3M "wood filler". I got it at Lowes home improvement. It is sandable and stainable. It comes in different sizes. I would recomend the larger size because the smaller size only has 1.3oz. and the next size up has 4.0oz, (over 3 times as much as the small size) for about twice as much price.
"All I Really Need To Know I Learned In Kindergarten" by Robert Fulghum
Since you are planning on painting the hull you have several options. You can use an epoxy crack filler (like Bondo). You can use a wood filler. I have never used DAP but have had good luck with the Elmer's product line. It is going to be coarser than wood unless you keep using finer sandpaper to smooth it over. Typically I will sand down to 400 grit. Finally, you can make a paste of sawdust and dilute white glue and use it like Spackle to fill in the cracks.
For your next model consider slightly tapering the plank edge to compensate for the convexity of the hull. That elimates a lot of those unsightly gaps. As they say...been there, done that.
Director Nautical Research Guild
Member Nautical Research and Model Society
Current Build: HMS Atalanta-1775 - 1:48 scale
3M woodfiller seems to work the best for me, as I can force it into small cracks with my finger. Bondo would leave a smooth surface, with no detail. I would like to leave a hint of planking after hull is sprayed.
By the way, DAP dries too fast to manipulate, even when diluted with acetone.
Yes, I did bevel planks where the frames turned sharply, but irregularities in planking stock have caused the bulk of the problems. This kit is 20 years old, and perhaps newer ones have higher quality machined planks. I can see why some of you make your own planks as a result.
On to finishing some details on the hull, priming, and then set it aside for a while to work on deck and ships boats.
I thought I would try making the deck in a similar fashion referenced elsewhere. I will make a template, cut out a piece of 1/64 birch for a substrate, cut out the nibbling strakes, make sure fit is good, and then plank that. At least that is the plan.
San Jose, CA
Between Dirk De Bakker & Greg Brooker piece and Chuck Passaro's seminal "planning" system, a true treasure trove of info.
There is one piece I dont think is covered, or it if is it didn't click with me, but what are the methods, wisdoms, or guidelines as far as deciding where to stop the garbord? There are plenty of warnings about not putting it too far forward, but how does one figure out exactly where it should end at the stem/bow?
Edited by Sunsanvil, 15 December 2016 - 04:24 PM.
The easiest way is to lay the garboard into position, and then lay the next plank such that it runs well forward of the garboard (don't glue any planks yet). Then draw a line using the second (top) plank as a guide on the garboard. The garboard should end just as the stem starts curving upward.
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me
Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0
USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War (Gallery) Build Log
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