Soldering Pad

[Nirvana]

I have on several encounters has issues with soldering, especially when it comes to add a third  to first part with out un-soldering  the first part.

There are so many times when soldering include several parts.

How have you solved this problem?

I have found a soldering pad from Micromark I like to try out, but wonder if any one has tried the before?

I am very happy to make an order to try it out, if not and make a review.

[Q A's Revenge]

A heat shunt stops parts getting too hot if that's what you mean?

 

http://www.maplin.co.uk/heat-shunt-3930

[Nirvana]

Per,

I am using the MM soldering pad and it is good, first of all with those T-pins (but you can also use dressmakers' pins). The thing is unfortunately that the surface will burn and some burnt residue will peel off it - afterwards the surface is not smooth anymore. I have been using it for years though and still have a few unburnt areas on it. 

For (hard) soldering of more than one itemsthe classic method is to use solders with different melting points, using the highest melting point first and down from there. Or steel clips etc. can be used to isolate the already soldered area from overheating.

Practice makes perfect!

Janos

Janos,

 

I am intending to use it both with regular soldering iron but also with the micro butane solder.

 

I will try to give MM a call tomorrow to hear more about the issue of burned areas, and areas that peels off. I will get back to you.

Thank you for the feed back.

[WackoWolf]

Nirvana,

 

     Please let us know what you find out from MM. I also have there pad and will be waiting to hear back from you about this matter. Thanks

[NMBROOK]

Other than heatsinks,I found the biggest improvement to my soldering was to invest in one of the electronic soldering stations.Because the temperature at the tip is always kept constant it allows you to do each joint quicker than with a normal iron.They are fairly inexpensive now and can replace several different size irons as different tips are available and without looking I am sure mine goes all the way up to 440 deg c

Kind Regards Nigel

[WackoWolf]

NMBROOK,

 

    Which station do you have? Could you post some pictures of it. Thanks

[NMBROOK]

Hi Joe I have a cheapy from Maplins (do you have Maplins in the US? you can tell I am not very well traveled) it is their own brand and cost probably about 50 dollars in your money.I will take a pic and post it if it's any use to you

 

Kind Regards Nigel

Edited November 25, 2013 by NMBROOK

[bushman32]

I started using resistance soldering and I love it. I can even use it to solder metal on plastic models. Micro Mark sells a couple of units, one of which is very economical. I only recommend if you plan on doing a lot of soldering though.

   Ron W.

[WackoWolf]

Nigel,

 

    I am guessing they are like Harbor Freight here in the US. I will check them out the next time I stop in there. I will also give Micro Mark a look to see what they have, even though I know you can get it somewhere else cheaper. Heck I can stop at Hobby Lobby also.

Now I just have to remember to stop there LOL.

[NMBROOK]

Joe,

Like I say it is only a cheapy,you can spend a small fortune on one.I read the reviews and thought I would give it ago having burnt out two 60w conventional irons.Works like a dream,can't fault it.

Kind Regards Nigel

[src]

Per

I have never tried resistance soldering so I cant comment there, but has anybody looked into or used soldering pans?

WWW.ottofrei.com/7-Rotating-Soldering-Pan-with-2-lbs-Black-Soldering-Grain.html

I have the pad from MM and like it but I am wondering if this might work instead of the pad?

Just a thought DrPer.

Sam

[Modeler12]

Nirvana touched on using a torch to solder. Here are a couple pictures of a technique I picked up from a lady who made jewelry using silver soldering and a small torch.

 

The pictures show three joints using bronze wire vertically, steel wire at the bottom and two pieces of brass wire above that. The bottom joints were made by using my roll of silver solder directly on the joint as I heated that. The top was made by cutting a few small pieces of solder off the roll, putting one of those underneath the joint to be made (along with a dab of flux, the white dot).

As I heated the joint the silver wicked up and made the connection.

I have used this to solder the loop of an eye bolt, but it is tricky and requires some practice.

Notice also that I use a piece of flat stone instead of a 'soldering pad'. The pliers are just to hold the bronze wire steady.

[Modeler12]

Let me add one more picture of an eye in the same piece of brass wire. I used a very tiny piece of solder and still had a bit too much.

One thing I have to be careful with is that I don't get flux on or too close to the eye. It will fill up with the solder very easily.

 

Here is the same eye piece made into a hook. Again notice the excess solder. But a little filing should take care of that.

 

PS Interesting idea Mark. I assume that it would have to be a raw potato, not a baked one. And since this is Thanksgivings Day, I would also assume a yam or sweet potato might work also.

Edited November 28, 2013 by Modeler12

[mtaylor]

I've not tried it yet, but it was suggested elsewhere that a potato can be used to hold parts and also double as a heatsink.  I've used clay before, but the potato idea is interesting.

[grsjax]

A piece of fire brick makes a good pad and metal hair clips (the kind that have a spring and long jaws) make pretty good heat sinks for small parts.