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Table Saw Hand Safety


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Are there work gloves that would protect my hands from potential table saw damage?

 

In the past, I have used protective gloves when sculpting with knives and chisels but I am not sure they would offer much protection on a table saw. I understand about using push sticks etc. but I wanted to check and see if anyone knew of more effective protection that would allow me to work without hindrance.

 

My wife is buying me a mini table saw for my birthday and asked me to check.

 

Richard,

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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Richard,

 

Jud gave the best advice, in my opinion.  I can't add a thing to it.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

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CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Excellent advice.  I would add:

 

Always unplug the saw when changing blades.

Never operate the saw after having alcohol - even one beer or one glass of wine.

Use a wood block to keep the wood against the fence (see Jeff Hayes notes at http://www.hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation-3.php)

 

and, as in anything else worthwhile, practice.  In time you'll understand the saw's capabilities and limits, and which blade to use for different woods and thicknesses (I've burned a few blades before I learned that!)

 

Enjoy!

 

Frank

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Hi.

I think the best advice has been said. But I will add my rules to it.

No one is allowed to disturb you until the machine is stopped.( family rule )

Never push the machine beyond its limits.

Keep blades and edges sharp. ( blunt blades means you are pushing harder to feed the timber )

Keep work place tidy and clear from other bits that can obstruct the work path (out feed ) .

 

That's my little bit to safety and works for me.

After being a Toolmaker and using some very big mills and lathes that could do some real damage .. TAKE NO RISKS is my statement.

 

Regards Antony.

Best advice ever given to me."If you don't know ..Just ask.

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A basis rule of safety when handling a table saw, mill, lathe etc.  Do not wear gloves or a ring. No loose sleeved shirts.  These tools can be dangerous. when you do not follow the rules and common sense.

David B

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Yeah, I wouldent risk it. Keep using that push stick for sure! I know that there are some pretty heavy duty gloves out there but nothing for what you are asking for. Stay safe

Regards, Scott

 

Current build: 1:75 Friesland, Mamoli

 

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I like to add one more. If your saw has interchangeable inserts for the blade, be sure to use the one with the narrowest slot.

I was using the tilted blade for some bevel cuts, didn't change the inserts when I went back to straight cutting, had too big a gap and  . . .

 

the rest is history for my left index finger.

Jay

 

Current build Cross Section USS Constitution  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10120-cross-section-forward-area-of-the-uss-constitution/

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'A picture is worth a  . . . . .'      More is better . . . .

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Richard

 

If you don't have much or any experience on a table saw I would advise you to get a book on table saw operation and safety.  Also most of the woodworking stores like Woodcraft offer classes on such.  

 

Gloves are a bad idea.  While they may protect you while carving they won't with a saw.  They are actually more dangerous than not wearing anything because they can get caught on the blade and suck your hand into it just like loose clothing and jewelry.

 

There is a list of do's and don'ts in our manual.  Most importantly is to pay attention to what you are doing and not get distracted especially on repetitive cuts.  ALWAYS,  ALWAYS use a push stick and push the stock completely past the blade till it falls off the back of the saw.   

 

Small saws like ours are no less dangerous than large saws,  10" or better.  The only difference is if you do cut yourself the doctor is going to tell you that it's a nice clean cut.   

 

regards

Jim

Model Machines

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Jim,

Have you considered designing and selling a push stick scaled properly for your saw?  I also think there would be a market for a DVD demonstrating the use of your saw including safety tips. I found one on Amazon for the Preac. It's basic but instructive.

thanks to everyone for useful comments.

Best

Jaxboat B)

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I agree with the general tips about safety, especially the one about not being interrupted until the saw is turned off and the other one about unplugging the saw when changing blades. I personally do not like foot switches.

 

I also prefer to use push boards rather than push sticks. I can and do make them as I need them, they are a disposable tool as far as I am concerned.

 

The ones I make look like this

 

post-202-0-04431100-1389226022_thumb.jpg

 

They vary in thickness to suit the work.

 

I would agree that glove are something to avoid.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Jax

 

Most guys just use a piece of scrap for the push stick.  I usually use a piece that's lying next to the saw that I cut wrong previously.  As far as the video goes I can barely figure out my phone if that gives you any indication of when I'll have a video

 

regards

Jim

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I appreciate all the advice. It is very helpful. I have ordered a couple of books to help me familiarize myself with the basics. Sadly, there are no stores with classes within 50 miles so I will have to self educate via books and YouTube videos.

 

I have another question. One of the things I will be cutting early on are 1/16 x 1/8 inch planks. I intend to start with pre dimensioned sheet wood such as that available from HobbyMill. I am wondering just how difficult that small a size will be. Will ripping planks be a basic task or something very advanced? Are there any jigs or special accessories that will be required... or even helpful?

 

Again, thanks to all for your thoughts.

 

Richard

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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Richard have a look at this thread It covers cutting slices off a wide plank.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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I agree with all that has been said here but may I add a further thought?

 

Good machinery usually has good guards but they sometimes get in the way. Bad guards can be as hazardous as no guard at all. With this in mind designing and building jigs for specific tasks on saw tables, band saws and router/shaper tables can be employed to very good and safe effect. The one golden rule is this.....part of your jig should always be between the blade and your fingers.

 

Mike.

Previous Build: LA gun deck cross section.
Previous Build: Lancia Armata. Panart 1:16
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Shelved awaiting improved skills:

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Tender Avos.

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To add my 2 cents, I've been using full size woodworking saws most of my life.  They are as safe as you make them.  My number one safety rule: never, never, NEVER wear any loose clothing around the cutting area. This applies not only to saws, but drills, routers, mills, all of them.  Loose clothing can get pulled into a blade faster than you can ever react to and it will be a horrible injury.

 

Table saws are safe as long as you use them safely.  It's been a long time since I read any table saw books but I'm sure they all talk about safety.  If you follow common sense safety rules, always use pushsticks, and start using the saw slowly to get a feel for it you'll be fine.  Don't grab a piece of 8/4 (2") hard maple and run it through using a crappy blade for your first cut.  All that will do is scare you and make a bunch of smoke (yes, hardwood will smoke on a saw from to fast a feed rate, excess friction and dull blades).  Once you get a few simple cuts under your belt your confidence will increase and you can move on to more involved cuts.

 

Google "table saw kick back" and I'm sure you'll get some eye opening horror stories, and 99.9% of them were probably caused by doing something stupid...

 

NEVER, NEVER crosscut anything using the miter gauge that is riding against the rip fence all the way through the blade.  This is kickback no-no #1.  You may get away with it once, or a hundred times (if your lucky) but eventually it will happen and it's DANGEROUS!

 

Use the most expensive blades you can afford.  For 10" table saws expect to pay 75-100$ for the good ones.  Don't expect a 25$ cheapo to cut like a 75$ blade.  They won't!  Especially when you move to hardwoods.  And, dull blades are DANGEROUS!

 

Use them as designed, think safely, and you'll be fine. If anything you're about to do makes your butt pucker up, stop and think of another way - even if it means using a hand tool.  

Edited by cookster

Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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Woodcraft sells a nice 10" full size saw called Saw Stop. It has sensors in the blade that fling a block of aluminum into the blade ,stopping it instantly. They're spendy but effective. I saw one demonstrated with a hot dog. Impressive. You gotta rebuild the saw after and get a new stop block. Bill

Edited by reklein

Bill, in Idaho

Completed Mamoli Halifax and Billings Viking ship in 2015

Next  Model Shipways Syren

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Great suggestions from all. Helps my feel more confident. I have purchased a book that shows the basics and also has a number of models for different push sticks and other jigs which should be helpful.

Richard

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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I started reading and, of course, that raised as many questions as it answered. The book is for full size table saws so I am not sure if it is applicable to the miniature ones we are discussing.

 

For ripping stock, it says that a "splitter" at the end of the blade is critical for reducing kickback and increasing safety. I do not see any on the pictures of table saws I have seen thus far. I would appreciate any thoughts.

 

Richard

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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The Saw Stop may be very effective. However it would, I think, encourage the user to be somewhat cavalier in the use of the saw. Vigilance is a far better way - and cheaper, too!

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Druxey,

I was referring to a "splitter". It is a fin like part standing at the blade output side that appears to keep the wood separated after the cut when ripping.

I am not sure if I correctly understand what you are referring to with a Saw Stop.

I appreciate your thoughts.

 

Richard.

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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Bill, the 'Saw Stop' is another gismo that may help but, in my opinion, does not solve the issue of being careful. In fact it may cause the user to think all is well because of this thing. In addition, before the blade really stops a lot of blood and tissue may have been lost.

 

I am a firm believer in several of the issues raised here (and that goes for large or small saws, including band saws):

1. Know your equipment. Be sure the blade is sharp, but don't be afraid to touch it while standing still.

2. Use it as directed and learn how to use it better than the instructions show.

3. By all means use any way you can to keep your fingers out of the way (be it push, pull, or any other means) to slide the work piece through the blade.

4. Let the blade do the work and don't force the issue.

5. Experiment with rather large pieces and find out how far you can go without being afraid.

6. Enjoy the results.

 

If all fails, make sure there is a doctor close by.

Been there, done that. But I am still using the same saw with a smile.

 

 

 

Jay

 

Current build Cross Section USS Constitution  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10120-cross-section-forward-area-of-the-uss-constitution/

Finished USS Constitution:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/103-uss-constitution-by-modeler12/

 

'A picture is worth a  . . . . .'      More is better . . . .

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Richard, the splitter would be for ripping boards that have internal stresses in them that cause the board to compress in on itself as the cut leaves the blade.  Kind'a hard to describe if you've never seen it.  Imagine someone pressing the 2 cut halves together (in effect clamping on the blade) while being cut. This will bind the blade and if severe enough could kick back.  Go get a piece of cheap 1x12 pine shelving and rip it in half and I can almost guarantee it will pinch the blade to some degree.  However, this is nothing horrible, it happens all the time.

 

The other method of kickback would be if the piece being ripped (the 2 halves) were allowed to be pulled into the blade as they exited the blade.  If they were caught just right by the blade, they could kick back.  BUT, if you use proper technique when ripping - ie, make sure both pieces are pushed fully by and away from the blade (it takes both hands for this BTW) then there's not much chance for kick back.

 

There's also the case of ripping off small width pieces, sometimes they float around the table near the blade and CAN kickback, but more likely they just glance the blade and it harmlessly kicks them away.  If they're close to the blade and won't move away from it, cut the saw off BEFORE removing with your hands.  If the piece got caught and pulled into the blade, guess where your hands are?

 

On full size table saws the splitter is usually part of the blade guard assembly.  The mini saws like Jim's probably don't have one.  And I guess I'll go ahead and admit I removed the guard from my saw years ago, it just gets in the way. But, I am also very deliberate about my safety so removing the guard for me was OK.

 

As mentioned earlier, use your common sense and be diligent in practicing safety!

Edited by cookster

Wes Cook

 

Current Build: USF Constitution (Model Shipways)

USF Essex (Scratch build)

MS Syren (build log lost, need to rebuild)

 

Future Builds: MS Confederacy

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Wes.

thanks for the detailed information.

I just ordered a Byrnes Saw and am trying to make sure I cover the right bases.

 

Richard

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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