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Bounty Launch by alde - Model Shipways - Small


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86 replies to this topic

#1
alde

alde
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First, thanks for taking a peek at my first build log. I have decided to put my MS Kate Cory on hold. I originally bought the Kate Cory kit in December of 1992. Since this kit is over 20 years old it doesn't really compare to the modern laser cut kits with great instruction manuals. It also helps that there are so many builders of the modern kits to get help from.

 

I have just gotten started on it but I can see it will be a real pleasure to build. The parts are amazing compared to the crude wooden blocks and pieces for the old kit. I chose the Bounty Launch as a first planked project because of all the wonderful build here on MSW. Please feel free to nudge me in the right direction if I get off track.

 

Only one picture so far. I only removed a few parts from the sheets and started to clean up the char marks on the edges. It is not heavily burned like some pictures I have seen.

 

Looking forward to a fun build, Al D.

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Bounty Launch Start.jpg

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#2
CaptainSteve

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I'll be following you on your journey, Alde .... I've just bought this kit myself. 

Have you had a read of the other logs for this boat ??

 

You are already further along than I am !!


  • matt.s.s. likes this

CaptainSteve

 

Current Build:   USS Constitution (Model Shipways)

 

My BathTub:     Bounty Launch (Model Shipways)      Log:  Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve

                        Apostol Felipe (OcCre)

                        HMS Victory (Constructo)

 

Check It Out:    The Kit-Basher's Guide to The Galaxy


#3
alde

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Yes, I have been following other logs. They are so helpful. With the old solid hull Kate Cory set aside this will really be my first build and my first shot at planking too.

 

Al D.


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#4
alde

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Just a bit more progress. These laser cut parts are fantastic.

 

Oh, how do some of you folks keep your work area so clean? I never seem to.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Bounty Launch Keel Assembly.jpg

Edited by alde, 17 February 2014 - 10:18 PM.

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#5
alde

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I have the building jig assembled and one side faired in. It was pretty staright forward from the instructions. If I were to do it again I would have waited to install the sheer tabs until the jig was faired. The whole bulkhead needs to be faired so the frames lay against it at the correct angle and the tabs make it more difficult. It would be easy to add them after it's all together and sanded fair.

 

I was really apprehensive about cutting the rabbet but the laser cut lines make it pretty easy. I am happy with the way it's going so far.

 

Al D.

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Building Jig Assembled.jpg
  • Cutting the Rabbet.jpg

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#6
alde

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I have what may be a silly newbie question. I am still working on my building form (will do log update in a couple of days) but I have been re-reading ahead in the instructions. When I get to the planking stage and start gluing planks do I edge glue them to each other or just glue to the frames and keel. I imagine edge gluing would be the way to go as not would make for a weak boat.

 

Thanks, Al D.


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#7
UdoK

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Hi Al,
you're definitely on the right track, edge gluing of the Planks is strongly recommended as it gives a lot of strenght to the hull and planking.


Edited by UdoK, 27 February 2014 - 07:00 PM.

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Cheers,

Udo

 

Current builds:

Gunboat William

USF Confederacy

H.M. Bark Endeavour 

 

Research/Side Projects:

Bomb ketch Salamandre

Charles W. Morgan

HMS Bounty 1787


#8
KeithW

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Albert, you should definitely edge glue the planks. The frames on this model are effectively cosmetic and do not contribute very much to the rigidity of the model at all. 


  • matt.s.s. likes this
Regards, Keith

gallery_1526_572_501.jpg 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina  gallery_1526_579_484.jpg 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati  post-1526-0-02110200-1403452426.jpg 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways
post-1526-0-63099100-1404175751.jpg Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel

#9
Twister

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Just to concur with other posters with the edge gluing question. A most emphatic yes! Not only will it add greatly to the overall strength of the hull,it will also give the planking much needed extra support through the sanding / fairing process.

 

In 'big boat' construction (carvel / clinker) planks were never glued (if built properly) with one exception, that being when 'Speed Strip' planking systems (usually cedar) are used. However, with this method both the inside & outside of the hull are also given a glass/epoxy coating to seal the wood and prevent moisture uptake.

 

Good luck with this build & I'll try and pop in to see your updates...

 

Regards,

 

Row


1:28 Scale J class yacht 'Enterprise' (R/C)
Build log currently at: http://www.rcsailing...prise-build-log

#10
alde

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Thank you all for the information. I am really looking forward to starting the planking. Right now it doesn't look like much of a boat. At this point the rabbet is cut and the form is built and faired. Bending the frames is next. I plan to put the frams to soak overnight Friday and try bending them to the form the next day. The log will be updated along the way and there will probably be more questions.

 

It's really rewarding to see it come together. This is a great hobby with some great people to help a new guy out.

 

Thanks, Al D.



#11
usedtosail

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Nice start so far Al. You'll have fun with this kit. As others have said, you want to edge glue the planks. But, be careful with the amount of glue you use. I found it difficult to get the excess glue off the inside of the planks after I took the hull out of the form. Luckily, I only had a few spots to deal with.


- Tom -
 

Current Build: Model Shipways Constitution

Next in Line: Billings Half Moon or Dumas 1938 Cris Craft

Completed: MS Bounty LaunchHMS Beagle - highly bashed Mamoli kit using Anatomy of Ship book,

Santisima Trinidad Cross Section, Dapper Tom, Sultana, Phantom

 

Member: Nautical Research Guild 
 


#12
alde

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Tom,

 

Thanks for the tip. I will try to keep the glue to a minimum. I am using yellow wood glue. I try to stay away from super glue where I can. It's too hard to recover from mistakes with it.

 

Al D.



#13
alde

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Here is the finished form before bending the frames. I decided to use binder clips to hold the keel alignment tabs closed instead of pinning through the keel. It seems to work just fine.

Finished Form.jpg

I let the cherry frame stock soak in plain water overnight.

Soaking Frames.jpg

Here is the form all framed up. There was quite a bit of breakage but like other have pointed out they give you plenty of sticks to work with. You can see my broken pile in front of the form.

Framed Up with Broken Sticks.jpg

Now to let it all dry while I re-read the planking section of the instructions.

 

Thanks for looking, Al D.


Edited by alde, 01 March 2014 - 06:43 PM.

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#14
alde

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A wise man once said "You can never have too many clamps".

 

Clamps and more clamps.jpg

 

The planking is going OK. It's far from perfect but since I do plan to paint the outside of the hull it should be fine. There will be a couple of small gaps to fill but the planks are going into the rabbit really well and gluing up just fine. It's taking shape and looking more like a boat.

 

 


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#15
alde

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This is the lower planking on the starboard bow. You can see some gaps and dips.

Bow Starboard.jpg

 

Here is the port bow. A little better but not perfect.

Bow Port.jpg

 

Here is the stern and I think this is the problem. It looks like I put the garboard plank too far forward and the rest followed.

Stern Planks Short.jpg

 

The upper planks are laying in just fine. I plan to use some slivers of wood and wood putty and paint the lower hull so will just call it a lesson learned and move forward. At a couple of planks a night after work it's slow going but that's ok. I am having a blast with this kit.

 

Al D.


Edited by alde, 06 March 2014 - 07:24 AM.


#16
KeithW

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Albert, you won't like my suggestion. I recommend that you remove those planks and start again. Because the planks are precisely cut, any errors you make now will compound itself giving you more problems to fix later on. Just paint on some water, and that should soften the glue enough for you to remove the planks.
Regards, Keith

gallery_1526_572_501.jpg 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina  gallery_1526_579_484.jpg 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati  post-1526-0-02110200-1403452426.jpg 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways
post-1526-0-63099100-1404175751.jpg Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel

#17
CaptainSteve

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Hey Alde,
Sorry, but I gotta be agreein' with Amfibius' comment.

 

Also, have you noticed that the instructions suggest tapering the edges of each plank piece (spiling) so that they will fit together better .. ?

 

Another option, since you mentioned you are going to be painting your Launch, would be to hit the whole thing up with plenty of sawdust/diluted glue mix to even things out. Use sawdust made from the same wood (the left-over templates you removed the planks from would be excellent).

Sand down again, apply a coat or two of sanding sealer, and then paint, and nobody will ever notice the difference !!

(I had to do this with one of the boats on my Connie build when I got a little enthusiastic with the shaping of the hull.)


Edited by CaptainSteve, 06 March 2014 - 11:56 AM.

CaptainSteve

 

Current Build:   USS Constitution (Model Shipways)

 

My BathTub:     Bounty Launch (Model Shipways)      Log:  Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve

                        Apostol Felipe (OcCre)

                        HMS Victory (Constructo)

 

Check It Out:    The Kit-Basher's Guide to The Galaxy


#18
alde

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Remove the planks? Sounds like major surgery. It might be the best option and then it will be right. I will give that some thought. I am using Elmer's Interior Carpenter's Wood Glue so it should loosen up with some water.



#19
alde

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OK, I have thought about it a bit and surgery it is. I will try removing the planks with water. Does it take a few applications to get it to work free? I should be able to work out the dent on the one garboard plank without any problems. You guys should see some de-construction pictures in a couple of days.

 

Amfibious, After looking closely at your photos it looks like your garboard plank is in fact a bit further aft. I can see where it flows better with the shapes of the planks that follow.

 

CaptainSteve, I think what Amfibious did by bending all of his planks before gluing any was a great idea. The instructions have us bending and gluing one at a time but the can be dry fitted better if you have them all bent first.


Edited by alde, 06 March 2014 - 04:07 PM.

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#20
usedtosail

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Some isopropyl alcohol will help loosen the glue too. That's what I used to remove the transom on mine. I just dabbed it on with a Q-tip and let it sit for an hour or so. Some gentle prying and out they popped.


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- Tom -
 

Current Build: Model Shipways Constitution

Next in Line: Billings Half Moon or Dumas 1938 Cris Craft

Completed: MS Bounty LaunchHMS Beagle - highly bashed Mamoli kit using Anatomy of Ship book,

Santisima Trinidad Cross Section, Dapper Tom, Sultana, Phantom

 

Member: Nautical Research Guild 
 





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