Jump to content

Shenandoah by @macbride - Corel - first build


Recommended Posts

With excitement & trepidation... here I go! So thankful for this site as a resource!

 

First thing is that the keel is not perfectly straight. Not terrible but not perfect. As the keel & hull come together will this get straightened out during the process, or is there something I can do now to straighten it?

 

I got this kit on eBay & it looks & smells like it's been in an attic neglected for a few decades...

 

Thanks!

 

Andy

post-10380-0-90127100-1392825483_thumb.jpg

post-10380-0-19058000-1392825501_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Doing some prep work: shaped the bow fillers w my Dremel. The instructions had me puzzled but thankfully Steve's build log shows how it's done- thanks Steve!

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5319-shenandoah-by-sgraham-corel-scale-150-american-civil-war-era-cutter-1864/

 

Broke one of the extensions (the left one), but a little glue put things right! Lesson learned!!

post-10380-0-99010700-1392828388_thumb.jpg

post-10380-0-92057600-1392828398_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Andy, I'm really glad to see you got your build log up and running.  I'll definitely be following along. If we can get one more member to post a Shenandoah log, we'll have a fleet.

 

The false keel in my kit was warped too. I have a luthier's bending iron. It's basically an aluminum pipe that gets hot. I didn't get the keel wet or anything. I just held it up to the iron where the keel was curved and applied pressure in the opposite direction of the warp. It didn't take long at all for it to straighten out. You could probably get the same effect with a curling iron set on high and clamped to your workbench. I've bent relatively thick pieces of wood before with a propane torch clamped to the bench, blowing into a length of copper pipe. I've also seen people use a soldering iron with steel wool wraped around the tip, stuffed inside a copper pipe. When you drop water onto the pipe and it dances right off, then it's hot enough to bend.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Steve

completed models:

Shenandoah (Corel)

 

waiting on the shelf:

La Sirene (Corel)

Half Moon (Corel)

Puritan (Mamoli)

 

 

 

Patsy (derisively): "It's only a model."

Arthur: "Sshhh."

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another thing I have tried is a good oldfashioned steam iron and a couple of c clamps not as fancy but a little less hurting on the pocket book

David B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve, can you enlighten me on this: (from Framework section)

 

"Then "taper" frames No. 3-6 toward bow & No. 7-10 toward stern, and shape elements No. 13 with care as illustrated

using the contours of frame No. 10 and the deck No. 12 as reference."

 

I am having a hard time understanding what to taper & where...

 

Also: can u comment on the hieroglyphs on plate 5???

 

Thank you in advance!

 

Andy

post-10380-0-71004100-1392836522_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Basically what you are doing is fairing the hull and prepping  it for planking.  Take strip of wood and place it across the bulkheads and bend it aroun three to four of them.  If the edge of the bulkheads.  Then take a thin strip of wood and put some sandpaper on and proceed to sand down the edges doing 3 to 4 bulkheads at a time.  Use the plank to check your progress.  When you are finshed the plank and the bulkheads should stay in contact through out the hull. be careful and do not take off too much you could potentially make the hull asymerical. a little at a time.

David B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Andy, I'll just add a little to David's explanation. The frames intersect with the false keel at right angles, right? The outside edges of the frames are square in shape. The planking has to curve nicely with the shape of the hull. It can't do that if it's attached to squared-off frame ends. You'd end up with big ugly lumps under the planking. The contour of the hull sides doesn'trun parallel with the false keel. If it did, the boat would be shaped like a box. That's why you have to sand the outside edges of the frames so that their angle matches the curve of the hull at that point.

 

Look at post #21 in my build log. That's where I'm trying to follow the same directions David gave you. Use a flexible stick so it can bend around 3-4 frames at a time.

 

I'll answer your question about the directions later--gotta run and teach a class.

 

Steve

completed models:

Shenandoah (Corel)

 

waiting on the shelf:

La Sirene (Corel)

Half Moon (Corel)

Puritan (Mamoli)

 

 

 

Patsy (derisively): "It's only a model."

Arthur: "Sshhh."

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Andy, which letter section on Plate 5 are you wondering about?

 

Steve

completed models:

Shenandoah (Corel)

 

waiting on the shelf:

La Sirene (Corel)

Half Moon (Corel)

Puritan (Mamoli)

 

 

 

Patsy (derisively): "It's only a model."

Arthur: "Sshhh."

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking great, Andy. How's the kink in the keel?

 

Steve

completed models:

Shenandoah (Corel)

 

waiting on the shelf:

La Sirene (Corel)

Half Moon (Corel)

Puritan (Mamoli)

 

 

 

Patsy (derisively): "It's only a model."

Arthur: "Sshhh."

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi again Andy. Figure A on Plate 5 is showing you the way Corel recommends that you fair the outer edges of the frames. I think David's idea of a flexible batten with sandpaper glued to it is more effective. I tried it and it went very quickly. Like he says, though, watch out not to take off too much. I did and had to replace it in places.

 

The two hieroglyphs below letter A  are a bird's eye view of the frame ends bearing the numbers next to them. "16" is a bird's eye view of the planking that goes below the bulwark (2 strakes only) (see figure B, #16). Look carefully at the dotted lines on the ends of the frames in the figure. They are showing you the approximate angle you'll need to bevel the frame ends at to get the planking to run smoothly against them.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Steve

completed models:

Shenandoah (Corel)

 

waiting on the shelf:

La Sirene (Corel)

Half Moon (Corel)

Puritan (Mamoli)

 

 

 

Patsy (derisively): "It's only a model."

Arthur: "Sshhh."

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One of the things you can do to finish straightening out your keel is to put it in a keel clamp and then put in the bulkheads.  Once the bulkheads are squared up fill in the space with a wood like bass ,aspen or pine. Insuring that everything si square and your keel will not warp.

David B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Help! I've got the deck tentatively attached, but I'm doubting what to do.

Several of the frames curve lower as they go from the center to the lateral

edge. If I secure the deck to those frames it will definitely not be level.

Note the gap between what looks to me to be a level deck and a curved

frame...

Do I put a bit of filler wood in these gaps, or do I follow the frames?

 

Thanks!!!

 

Andy

post-10380-0-74439800-1393107286_thumb.jpg

post-10380-0-54704300-1393107310_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Andy, What you're noticing is the camber in the deck. It's supposed to be like that. The tops of the frames are radiused--high in the middle to lower at the edges. This is to simulate the deck beams--the crossways pieces that hold up the deck. They are radiused like this to direct water to the edges where the scuppers are so it can drain off the deck rather keep sloshing around. It's the same reason they put a crown in the middle of a road to shed rainwater. Go ahead and glue the deck to the frame tops.

 

Keep at it; you're ship is looking great.

 

Steve

completed models:

Shenandoah (Corel)

 

waiting on the shelf:

La Sirene (Corel)

Half Moon (Corel)

Puritan (Mamoli)

 

 

 

Patsy (derisively): "It's only a model."

Arthur: "Sshhh."

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks once again, Steve!! My lack of boat knowledge is no doubt showing big time, but I'm learning a lot as I go!

Did you use the tiny nails in the kit? If so, what instrument(s) do you use to place said tiny nails?

 

Meanwhile, I finally got the standup paddle board kit I ordered last month!!! I hope to have it ready for my teenage

kids to use this summer, so I will be dividing my time between the Shenandoah & the "Kaholo"!!!

 

http://www.clcboats.com/shop/boats/surf_boats/kaholo-stand-up-paddleboard.html

 

It wont be long before winter turns into a beautiful Iowa summer!!!

post-10380-0-69276700-1393113224_thumb.jpg

post-10380-0-17260900-1393113855_thumb.jpg

Edited by @macbride
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The paddleboard sounds like a lot of fun to build. Your kids will have a blast with it I'm sure. I love paddling, but I do mine in an old folbot. Do you live on that lake?

 

Yes, use the little brass nails to nail down the deck--with glue too, of course. I use a tweezers to hold them and a small tack hammer to pound them in. Holding the nails with needlenose pliers works too. When your deck is installed, you'll like the look of the cambered deck.

 

Steve

completed models:

Shenandoah (Corel)

 

waiting on the shelf:

La Sirene (Corel)

Half Moon (Corel)

Puritan (Mamoli)

 

 

 

Patsy (derisively): "It's only a model."

Arthur: "Sshhh."

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To make things easier for score the back of the false deck a few time and this will make it rasier to lay the deck down

David B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Progress!!

 

After holding the deck in place with pins

 

post-10380-0-94504400-1393191268_thumb.jpg

 

I removed them & used a surgical "tissue pick-up" to insert the tiny nails. No hammering was necessary thanks to the hole the pins had made.

 

post-10380-0-52140200-1393191362_thumb.jpg

 

This successfully brought the deck into contact with the frames!

 

post-10380-0-80167400-1393191453_thumb.jpg

 

After the deck was secured with nails I glued all of the seams. A very satisfying bit o progress!

 

Now I'm reading up on planking & feeling very intimidated...

 

Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Keep up the good work.    Something I have done when I am bending I wou;d just  multple planks is to make a fixture and after soaking put the planks in it.  The next day they would be ready to go.

David B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Andy, Did you bring that surgical tissue pick up home from work? The cutter is looking real good. I especially like how you've beveled the frames. That from-above shot of the bulwark bent along the frames shows the beveling nicely. Your ship is really coming along.

 

Steve

completed models:

Shenandoah (Corel)

 

waiting on the shelf:

La Sirene (Corel)

Half Moon (Corel)

Puritan (Mamoli)

 

 

 

Patsy (derisively): "It's only a model."

Arthur: "Sshhh."

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Second bulwark now adapted & drying!post-10380-0-52503800-1393708392_thumb.jpg

 

(note snow falling outside!!!)

 

Found a cool set of 12 mini files at garretwade.com

 

post-10380-0-51758100-1393708510_thumb.jpg. $30 including standard shipping. I will comment on quality when I get them.

 

Meanwhile, also progressing with standup paddle board!!!

 

post-10380-0-08295200-1393708583_thumb.jpg

 

Fiberglass fabric applied to okoume plywood deck with epoxy...

 

post-10380-0-72664300-1393708650_thumb.jpg

 

This is actually far easier than the model boat!! Mainly, the quality of the instructions is far, far better.

 

 

 

Andypost-10380-0-42602300-1393708771_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...