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Hi folks,

 

I built a pedal switch using a button bell. (as you can see in the pictures under)

 

It works very well, but now I need to turn it in a switch-controller, to control rpm.

 

I don't know how and I do not understand anything of transformers, resistors, etc.

 

Is there anyone could help me, please ?

 

Thanks everybody

 

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post-410-0-15802500-1361629312_thumb.jpg

 

post-410-0-71861300-1361629421_thumb.jpg

 

post-410-0-11619400-1361629455_thumb.jpg

Edited by fabius.b

current build:   USS Constitution cross section - U.S. Navy Frigate 1797

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Pavol stands for Paul, Pablo, Paolo etc. Please do not try to pronounce it, just call me Pav...

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Hi folks,

 

I built a pedal switch using a button bell. (as you can see in the pictures under)

 

It works very well, but now I need to turn it in a switch-controller, to control rpm.

 

I don't know how and I do not understand anything of transformers, resistors, etc.

 

Is there anyone could help me, please ?

 

Thanks everybody

 

attachicon.gifDSC_0002.JPG

 

attachicon.gifDSC_0002.JPG

 

attachicon.gifDSC_0004.JPG

 

attachicon.gifDSC_0005.JPG

 

Hi folks,

 

I built a pedal switch using a button bell. (as you can see in the pictures under)

 

It works very well, but now I need to turn it in a switch-controller, to control rpm.

 

I don't know how and I do not understand anything of transformers, resistors, etc.

 

Is there anyone could help me, please ?

 

Thanks everybody

 

attachicon.gifDSC_0002.JPG

 

attachicon.gifDSC_0002.JPG

 

attachicon.gifDSC_0004.JPG

 

attachicon.gifDSC_0005.JPG

 

Hmmm.....   you might be better off looking for a machine that has the kind of control you want if you do not know how the electronics work.

 

there are a few ways that the speed control might be done for a given tool and the issue is that if you try to do it the wrong way it might make the tool fail sooner than it should under normal use.

 

the more basic controls will be to vary the amount of power the motor gets, if it's a simple motor then that should not be a problem.

 

but some tools may have a speed control that works on the duty cycle / and or PWM of the power and lowering the input power on them might just fry the electronics.

 

you might ask the Mfg of the tool about the control you want and see what they say.

Holding at Rigging stage :

MS Bluenose 1:64, rigging and finish work

 

Building Hull :

MS Fair American 1:48

 

In the yard:  18th Century Longboat, Model Shipways Kit

Done: AL Bounty Jolly Boat

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  • 6 years later...

Yes. You should just be able to connect the wires by colour code. I assume you have a standard Unimat SL motor and a speed control type foot-pedal in mind, not 'on-off'. Just be aware that with the original Unimat motor you are not going to get great low speed performance and can easily overload the motor. The Unimat 3 should have a two speed switch which, with belt changes, gives a very good range.

At one time or another, I have used a sewing machine foot speed controller, a dimmer switch and an industrial speed control unit on Unimats. I now control speed only by swapping belts on the pulleys. It is the only way to get the torque correct for the speed. Also, Unimat made a slow-speed pulley assembly for the SL which is usually avilable on fleabay.  If you are using a different motor these comments may not apply.

 

HTH

Bruce

🌻

STAY SAFE

 

A model shipwright and an amateur historian are heads & tails of the same coin

current builds:

HMS Berwick 1775, 1/192 scratchbuild; a Slade 74 in the Navy Board style

Mediator sloop, 1/48 - an 18th century transport scratchbuild 

French longboat - CAF - 1/48, on hold

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I never used any of the Unimats, but control all my machines from a foot switch, while having a separate speed-control. These sewing-machine speed-controls are basically variable resistors and one loses a lot of torque and maintaining a constant speed for prolonged periods of time caused me cramps in the leg.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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6 hours ago, shipman said:

Can I operate a Unimat lathe with a sewing machine foot control? If so, how to wire it in? Just fit it in line with the power cord? Advice appreciated, thank you.

Did this last year  and it works fine . Simply have wire and plug socket going out and wire and plug going in, interposed between unimat plug and power source-wall plug. it can then be removed simply if  not wanted at any particular time. By the way, for the  same unimat, I bought a dimmer switch to reduce revs.

current build- Swan ,scratch

on shelf,Rattlesnake, Alert semi scratch,Le Coureur,, Fubbs scratch

completed: nostrum mare,victory(Corel), san felipe, sovereign of the seas, sicilian  cargo boat ,royal yacht caroline, armed pinnace, charles morgan whaler, galilee boat, wappen von hamburg, la reale (Dusek), amerigo vespucci, oneida (semi scratch) diane, great harry-elizabethan galleon (semi scratch), agammemnon, hanna (scratch).19th cent. shipyard diorama (Constructo), picket boat, victory bow section

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I use a foot switch with my drill press.  

Harbor Freight has two types:

Momentary - apply pressure = ON  - raise foot = OFF

Maintained - apply pressure = ON  - raise foot  = stays ON - apply pressure = OFF......  Click - ON / click - OFF

Plug either into the house wiring.  Plug the machine into it.

Fix the switch to a board that is long enough for your heel to rest on.

I use the momentary  switch.  I am bare foot in Summer and sock foot in Winter and just pressure from my big toe is enough.

For the type tools that we use,  a separate inline dial control to vary the power is better than using a variable pressure foot switch.  The cramping from the abnormal foot action would be adverse enough.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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I picked up various antique/old foot-switches on flea-markets and replaced the switches with momentary ones (which seem to be difficult to find in electronics shops these days).

 

Thinking of bare feet/feet in socks runs shivers down my spine  - there is always swarf or splinters on the floor ... at least in my workshop space.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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Where I have my drill press ( a jewelers size )- there is just wood flour on the floor.  The bigger stuff is in the garage.  I do keep track of all of the quilters pins, so that I do not find them with my feet.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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