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Dremel or Foredom or Proxxon rotary tool recommendations


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I've been reading a lot of posts trying to get an idea of what kinds of tools I might want to pick up while I am trying to figure out what model to build and where to set up a space to built it in my house. I have a bevy of large power tools I bought myself and inherited from my father in-law, but I do not have a rotary tool. It seems that a rotary tools is useful tool for the beginning modeler. 

 

First, I am at a bit of a loss concerning brands, seeing Dremel, Foredom, and Proxxon recommended by different people, with some saying that Foredom (or Proxxon) is far better than Dremel, but others saying that Foredom is too powerful for model ship building and Dremel is good enough. I thought Dremel was simply cheaper, but then I saw others saying that Dremel ends up costing more because of the cost of accessories. 

 

Second, there are tons of different versions within any brand, with corded and cordless versions, different speed possibilities, and different model numbers. Is there something to look for (and avoid) when choosing between models variants of rotary tools.

 

Third, what kinds of rotary tool accessories are used for model ship building? I've seen a bunch of different combinations of 60, 120, 240 tools (or whatever) but I have no idea what set of accessories are important to get to see if there's a combination that makes sense. I know I can use rotary tool accessories for lots of things around the house, but I definitely want to make sure I get something that has all the model ship accessories in it and I have no clue what to look for.

 

Fourth, in addition to accessories that plug into the rotary tool itself, what about other add-ons? For example, I have a large drill press. I would think that I could use that for small work too. Or would I need to get a drill press-like attachment that holds a Dremel (or other rotary tool) as well?

 

Thanks. And sorry for all the questions. I did read a ton of posts here, but maybe I missed one that had all these questions answered, in which case a simple link might be enough.

 

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First: all the accessories are interchangeable - as long as the maximum diameter of the shaft of the accessory does not exceed the size of the collet, your rotary tool will be able to hold the accessory. I did some googling for you:

 

Dremel - maximum collet size 1/8" (3.125mm)

Proxxon - maximum collet size 3.2mm

Foredom - maximum collet size 1/4" (6.35mm)

 

Second: I don't like cordless tools, because they are heavier (thanks to the battery) and more awkward to hold. Also, it is annoying to have to charge the battery because it will inevitably give out when you need it most. I prefer corded tools, with an extension shaft to a small tool holder you can hold like a pen. Foredom is designed like this, and you can buy a Flex-shaft accessory for the Dremel and Proxxon.

 

Third: the rotary tool accessories I use most often are:

 

post-1526-0-73582300-1404272068_thumb.jpg

The cut-off wheel. This is mounted on my Dremel 90% of the time.

 

post-1526-0-87122900-1404272075.jpg

The sanding drum.

 

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The collet set, for holding various sizes of drill bits.

 

Fourth: other add-ons. Not necessary, although some people find the drill press attachment for the Dremel to be quite useful. Having said that, you already own one.

Regards, Keith

 

gallery_1526_572_501.jpg 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina  gallery_1526_579_484.jpg 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati  post-1526-0-02110200-1403452426.jpg 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways

post-1526-0-63099100-1404175751.jpg Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel

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Dremel is what I have. I've found a thousand uses for it, but I've learned (the hardway) once you grind something off....you can't put it back. The Dremel can eat through a lot of material very fast.

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Dremel makes a very good tool.  I have the model 395 which is varible speed.  I also have their 7.2 volt cordless model.  I picked up both on ebay for under $20, something unlikely to happed with a Foredom or Proxxon tool.  My personal opinion is that for ship modeling Dremel is just as good as the more expensive models and a lot more available and cheaper.

Edited by grsjax

My advice and comments are always worth what you paid for them.

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Having used a Dremel in the past and owning a Mastercraft (Canadian Tire brand), I've found that the only thing you have to worry about between brands is getting the right size collet for the bit you are going to use.  I'm sure all brands have their highs and lows. Just do your research and you will find one that suits your needs and budget. But as KeithW has said, a flex-shaft is a (near) must in our hobby.  Helps to get the precision areas with more control than just using the power head.

Carl
 
 
Completed builds: AL Bluenose II 1:75  Gallery
                              Amati Hannah SIB 1:300  Gallery
 
Current Build: Bluenose II - SIB - unknown scale

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Just my $.02 (US)... Dremel makes a chuck which, to me, beats the others others out.  I can use not just the Dremel tools but also assorted drill bits.   It's a tad ( :D ) heavy for fine delicate detail work so for that work I picked up a WEcheer Mini-Engraver (WE-242) on the recommendations of some others in this group.

 

The Wecheer product, interestingly, is used by nail salons... a bit of Googling should tell you more if your interested.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I use a Dremel for most the powered work on my models but also have a cheap Harbor Freight rotary tool which is smaller and lighter but not as powerful or accurate as the Dremel. The bit that I use the most is the sanding drum with the coarse sandpaper. You can use any brand of bits as long as they have an 1/8" diameter shaft, Harbor Freight sells several sets of accessories for a reasonable price, if you don't live near a Harbor Freight there's always eBay.

 

 

 

Lextin.

"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein.

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I have the Foredom tool. I bought it years ago when doing inlay work and needed a good reliable rotary tool. It is more expensive than the Dremel. Bill Short discusses the pros and cons of these and more rotary tool options in his book on carving. Basically his recommendation for carving would be a dental drill since the handle is very small and light.

 

However, if you are like me, you are looking for something more general purpose. I have found with the Foredom tool that the combination of high high the tool is hung along with the handle I use makes a hole world of difference. This is primarily due to the flexible drive tube. If I move too far from the motor I find I am having to hold on to the tool very tightly since it wants to be closer to the motor. This is not bad, but if I am going to be using the tool for an extended period of time, I just need to make sure I arrange my work to be cognizant of that.

 

The various tools I use are from Dremal, Foredom and others since they are interchangeable. I did replace the handle with one with a chuck in it. Makes tool changes much faster. I would think the Foredom probably has more interchangeability between the various tools than Dremel since the latters smaller chuck would preclude some of the Foredom tools.

 

I do love the veritable speed food pedal. I use that a lot. It is also reversible which can be important with some bits - especially in carving.

 

Full disclosure, I did have a minor disaster one day with the Foredom. I had not been paying attention to the hanging motor mount on the arm. The mount is attached to the ceiling in my workshop and allows me to adjust the height of the tool. However the hanging motor clips to the lower rod. This clip had worked to the end of the rod and I had not noticed it. When it fell of course, it landed on my ship model. It broke a couple of things but could have been MUCH worse. This was not the tools fault but mine since I should have noticed the motor clip position. Now I am very cognizant of ANYTHING hanging near or around my model.

Bill

Chantilly, VA

 

Its not the size of the ship, but the bore of the cannon!

 

Current Build: Scratch Build Brig Eagle

 

Completed Build Log: USS Constitution - Mamoli

Completed Build Gallery: USS Constitution - Mamoli

 

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I'd you go to http://www.foredom.net you will be able to find out more information on the tools and accessories.

Bill

Chantilly, VA

 

Its not the size of the ship, but the bore of the cannon!

 

Current Build: Scratch Build Brig Eagle

 

Completed Build Log: USS Constitution - Mamoli

Completed Build Gallery: USS Constitution - Mamoli

 

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I recently bought the Foredom micro tool, which has a small hand piece with a cord--not a flexible shaft--to a box with a variable speed control box. This also allows plugging in the foot control. It works well. The key issue to consider is having a foot control. In my experience, a Dremel--even with a soft start on switch--revs up too fast to control the small drill bits from wandering from a punched starting hole. The Foredoms allow a very slow, very controlled start with a foot switch, and bits never wander.

 

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I bought a Foredom years ago when the NRG held its' conference in Chicago.  I have the motor flexshaft and the handpiece with the jacobs chuck.  I found it different because the flexshaft but once I got use to it I would never give it up.  It has power and speed that can be controlled.  One of these days I might buy a recarchable dremel.  But that can wait.

David B

Edited by dgbot
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I have the Dremel 4000 now with the drill press, shaft drive, and an assortment of odds and ends.   I love the dremel BUT I have burnt through three in my life having used them since 11 or 12, Im 32 now.   I view it as a necessary but not a particularly long-lived tool.

 

I ALSO have a Foredom that belonged to a friends grandfather (circa 1980's).  Works great, and I have a couple accessory handles.   I LOVE the variable speed pedal, and its solid dependable build.   I will second what has been said about the tendency for a Dremel to devour anything it can given the chance...   the variable speed pedal makes a world of difference it negotiating this risk.   I dont know anyone that has a Dremel previously belonging to someones grandad.   They just dont last as long...not an heirloom tool.  

 

One last comment...   I have always felt that a dremel is like duct tape.  Every house should have it.   

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Greetings Maturin,

 

I would eliminate right off the bat any that are made in China, unless there is no other choice. Yes, stuff made in China is cheap, but I have found in almost every case that it is garbage. Other than Chinese food, I go out of my way not to buy Chinese products because they are poorly engineered, poorly made, and the materials are inferior. My first choice is made in the U.S.A., but some Japanese and European stuff (re: German) can be good. The Chinese are good at making shirts and cheap plastic widgets - nothing that involves moving parts.

 

wq3296

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wq3296 I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss Chinese products. You would be surprised how many items you use in everyday life are made in China. Granted, there is a lot of garbage that comes from China, but it all comes down to quality control. A friend of mine has business dealings in China where a Chinese factory manufactures items for his company. The stuff that comes out is as good as anywhere in the world, but he says that you have to inspect each shipment carefully to make sure that standards are maintained.

 

The two largest laptop manufacturers (Lenovo and Apple) are both made in China. Nothing wrong with my Lenovo, it is four years old and still going strong.

 

BTW not everything made in the USA is good, either. Just look at the cars.

Edited by KeithW

Regards, Keith

 

gallery_1526_572_501.jpg 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina  gallery_1526_579_484.jpg 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati  post-1526-0-02110200-1403452426.jpg 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways

post-1526-0-63099100-1404175751.jpg Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel

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Greetings  Keith,

 

Really? I guess you haven't driven a new American car in the past 15-20 years. We learned some hard lessons from Japan in the 70s-80s about value and quality. Now, dollar for dollar we can go heads up with any car manufacturer in the world. If you doubt this, read magazines that compare cars and you will understand what I mean.

 

I understand about quality control, and foreign companies doing business in China may be able to produce an acceptable product. However, in my opinion, the vast majority of Chinese owned and operated companies make garbage. I guess if that's all that is available, or you can't afford better, you buy Chinese.

 

wq3296

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Greetings Maturin,

 

I would eliminate right off the bat any that are made in China, unless there is no other choice. Yes, stuff made in China is cheap, but I have found in almost every case that it is garbage. Other than Chinese food, I go out of my way not to buy Chinese products because they are poorly engineered, poorly made, and the materials are inferior. My first choice is made in the U.S.A., but some Japanese and European stuff (re: German) can be good. The Chinese are good at making shirts and cheap plastic widgets - nothing that involves moving parts.

 

wq3296

 

 

I dont remember saying anything about China originally.  I can only suppose that your referring to the Dremel being of Chinese origin.   That would at least be following the theme of the original thread.   

 

Regardless of where its manufactured, Dremel is a good tool.   They are designed to be abused and can take a fair amount before failure...   I wouldnt hesitate to recommend a Dremel, I would though just mention that they could blow next week or ten years from now.  My Foredom is like an oak tree...  Im not sure it will ever fail, and until this moment never once contemplated its origin.   

 

As for American versus Chinese.....  thats a dirty pond Im not gonna go swimming in.  Dont believe everything your tag/box tells you.

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One last thing about the Foredom, maintenance parts are available to replace the brushes in the motor, or maintenance on the flexible drive. These are also easily replaceable should the need arise. This might also be true for Dremel, I don't know since I don't use one. However, with the Foredom, this extends the life of the system quite a bit.

Bill

Chantilly, VA

 

Its not the size of the ship, but the bore of the cannon!

 

Current Build: Scratch Build Brig Eagle

 

Completed Build Log: USS Constitution - Mamoli

Completed Build Gallery: USS Constitution - Mamoli

 

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I tend towards the Dremel.  I have several.  While one is corded, I find myself using the cordless 770 (7.2 volts) most of the time. 

 

One recommendation if going Dremel...get rid of the collets and get a micro chuck.

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, John Smith Shallop
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch 1/4 scale-Model Shipways plans)

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''The Dremel has too much wobble.''  This is exactly what happens when:

''One recommendation if going Dremel...get rid of the collets and get a micro chuck.''

 

This is exactly the same principle on a milling machine; if you put a milling cutter in a chuck after some times it will wobble and could cause an accident.

Another example with the lathe, using a collet will hold your part way much stonger and way more precisely than a chuck.

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Maturin,

 

Stating my opinion. Note that I said if you have a choice of manufacture, and can afford better, stay away from Chinese junk. I check everything I buy, and I am aware that some of the components contained within are made elsewhere. Of course, no way of knowing that until the thing breaks down and you find out that the part that failed was made in China.

 

wq3296

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  • 10 months later...

Dremel 3000 just passed away. Low usage for maybe a year or two. That is way too early. I am unhappy enough to be witching to any other brand and not even caring to go to their aftersales. I need my tools to be available when I need them. Visibly thatis not what Dremel offers. 

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The first table saw I bought about 25 years ago was a Dremel and it still works and this table does things Byrnes table does not.

You get what you pay for. Dremel are low cost tools, and for that price they are good tools.

Foredom is  better quality, much stronger, in fact even too strong and the shaft reduces the maniability, and for that reason I do not use it anymore.

The best quality I use Gesswein, price 10 times Dremel, so you see Dremel is not expensive. Last year they replaces bearings for $140, and it was worth.

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I use two Dremel (corded) and WeCher mini-engraver.  Also have the Dremel drill press stand and their planer/shaper table. Dremel makes an assortment of collets which are interchangeable with Dremel and WeCher.  Have had good result with both.

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Okay, I also purchased the Dremel 4000. In sanding the interior of the Eagle, I was putting the Foredom tool into kinks which caused the tool to operate a bit jumpy. So I purchased the Dremel for those areas. I have to say, I like it a lot as well. So put me down for promoting both tools!

Bill

Chantilly, VA

 

Its not the size of the ship, but the bore of the cannon!

 

Current Build: Scratch Build Brig Eagle

 

Completed Build Log: USS Constitution - Mamoli

Completed Build Gallery: USS Constitution - Mamoli

 

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I have a Dremel Micro and it is really great to work with small parts,especially when it comes to carving..thanks to this small wonder my work look ten times better.

Completed.... Charles W. Morgan,Sea Horse,USS Constitution,Virginia 1819,San Fransisco II, AL HMS Bounty 1:48

L'Herminione 1:96

Spanish Frigate,22 cannons 18th C. 1:35 scale.Scratch-built (Hull only)

Cutter Cheefull 1806 1:48 (with modifications)

 

Current Project: Orca (This is a 35" replica of the Orca boat from the movie Jaws)

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