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HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...


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Elsewhere, people asked whether the net in front was not a hindrance and whether it would not make more sense underneath, as is the case today.

So I simply made some pictures that I don't want to withhold from yo 🙂

Here without the jib boom

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And here with

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You can see some things well.

- The wings of the bee give our little sailor a good foothold, which also explains the slanting position, which makes it easy to support oneself.
- The net is not particularly in the way, as you have to fish around the bowsprit cap in front of it anyway.
- The inner jib lands immediately in the net when it is brought down and does not lie over the spars. If it is stowed properly and successively when lowering, the standing area of our seamen also stays accessible.
- When the sail is stowed, the jib boom can still be moved.

What is also true, of course, is that this small net has evolved into the jib net we know today, where it has been reversed, because today you stand in the net and the sail rests on the boom. Even when stowing a medium-sized sail like the Hendrika, it takes a lot of strength to reach around and underneath the downhaul to fasten the sail. What was it like with the big sheets?

And the all-clear was also given elsewhere: In the literature, instead of the net, you always see two battens as a boundary at the top and bottom, connected with a zig-zag rope running lengthwise. Druxey gave me the hint that this was only a very short-term intermediate development stage that was very quickly replaced by the net. Thank you for that!

Sorry, so I don't have any more demolition for you today ....

XXXDAn

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On 10/19/2023 at 6:23 PM, Kevin-the-lubber said:

The diorama looks incredible, who made all the ships?

 Here is the link Kevin, but they didn't say more about the builders. Another one, this is a bit more detailed in German, unfortunately the pictures aren't shown there. Google translator worked for me (i know German a little however)

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The models come from the company artitec and were made just for this model. I will post some more pictures soon :-)

 

Scale is 1:87.

 

What a pity that the pictures of Modellmarine have disappeared, they were very detailed.

 

XXXDAn

 

PS: I found a working Link to the pictures 🙂

https://www.modellmarine.de/index.php/fotogalerien/178-/1624-die-reede-von-texel-teil-2

 

 

Edited by dafi
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Thanks both, I’ll file that away in my memory for when we eventually revisit Amsterdam.

Current builds:

1) HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

2) Bluenose II 1:100 (Billing) - paused, not in the mood

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30694-billing-bluenose-ii-1100-no600-by-kevin-the-lubber/

 

3) Cutty Sark 1:96 Revell

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Stash:

Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 (a spare for later)

Revell Beagle 1/96 (unlikely to ever get built!)

Revell Kearsage 1/96 (can't wait to get started on this)

Revell Constitution 1/96

 

If at first you don't succeed, buy some more tools.

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Thank you all for your comments and likes!

 

XXXDAn

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With the main yard I tried out the first blocks on the ship, and I really got into it with the hearts on the bow.

In the meantime it has developed further. It's amazing what a large amount came together for the standing rigging alone. Here is a family picture.

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The special blocks were the most fun. Here are some in the foreground.

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First the Sisterblocks, in German with the crisp name "Stengewantblocks", just try to speak that out loud.

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Of course, the test assembly here on the main mast was exciting ...

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... also with the matching ropes.

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And also cute the smaller version on the mizzen mast.

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Long tackles blocks are used to stiffen the fore topmast stay and its preventer stay.

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I'm also supposed to pass this in between the guys at the heads. Will also be exciting again.

XXXDAn

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  • 1 month later...

Sent my order!  This is needed badly.  I am stuck starting the standing rigging.  Other wooden options just don't look right and expensive.  I already did my bowsprit without proper blocks. Bummer.

Thank you!

 

btw 'Schwesterbloks' would be a little easier.

Edited by William-Victory
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Hello William, and all the others that tried to contact me. I am just back wrom a business trip and will deal with your mails asap - promised!

All the best, DAniel

 

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Once upon a time ...

The dafi had its annual public tinkering session with its modelling club at the Stuttgart trade fair. Then we went straight from the trade fair to a customer in Austria for a while. I didn't have a chance to think about anything model-building-related.

I'm back home now, and I can only catch up on what I've been doing over the last two months. But first things first 🙂

Before the trade fair, I had finished the running rigging. I wanted to try it out at the fair to see if it would be manageable, as the stuff - if true to scale - is very, very small.

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As with the standing rigging, I have summarised the block sets for the individual locations.

Here are the yards of the main mast ...

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... of the foremast ...

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... and the mizzen mast.

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There are also the collections for headsails, stunsails and other locations.

It was fun again at the trade fair.

Our booth ...

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... my workplace ...

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... and my colleagues in typical working posture 😉

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It was especially funny there when you want to try out the 2 mm blocks - the smallest of the sets - and don't have everything you need with you. Dear Alex then played vice and held my auxiliary jig for rigging - thanks for that!

It worked straight away and with my now tried and tested technique, even these small blocks are wonderfully quick and easy to rig.

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What was still missing were the parrells. I also managed to do this in a last-minute operation. Here are the two sizes with ribs for the top and topgallant yards.

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Threaded for neatening ...

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... and the first tying attempt to find out how many are needed.

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Here is the final version on the main top yard ...

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... and with a able seaman for the dimensions.

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Someone also climbed up especially for the topgallant yard.

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And to round things off, the stuff for the gaff also got their own size of parrells. First try ...

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... the shape was adjusted a little and the final version is on its way.

The claw is also grained with the centre punch ...

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... and drilled out with 0.5 mm ...

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... the blocks trimmed and wooded ...

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... and into place ...

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... and everything fits! Fits 🙂

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Best regards, Daniel
 
Edited by dafi
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  • 2 months later...

I've been busy lately and haven't had much time to tinker. But the list of blocks to be used on the Vic and the corresponding rope thicknesses has finally been finalized. Time to check some of them out. As the blocks are sorted by yards and other locations, here is the block set for the main yard.

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Since the main yard has already been started, I've taken on its lifts. First the hangers. As usually served with white glue and black paint.

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The loop underneath the cap that holds the hanger together.

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And here the assembly on a spare mast cap.

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More hopefully soon.

XXXDAn

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Next, of course, was the combination of blocks with a shoulder block for the top sail sheet and a normal block for the lift on the yardarm.

First the two blocks stropped together ...

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... then still smuggled in with bright rope the loop for the horses onto the cleat and finally tied in the eye for the double block at the outside.

First one side ...

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... and then the second ...

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... and everything for the lifts is on the yardarm 🙂

XXXDAn

Edited by dafi
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Those are wonderful looking blocks Dan, I was about to ask if they were CNC-ed wood, but saw from your site that they are resin. Doing them in sets is a clever idea.

Current builds:

1) HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

2) Bluenose II 1:100 (Billing) - paused, not in the mood

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30694-billing-bluenose-ii-1100-no600-by-kevin-the-lubber/

 

3) Cutty Sark 1:96 Revell

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Stash:

Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 (a spare for later)

Revell Beagle 1/96 (unlikely to ever get built!)

Revell Kearsage 1/96 (can't wait to get started on this)

Revell Constitution 1/96

 

If at first you don't succeed, buy some more tools.

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Yes, dafi knows how to do it, dafi hasn't forgotten anything ...

...

...

... the wrecking ball!

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What happened again?

I always say it, my biggest problem is getting the big exhibit in P. out of my head.

For almost 20 years now, I've been looking forward to those great special shoulder and quarter blocks that I discovered back then back there, building them exactly according to McKay and Bugler's plans and, in my exuberance, not even realizing that they are much rounder in the classic literature ...

Thank goodness there are some people in my german pack and also here in the MSW who are not so obsessed and have a keen eagle eye and have pointed this out to me. Thank you!

So I made new rounder blocks. I used this too to do some more research, as I was slightly irritated at the first pass when I noticed that these blocks on the foremast lower mast and topsail are all the same size, just like on the main mast lower mast and topsail. Thanks to you @druxey for reassuring me in theses sizes and confirming this on the basis of Steel's information.

At this point, in response to a few questions, I would like to repeat the painting method: first, using an old disheveled brush, two layers of very thin paint in a darker brown, which is the base color. The thin paint makes it easy to get to the sides without pasting over the holes.

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The highlighting color in a lighter brown, applied with a dry brush, is applied on top. This emphasizes the edges and the depths remain slightly darker, which gives optical depth. And the deliberately uneven application of color keeps the whole thing alive and no longer looks like plastic.

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Then the grand finale: as the new round blocks are the same size as the old square ones, simply press the new ones back into the strop from the side and you're done.

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The same with the sheet quarter blocks, before - after http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif

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You see dafi still can do it http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif

XXXDAn


PS: All those of you that already got a delivery of blocks will get a free upgade of the blocks in question http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif

Edited by dafi
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Thank you druxey!

 

XXXDAn

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Just a small warning for those who follow the sequences of my build: Please remember to put the shrouds before putting up the stays! My stays are up for test purposes, I will still have to reopen the lanyards take the stays off, fit pendents and shrouds and then finally reset the says and its lanyards 🙂

 

All the best, DAniel

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