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How I fix Boo-Boos and Oopsies (Mistakes) by Dan Vadas - Share your own "Fixes" here


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#41
ianmajor

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Harvey,

 

I make them as I need them. It took 2 minutes to make the one above - I was slowed down by taking photographs. :)

 

I prefer to make them on my lathe with the drill bits in collets but wanted to show it can be done without. With the drill press I clamp the machine vice so that it can't move, then as long as the jig under construction doesn't move the second bit should be in line. The best results using the above method is to use a mini drill for the hole right through the jig, but use a hand drill for the larger bit, you can then feel the bit following the pilot hole.

 

I used a variation on this when making wheels for the cannon on my Unicorn. The kit only supplied twelve wheels for 32 guns. :huh: At the time I did not have a lathe only a mini drill and press (Black and Decker). So I sawed off the wheel blanks from dowel. Next I clamped the machine vice on the press, put an off cut of wood in the vice and drilled a hole in the wood to match the outside diameter of the wheel blanks and just deep enough to accommodate a blank. Then without disturbing this wood or the vice, I put an axle size bit in the drill. The process then was to drop a blank in to the hole and drill the centre - I held the blanks down with a chicken stick to stop them rocking. Within 10 to 15  minutes I had 116 concentrically drilled wheels.   :D

 

Ian M.


Edited by ianmajor, 15 April 2013 - 04:01 PM.

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Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 


#42
JPett

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Ahoy Mates :D

 

As someone whose log documents a plethora of mistakes, I would like to add my thanks to those who took the time to share their expertise “Thank You” :)

 

I was however, kind of thinking the mistakes would taper off a bit as my skills developed. It looks as if we just get better at making them.

 

 


 On with the Show.... B) 

 

  J.Pett

 

“If you're going through hell, keep going” (Winston Churchill)

 

Current build:  MS Rattlesnake (MS2028)

http://modelshipworl...28-scale-164th/

 

Side Build: HMS Victory: Corel

http://modelshipworl...l-198/?p=104762

 

On the back burner:  1949 Chris Craft Racer: Dumas

http://modelshipworl...as-kit-no-1702/

 

Sometime, but not sure when: Frigate Berlin: Corel

http://www.corel-srl.it/pdf/berlin.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 


#43
Kevin

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that is such a cleaver idea, how many times have i drilled off set holes into doweling


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All the best

Kevin

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#44
gieb8688

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Fantastic thread.  Yet another reason to love this site!!  Thank you all for sharing.  This has been particuarly helpful to me as I am doing restorations!  Please keep the ideas coming!!

Thanks,

Mark


Current Build -

1/78 Sergal HMS Victory Restoration

 

On The Shelf -

USS Perry Restoration

Marseille


#45
mtaylor

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Ian,

 

Could you post your dowel drilling tip as it's own thread.  I think this one deserves to be broken out as it's not really a "fix" as such.


Mark

"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me


Current Build:

Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0

Past Builds:
Triton Cross-Section
USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War (Gallery) Build Log
Wasa (Gallery)


Member of the Nautical Research Guild


#46
ianmajor

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Mark,

Will do in the morning. Only intended this to build on Sarah's entry. :)

 

Ian M.


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Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 


#47
Dan Vadas

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Rebate Cut on Wrong Side of Mark

 

Here's my latest Boo-Boo, and one I think a lot of modellers have done at least once.

 

I was cutting the Rebates for the Rudder Gudgeons on my Vulture. I'd marked the TOP side of each rebate and cut the lower four. The uppermost one was very difficult to get to in the normal position, so I turned the model up-side down (I have a special cradle for doing this).

 

Then I proceeded to cut the rebate - THE SAME WAY I'D DONE THE OTHERS - which of course was totally WRONG

goof.gif .
 
Unfortunately I didn't take a picture of my goof-up before I started fixing it, so just picture a big gap where there should be NO gap.
 
To fix the problem I cut a thin sliver of the same wood I'd made the sternpost from. Making sure the grain was running in the right direction I glued it in with PVA and let it dry thoroughly :
 
Gudgeons 001.jpg
 
A bit of careful sanding and NO MORE GAP :D  :
 
Gudgeons 003.jpg
Gudgeons 004.jpg
 
:cheers:  Danny

  • mtaylor, WackoWolf, sonicmcdude and 4 others like this

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Build Logs : Norfolk Sloop   18 foot Cutter    HMS Vulture Scratchbuilt from TFFM books Index 1   Index 2

 

18th Century Longboat in a BOTTLE

 

Restorations for Others :  King of the Mississippi  HMS Victory

Gallery : Norfolk Sloop, HMAT Supply, HMS Bounty, HMS Victory, Charles W. Morgan 18' Cutter for HMS Vulture HMS Vulture

 

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Other Previous Builds : Le Mirage, Norske Love, King of the Mississippi

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#48
Jim Lad

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Crikey, Danny, I thought I was the only one who did that sort of thing!

 

John



#49
S.Coleman

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I had used the saw dust a couple of times and done the broken masthead. But tnat was great to read. Thanks,
Regards, Scott

Current build: 1:75 Friesland, Mamoli

Completed builds:
1:64 Rattlesnake, Mamoli
1:64 HMS Bounty, Mamoli
1:54 Adventure, Amati
1:80 King of the Mississippi, AL
1:64 Blue Shadow, Mamoli
1:64 Leida Dutch pleasure boat, Corel
1:60 HMS President Mantra, Sergal

Awaiting construction:
1:89 Hermione La Fayette AL
1:48 Perserverance, Modelers shipyard

#50
Modeler12

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The kit for my USS Constitution just said something like: 'bond the riding bits to the deck . . .'. So I did.

 

But when I belayed some lines to one of them, the post and file rail broke loose. 

riding bits.jpg

The way I fixed it was to epoxy a steel pin (brad nail) into a hole I drilled (about 1/4 inch deep) and drilled a similar hole through the deck. Some more epoxy into the hole and the thing should be a lot stronger than simply edge gluing a post to the deck.
BTW ignore the brass 'cover'; it represents the hole to lift gun powder up to the deck. The hole for the pin has a pencil mark.

 

riding bit 2.jpg

I may run into more as I go along with the rigging, but if I had to start from scratch the posts would be embedded with a square hole through the deck in the first place.


Edited by Modeler12, 23 May 2013 - 01:08 AM.

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Jay

 

Current build Cross Section USS Constitution  http://modelshipworl...s-constitution/

Finished USS Constitution:  http://modelshipworl...n-by-modeler12/

 

'A picture is worth a  . . . . .'      More is better . . . .


#51
helmsman

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The kit for my USS Constitution just said something like: 'bond the riding bits to the deck . . .'. So I did.

 

But when I belayed some lines to one of them, the post and file rail broke loose. 

attachicon.gifriding bits.jpg

The way I fixed it was to epoxy a steel pin (brad nail) into a hole I drilled (about 1/4 inch deep) and drilled a similar hole through the deck. Some more epoxy into the hole and the thing should be a lot stronger than simply edge gluing a post to the deck.

 

attachicon.gifriding bit 2.jpg

I may run into more as I go along with the rigging, but if I had to start from scratch the posts would be embedded with a square hole through the deck in the first place.

 

good to know Jay, I'll remember that one.


Jeff Toma

Current Build: Model Shipways USS Constitution


#52
capnharv2

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Thanks for the tip Jay. I used to glue things to the hull (and nothing else), but the joint often failed. Now, for most deck furniture (especially if will get loaded later) I put a pin in like you did.

 

Harvey


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#53
Modeler12

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Harvey, when I think about it, attaching some of the deck 'furniture' should be embedded. Our plans call for the hatch covers to be placed on 'beams' and the deck planking to go around them. But I think the fife rails and posts are even more important. Even Harold Hahn would sometimes leave part of a hull plank out and install the channels so they would be 'embedded'. I now make it a habit to install eyebolts that can be pulled out with epoxy rather than CA.

 

This is my first major model but I am learning a lot for my next project and this is one.


Jay

 

Current build Cross Section USS Constitution  http://modelshipworl...s-constitution/

Finished USS Constitution:  http://modelshipworl...n-by-modeler12/

 

'A picture is worth a  . . . . .'      More is better . . . .


#54
Geoff Matson

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Jay

 

I pinned mine with small brass pins. But thanks for the tip and I am sure it will help out other modelers.


Geoff
Current build : USS Constitution

 

Finished builds: Armed Virginia Sloop (in gallery)


#55
S.Coleman

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Same, small brass nails. I had the same problem on my rattlesnake. Also it works great when in staling the yards to the masts. It holds the yard in place while you wrap the rope around.
Regards, Scott

Current build: 1:75 Friesland, Mamoli

Completed builds:
1:64 Rattlesnake, Mamoli
1:64 HMS Bounty, Mamoli
1:54 Adventure, Amati
1:80 King of the Mississippi, AL
1:64 Blue Shadow, Mamoli
1:64 Leida Dutch pleasure boat, Corel
1:60 HMS President Mantra, Sergal

Awaiting construction:
1:89 Hermione La Fayette AL
1:48 Perserverance, Modelers shipyard

#56
tigerdvr

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Great information in the Boo-Boos and Oopsies section, thanks for sharing your experience Dan.

 

Cheers, Harley


Cheers, Harley<p>[size=3]Syren completed, preparation underway to begin Confederacy Frigate on new slip setup.

#57
BareHook

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Attach rigging or strope blocks to eyebolts before installing the eyebolts in the hull or deck.


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Current Build: Authentic Hannah Kit Bash

Pending Continuation: Sea of Galilee Boat

 

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On Shelf: AL Independence, Blue Jacket Alfred


#58
Tony Romano

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A wise man learns from his misstakes. A genious learns from the misstakes of others.
I cant remember who said that but I love the thread.
Erik

 
That is why I am reading this at 1:16am! Glad to know I am not alone in the "what the heck did I do here?" club!
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Tony

Sugar Land, Texas

#59
Marcus Botanicus

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The masthead snapped off clean at the collar, leaving the already attached rigging just hanging.
 
I had to strip off all the rigging for a start, then I carefully drilled a No.78 drill hole in each section of the mast and inserted a length of wire into the lower section, added some glue, and slipped the broken upper section back into place over the projecting wire - presto, just like a new one!John


I did the exact same thing with the Yacht "Mary" and the wire inserted ion both ends makes it look like new.

 

Marc


Commission for my sister: Cape Cod Catboat

On hold: Fairing the frames Statenjacht 'Utrecht'
Research, CAD drawings of the The Ships of Abel Tasman; the yacht 'Heemskerck'
Future: 17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships; Boyer, Galliot, Kaag, & Pink (1:48)

Unofficial motto of the VOC: "God is good, but trade is better"

#60
Nenad

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Sanding hull tooo hardly, sometimes without thinking , and result is - too much thinned cutwater ( it has to be 4-4,5 mm and it is 3,5 mm). Also, bow must be redone by Campbell plans, so it is time to correct this boo-boo

 

01.jpg

 

after correcting bow, I added two layers on both sides of mahogany veneer thined more than a half to reach  "strong" 4mm

 

02.jpg

 

Little correction with putty in front and paint cover this boo at all. The rest will be covered with coopering

 

03.jpg


Edited by Nenad M, 21 January 2014 - 01:50 PM.

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In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworl...ge-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworl...-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic





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