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While waiting for more lumber to continue with Cheerful, I ordered the windlass kit from Chuck.  It's very neatly organized and the pieces (50 +) are very small.  The most impressive pieces IMO are the sprockets.  I could never do them from scratch with the tools I have.

For the sides of the barrel parts, the instructions just say to bevel them.  I need to be more precise if I want it to look anywhere near as nice as Chuck's illustration.  I cut a jig from some scrap to the exact angle of the eight pieces (22.5  degrees).  For those interested, each angle for an (any)  sided piece is determined by dividing the number of sides (8) into 360 degrees = 45.  The bevel on each piece will be half of that number = 22.5 degrees so that when they mate, you get 45 degrees.  By holding the barrel sides against the jig while moving it back and forth over a sanding stick results in the exact 22.5 degree bevel.  I sanded them down to just being able to see the laser char on one edge, but when assembled, they were just a hair too wide.  I think you have to sand to the point where the char is just no longer visible.  Once sanded, I rubbed a pencil along the inside angle so I could see to line up when gluing to the octagonal end pieces.  I started with section "C" as it is the largest part of the barrel and best for ramping up the learning curve.  Holding the little pieces is tough.

Maury

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I am going to paint my windlass red... just in case you are wondering.   It would be easier to do before you assemble the individual completed sections of the drum.   It looks like a promising start so far.  Yes it was designed so that you could use the laser char to gauge when you are done beveling.  It should all be gone from the edge when you are done...but just barely.   I also icluded an extra face or two for some segments.  But let me know if you need additional for boo-boos.

 

I just used an emery board that was 1 inch wide with a medium grit to create the bevel while holding the faces between two fingers.  Basically eye-balling it.  Your method seems much more accurate.  But if you do plan on painting it red...you can fill the few cracks and seems that may be there.

 

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Chuck

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Barrel part C.  I took the first attempt apart (that's why they invented isopropyl), and sanded just a hair more off each long edge using the 22.5 degree bevel jig.  They fit nicely this time.  Snug to the octagonal supports.  Lining up the ends of the first side perfectly on the octagon pieces insures everything else coming together.  The smaller barrel parts will be a different challenge.  Going back to work on the Echo Section http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/513-echo-cross-section-by-maury/ soon, so the windlass is probably on hold for a while.

Maury

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  • 4 weeks later...

While waiting on more glue to dry, I put a few more pieces of the windlass together.   I learned a little trick (after too many tries).  Getting the octagonal piece to stay square with the axle while gluing on the faces is awkward.  By holding the octagonal piece on the axle against the already assembled gear section on the axle, there is a  solid,  square base for gluing.  Just don't let the two sections get glued together just yet.   Hard to explain, but it worked well on the section D I just assembled.  I love this little kit.  Chuck is a genius.

Maury

 

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Thanks for all the likes and comments.  The windlass is finished.  Only one goof.  Can you spot it?   The holes for the handles on the two outer pieces are out of alignment with those on the center piece.  When you assemble each barrel, it would be good to start each one with either the solid or holed face lined up with a square side of the axle and keep it constant.  Since the two outer pieces are the same, I don't think I have to take it apart.  Warning...some of the pieces are VERY SMALL.  It's a great addition to the Cutter Cheerful plans.

Maury

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That looks very good,  Well done.   If you decide to take it apart and break anything.  Let me know.  I will send you the replacement parts to fix it up good.   :)

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