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bridgman

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About bridgman

  • Birthday 08/28/1938

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    Macomb, IL

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  1. The wobble blade method of cutting dados has been pretty much abandon by full sized woodworkers for all of the above objections. It's a cheap method compared to the preferred method stacked blades to obtain the desired width, which is more accurate and results in a better finish of the dado. The stacked blades have a smaller diameter, fewer teeth a larger gullets for better material removal. MicroMarks supplying accessories for their "doll house saws". Bridgman {bellow zero} Bob
  2. Use the existing deck as a pattern, make a temporary pattern from paper, card stock, whats avaiable that's easy to work with. Insert pattern and trim as need to lay flat. Transfer final shape to deck and make any final adjustments. Bridgman Bob
  3. Boerscht has realy crafted a beautiful and finally crafted model, and has moved on to the world of larger models! Unfortunately, the Amati kit, and others, are inaccurate in the depiction of J class yachts and other America Cup racers. The Midest Products kit, 2003, is much closer to realaty. The Endeavour''s owner T.O.M. Sopwith, aiecraft designer, had all Endeavour's rigging repalced with stranded wire, and the "latest" high tech electronics installed. Most o fthe deck layout is close except for the brass hand rails at the deck edge, they would have been some type of wood. These were competive racers where money was no object, Endeavors hull was made of steel. I had a similar problem in building the Mamoli kit of the 1885 cup racer, Puritan, where the entire deck furniture had to be reseadched and replaced. A beautiful model Boerscht. Bridgman Bob
  4. Beware of the "doll house table saws"! If you have any experience with any full sized table saw you will be appalled with the sloppy fitting of their parts fences , miter gauges for example.. Buy one if you are up to work arounds to make them do what you want! Been there done that. Bridgman Bob
  5. Always enjoyed your posts and seeing your work, look forward to more! Bridgman Bob
  6. Confronted with similar fabrication question on my 1:50 scale Puritan, I fell back on my local Ace hardware, more out of curiosity than any real expectation. Searching thru the metric hardware bins found 1.6mm diameter washers of stainless steel. Good size match and were able to solder to eye bolts. No shipping costs or waiting, and able to pick out the ones I thought were the best. Bridgman Bob
  7. The features Roger mentions are critical for proper and useful operation of a band saw, even more so than motor power. They will permit setting up the saw correctly and allow for accurate usage. Bridgman Bob
  8. Usually for anchoring situations, chain was used next to the anchor to take the potential of damage from lying on the bottom. The rest of the rode would have been hemp to absorb and flex with the strain shock loads. Photos show the anchor on deck where the chain is fasten to it. Good point about Bluenose being a "racing schooner", probably would not have the anchor chain on board during a race. Bridgman Bob
  9. Steve Thanks for the tip on YKL and Gutermann, unaware of those colors. Should be easier to work than bead wire! Bridgman Bob
  10. Copper powder is a component of modern day bottom paint. It is mixed into the binder before the paint is applied. The power is a fine as face power, and I still have tools that are stained by it, doesn't wipe off. A common component of Interlux bottom paints, don't know if it's sold separately. You might have to haunt the boat yards this spring looking for a possible sample. Bridgman Bob
  11. Kit instruction for 1:50, 1885 Puritan call for o.5mm "metal plait" material for shrouds and stays. Material that came with kit looks like a braided wire, gray color, flat, and less than a millimeter wide. Have not worked with this type of material for rigging not sure how to make end terminations at mast, dead eyes and other terminations. Material is pliable and twists easily, but not sure how to finish it off neatly. Also looked at beading wire of similar diameter as it is pliable and easily knotted and available. Suggestions, recommendations would be helpful! Or, I just may revert to non-metallic material. Bridgman Bob
  12. John: Still struggling to finish my Puritan, how did you handle the rigging, plans, plans call for "o.5mm metal', I've never worked with material and am looking for methods, procedures to do so. Came across some beading wire of various sizes, that is actually stranded and flexible enough to knot. My be easiest to revert to usual fiber material. Bridgman Bob
  13. Mr. Bean: Translation from my Mamoli Puritan kit: OTN=brass, CO=hemp rope{?}, NO= walnut. The instructions lists 22 other codes. Cross checked with my instruction for my America kit and they are the same. Instructions are printed on the inside of the folder that held the drawings mines in taters, but mostly usable. Plans require close inspection as they contain details not mentioned in the directions. Found the kit enjoyable and resulting in a nice model. I cheated by having my sails sown by a quilter friend, she didn't like the supplied material! Bridgman Bob
  14. Bob: Thanks for the surgical knot tying video, just whatI need for fastening 2 to 5 mm blocks. Bridgman Bob
  15. The next time you visit your friendly dentist ask him if he has any of those micro files they use on root canals. They come to a needle point and are about 2'' long, though and sharp, with differing diameters and are disposed of after a single use. Great for reaming holes in mimi Blocks, and if you are brave, they work in a Dremil tool chuck. A further question is how best to run rigging lines thru blocks that are mounted on various locations on a model, deck, railing, mast fittings that are almost inaccessible? A timely question for my current stage of build. Bridgman bob
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