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FredSC

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  • Location
    Finger Lakes, NY
  • Interests
    golf, orchids, model ships

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  1. Thistle17

    I realized that I can contact other upper NYS folk on MSW through the “Community” function. Here is an out-reach I am planning to send to about 35 folk as far away as the Albany area. Have any comments or suggestions.?

    Joe

     

    Allow me to introduce our model ship group located in Rochester NY to you. We are a small group that was founded in late 2015. We have members in Buffalo, Rochester, Syracuse, Florida, and even one in Lisbon Portugal. We meet monthly and through the Zoom application we have been able to include our more distant members. You can learn more about us by visiting our web site modelshipwrightguildwny.org.

    We have located you through the “Community” drop down function on the Model Ship World forum and are reaching out to explore your possible interest and participation in a lively and talented group of modelers from all walks of life.

    Generally, sessions are structured with introductions of visitors, followed by a brief business segment and then we almost always have a central presentation topic or two ending with a show and tell of group models. The sessions usually last two hours.

    So you are invited to visit us (tune in via Zoom) this Fall and see what we are all about. You might find us interesting enough to join us on a more consistent basis. Please PM me, with your email address or cell, and I will put you on distribution for our Fall schedule.

    We will not badger you beyond this outreach if you are not interested.

    Hoping to hear from you.

    Thistle17 (Joe)

    1. FredSC

      FredSC

      Thanks, Joe.  I am interested, lively enough, not so talented, but keep working on it.  I'm on my 4th build, H.M. Granado 1756.  If you saw the results you would know I'm a long way from even moderately proficient  Due to a move from SC to Ithaca, NY (and other stuff) I still haven't finished her, but hope to soon.  I have long wished for a nearby club and look forward to hearing about y'all.

      email: fnicoll@hargray.com

      Fred 

  2. FredSC
    Thanks, Bob. I've got it. You'd think I would be used to awkward by now. Good luck with Speedy. Fred
  3. FredSC
    I started Granado in 2014 (long story). Like anything left for a long time you forget what you were doing and how you were doing it. I've been reviewing your log and it seems that everyone who has done a Granado log has done an amazing job. Right now I'm stuck attaching the Spritsail yard standing lift. Are there one or two 30mm pendants from the yard attached to a 3mm deadeye lashed to the bowsprit? From the directions, it looks like 2, but then there would have to be two deadeyes lashed to the bowsprit, which looks like it would be a little awkward. Can't tell from your photos and would appreciate advice. Fred
  4. FredSC

    Still limping along with Granado.  I'm about to step the masts.  The manual says to first "temporarily drill and pin the yards in place on the masts".  The yards are then removed until later.  Question:  what is the point of the drilling and pinning since it doesn't seem to relate to the later attachment of the yards?  Can it be safely omitted or will I regret it if I don't do it?

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. FredSC

      FredSC

      Thanks.  Unfortunately, I'm more confused.  What holes are you referring to for "pinning them" (what, the yards?) in advance"?  This implies that at some point the yards are pinned to the masts, although the manual doesn't say they are.  ???

    3. jwvolz

      jwvolz

      Some people (not all) drill holes in the masts to accept yards with pins. I do it. It makes it easier to rig things that way without having to worry about having to use the rigging to keep everything square and straight. I highly recommend doing it that way. I'd drill the holes in the mast now off the model, but leave the yards off until all of the standing rigging is finished. 

       

      Hope that's clearer.

    4. FredSC

      FredSC

      Thanks, Joe.  Much clearer.

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  13. FredSC
    Alan, I don't have a table saw and I'm not getting one. Even so, there must be a half dozen morals to your story. Thanks for sharing them and I hope you heal up fast. My Dremel Micro is about all the power I can handle. Fred
  14.    FredSC reacted to a post in a topic: My New Found Respect for Table Saws
  15. FredSC
    Richard, Great idea, but isn't it awkward when you get up for a beer, lunch, whatever?
  16. FredSC
    Take a look at Timmo's and Joe V's Caldercraft Grenado build logs. They are spectacular. I'm doing Grenado now (not at all spectacular) and think Caldercraft has put together a fine kit. I wouldn't know how to compare it to the Victory kit without having done that too.
  17.    FredSC reacted to a post in a topic: American sailing warships with no plans or records
  18. FredSC
    I just saw your query. I certainly can't answer it, but I know that I share your issue. I'm guessing that the "answer" may be what you are happy with. Purists might say that every detail must be perfect, whether it can be seen or not. I can't do that, but for now, I'm happy with the best that I can do. Maybe with more experience, more help from others here, who knows.... But it is fun doing it, and that matters.
  19. FredSC
    Hi, Christine. To each his (or her) own, and I'm sure some people have good results with nails. I never have; the planks split; the nails won't go in; etc. There are commercially available planking vises, or, as JM suggests, you could make your own. After you have soaked the planks and bent them with an iron, a commercially available plank bender (sort of like a soldering iron with a round attachment on the end, a tool that crimps the back side (that I have found works pretty well), or something else; after the planks are bent, gluing and clamping should do the job. Good luck.
  20. FredSC
    Ron, All really good points.
  21. FredSC
    Just got the NWSL "Chopper II" It is obviously much sturdier than the Micro-Mark "Chop-It" and the cutting arm exhibits no sway (result of not long use of "Chop-It" shown below). As others have noted ,since the surface is a movable and replaceable cutting mat (as opposed to fiberboard), grooving of the surface should not be a problem. Since the "Chopper II" differs from the NWSL original "Chopper", direct comparison with the alleged MM "Chop-It" knock-off is not possible. However, just on the face of it, "Chopper II" is a far superior tool.
  22. FredSC
    Andy, If yours is the Micro-Mark, I'm not sure how you could have tightened the handle. No matter how much I tried, I couldn't tighten it enough to eliminate the wobble that left I deep v in the base. My new NWSL "Chopper II" should arrive any day.
  23. FredSC
    So as not to pile on Micro-Mark, I'll keep this factual and let everyone draw their own conclusions. A couple of years ago I purchased the Micro-Mark "Chop-It", unaware, as with many other things, that there were alternatives for the same function. The base of the "Chop-It" appears to be fiberboard. The way the cutting arm is attached results in a slight, inherent wobble. The consequence of these two factors is that after brief use, the fiberboard is deeply scored. This results in bending the piece before it is cut. The way the blades fit, they appear to be specially made. It was only about a week ago in following an MSW thread that I learned that NorthWest Short Line (as the name implies, supplying railroad modelers) sells "The Chopper" and "Chopper II". The MM "Chop-It" appears remarkably similar to the NWSL "Chopper". It further appears that the NWSL folks believe that MM unfairly copied their "Chopper"and are selling an inferior knock-off (see hornet 3/26/15 post). Because I find the MM "Chop-It" unsatisfactory, today I ordered the NWSL "Chopper II" Product review to follow after it arrives. P.S. If I could realistically look forward to another 20 years or more of modelling, I'd almost certainly purchase the full line of Jim Byrnes power tools and really get into it. Alas, .... So, it seems the thing to do is get the right hand tools (plus the Dremel rotary) to build the best possible models from kits.
  24. FredSC
    Mihal, terrific work. I'll have to add Pegasus to my, growing, list of builds to do.
  25. FredSC
    Thanks, Derek. That sound like a good way to do it.

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