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rhephner

NRG Member
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About rhephner

  • Birthday 05/24/1973

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Charlottesville, VA
  • Interests
    Model Ship Building, Raising Kids, Computer Programming

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  1. @Bob Cleek Thanks for the thorough explanation. You've opened my eyes to new possibilities for paint I didn't see before. I appreciate the response.
  2. Thanks for the reply. For what it’s worth, the Badger looks more accurate. It’s darker. But you’re correct, it would be very difficult to say the least to repaint now.
  3. I guess I naively thought that O-5 gray would be the same color no matter what brand. It should be based on the same historic paint color right? Not even close.
  4. A couple of years ago I bought several jars of o-5 ocean gray paint from Model Masters. I’m now close to the end of my project and almost out of paint. Problem is, Model Master is discontinued. I replaced it with badger brand o-5 ocean gray, but it doesn’t match. any suggestions for how to match the paint? I really can’t repaint everything.
  5. Thanks! I did not include the first two strakes in the lower belt. However, your build log is making me realize I'm not off as much as I thought. That helps me gain the courage to keep going. I also plan to steal your idea for plank clamps.
  6. Hello All, I'm working on NRG's half-hull planking project to bring my planking capabilities to the next level. However, I'm stymied by the planking belts. I've completed the first plank above the broad plank, but it doesn't look like I can fit three more planks in that belt without them being veeeery narrow on the bow end. If I increase the size of the lower belt, then I'm afraid I'll end up with a smiley face. The picture below illustrates my problem. You can tell be the marks that I've also redrawn the belts several times. Suggestions?
  7. Just curious is anyone has any experience with Worx Makerx tools. I'm particularly interested in the airbrush, which appears to be battery operated and doesn't require an air compressor. Seems too good to be true. They also have a heat gun, rotary tool, and soldering iron. All working off the same battery system. https://www.worx.com/makerx/makerx-crafting-tools.html Rich
  8. I'd like to vote for the octagonal method. I've tried the homemade lathe/cordless drill method, but it can take a lot of sanding to get it to where you want it (depending on the wood). What I do now is take a regular old #11 blade to carve down the ends using the octagonal method and then sand it round by hand. There is a fair amount of eyeballing to this method, but you'd only be able to tell if you checked it with your digital calipers.
  9. Regarding how well the copper tape sticks, I've had trouble getting mine to stay put. It's not the most adhesive stuff in the world. Admittedly, I've done little to prepare the surface as suggested. I usually fix the issue with a dab of CA at the ends.
  10. Oh wow. That’s awesome. Thank you so much for researching it. I’ve looked at those pictures before, but totally missed it somehow. Thanks Talos
  11. Hadn't heard about Bainbridge. My understanding is that they used the Kidd. https://www.military.com/off-duty/2020/07/07/true-story-of-uss-kidd-ship-used-film-greyhound.html I enjoyed the movie even though they used a Fletcher and square bridged one at that. That left me joyfully proud of myself that I had caught the error. Still, I thought they captured the spirit of the Battle of the Atlantic, consistent with my reading of "The Cruel Sea", even with some artistic license. Rich
  12. This is a fascinating build. I’m not much of a car guy, but the attention to detail on these kits make them look like a ton of fun to build. From reading up on them, I was under the impression that they were mostly metal and rubber fastened together with miniature bolts, hence the high price. But I see a lot of plastic parts and CA glue in the build log. Are they really mostly metal?
  13. Thanks all for the replies. You’ve convinced me to try to replicate with a fine grained sand paper. I’ll probably paint it the same blue as the deck, maybe a shade darker. I knew someone on here would have first hand experience. Thank you for sharing it. Nunnhi, thanks for the photo. I hope mine turns out as well.
  14. Hi All, I'm slowly but sure working on a scratch build of the USS O'Bannon in 1/144 scale and have a question about the deck. So far, many areas look a little plain, particularly in the bow just behind the anchor chains and windlass. I'm wondering if I should include seams for the deck plating or in some cases, I've seen pictures where there is a "pathway" of a slightly darker shade that seems to go around the deck almost like a sidewalk painted on the deck. Any ideas on what that is and whether it would be appropriate for the O'Bannon? Here is an example: and another: (Sorry if I'm getting the terms wrong. I'm not a native speaker of Naval lingo.) Thanks.
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