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AnobiumPunctatum

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About AnobiumPunctatum

  • Birthday 10/05/1964

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Duisburg, Germany
  • Interests
    English ship building during the War of American Revolution
    Klinker build ship of the medieval

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  1. I don't think so. In my opinion is the purpose of the drawing to show the differences between the standard frameing sheme (doulble frame followed by two single frames) and the sheme which was used for Kingfisher in the midship area. Interesting is also the triple frame midships.
  2. Ah, the midship frames from Kingfisher. For the first. Ships of the class the frameing design, which was introduced with Cygnet is not correct. I am busy with another Swan Class Fly. For this ship the Cygnet design is with some small adjustments possible.
  3. Hi Kris, I am really happy that you continue with your reconstruction of ths beautyful viking ship. I will follow as in the last years with great interest.
  4. If I see your new kit and some frome CAF and other manufacturers I asked myself why I started scratch building. Really wonderful with a lot of innovative ideas.
  5. I disagree with your meaning, @Dr PR . I have reconstructed until know 3 different ships in 2D and for the first one most of the frames build following my 2D drawings. Everything is fitting really well. I also checked my 2D reconstruction with 3D models with the help of a colleague and there are also no waves. For construction in 2D it is really important to check the hull with buttock and horizontal lines. If you forget the buttock line it can produce waves. I am in the moment busy with the frame drawings for the sloop Fly and I am quite sure that the hull will also be smooth. For my CNC I give later a few tens of a millimeter to allow some tolerances during the build. These are the biggest inaccuracies.
  6. As the weather has been nice over the last two weeks, I've swapped my little shipyard for my bike. As a result, I haven't got as far as I had planned. As I wrote in the last part, I want to try a different technique for the after deadwood, especially to avoid milling on both sides. Firstly, the individual components of the deadwood are milled once with the correct side and once mirrored. In order to be able to glue the two sides together later, recesses are milled into which fitting pieces are glued before gluing them together. The next picture shows the components removed from the board and trimmed. Before gluing them together, a few small curves that inevitably result from the milling cutter must be removed. I do this with my little Proxxon. The last picture shows the individual components after gluing them together. A weak point became apparent when machining the parts. The direction of the wood grain of the tabs, which are used to position the finished component on the keel, follows the overall part. It would have been better to mill the tabs separately and rotate the grain by 90°. This would have made the components much less susceptible to breakage. In the next part of the report, both sides of the deadwood parts will be milled and the deadwood glued together.
  7. Thank you, Chuck and all others for the Likes. I hope that I can finish the aft deadwood this weekend.
  8. The first component for the backbone of the Alert is the Fore Deadwood. This was milled from a piece of boxwood. Even though I am very happy with the finished part, I will use a different technique for the aft deadwood. Before I could hold the finished part in my hands, I had a few failed attempts. With a much more complicated component, this method is unlikely to work satisfactorily.
  9. In Europe the first choice for builing models is pear wood. There are some compnies in the markt to buy the timber.
  10. This looks like a very promising start and interesting build. I will follow you with great interest
  11. Thanks for sharing this picture @druxey. It's interesting to see how complex the construction of the fireship is.
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