Jump to content

Kelp

Members
  • Posts

    106
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Diego, CA

Recent Profile Visitors

1,307 profile views
  1. Marek, A fantastic looking build. You are a true master of the ship modeling craft. Don
  2. David, I agree with David G. The 1/350 Minicraft Titanic is in the size range you are looking for and is a good quality kit. You have a couple of options with this kit; the base kit, the Deluxe version, which includes photo etched railings, or, if you want more detail besides the railings, go with the Tom’s Modelworks Titanic photoetch set. Don
  3. Are you thinking of building a wood or a plastic kit?
  4. I have heard of rubbing alcohol also being used to clean the plastic parts. Any comments on the use of alcohol vs. dish soap?
  5. Evan, What a fantastic idea to show some of the framing! Your model is the only one I have seen which has included framing. Very creative, and it looks terrific! Roger, Thanks for pointing out to me the plating detail which shows the packing pieces. This clarified my question on how this was built. Don (kelp)
  6. Quoting Titanic the Ship Magnificent, “ As stated previously, the bottom frames were joggled in clinker fashion. This was done to eliminate the use of the tapered packing pieces ordinarily associated with this type of plating”. I would now like to find a photo of a hull bottom with “packing pieces” so we can compare the two methods.
  7. Evan, I found this drawing of the lower hull plating in the Titanic the Ship Magnificent book, Figure 4-10. Don
  8. There is a 1:570 Revell Titanic kit that is still fairly easy to find. There is also a 1:1200 scale Revell Queen Mary 2 and also a 1:570 scale kit of the Queen Mary (the older 3 funnel Queen Mary).
  9. Hi Evan, Thanks for taking time to show me how the fiber optic cable would look in the porthole. I am leaning towards this method. The Midwest Model Shop’s fiber optic portholes looked nice when he turned on the LEDs. Don
  10. Evan, The hawse hole project is coming along nicely! I’m planning ahead for the porthole windows and will go with either the fiber optics as you have mentioned and as the Midwest Model Shop used. My other option would be to place acetate to the inside of the hull across the porthole locations. A possible problem with this method is the thickness of the hull plastic. The acetate maybe too far behind the surface of the hull to look realistic. I can’t say for sure, since I haven’t drilled out the portholes yet. Can you post a photo showing a sample of what the fiber optic porthole looks like? Nice progress on your model! Don
  11. Hello Wefalck, I have just looked at a model of the Titanic, and yes, what you have said is very true in Titanic’s case. The waterline on the model appears to sag on each end. Having the slight curvature would eliminate this illusion. I had always thought waterlines were perfectly horizontal, and am now seeing situations were that isn’t necessarily the case, where cargo loading and simple aesthetics come into play to want to give the waterline a curve. Thanks for your reply. Don
×
×
  • Create New...