ulrich
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Posts
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GrandpaPhil reacted to a post in a topic:
Mamoli
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Looking at an older kit of Mamoli's Gretel, CM stands for Mahogany Plywood. Hope this will help. Ulrich
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ulrich reacted to a post in a topic:
Best result on a single-planked hull
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ulrich reacted to a post in a topic:
Cut and Paste - downloadable e-book featuring the work of Ab Hoving
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ulrich reacted to a post in a topic:
Ottoman Ship of the Line Mahmudiye by GeorgeKapas - FINISHED - 1/350
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ulrich reacted to a post in a topic:
Ottoman Ship of the Line Mahmudiye by GeorgeKapas - FINISHED - 1/350
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ulrich reacted to a post in a topic:
Statenjacht by Melissa T. - FINISHED - Kolderstok - Scale 1:50
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Jeremy vdb reacted to a post in a topic:
Question about Mantua Sergal 1/78 scale Cutty Sark.
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Question about Mantua Sergal 1/78 scale Cutty Sark.
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Question about Mantua Sergal 1/78 scale Cutty Sark.
ulrich replied to Barry Rawson's topic in Wood ship model kits
I used all metal parts which are supposed to be used as panels, doors, windows etc. on the deck cabins and hatches as templets to make them out of thin plywood, mahogany, dowels. The larger pieces with the squares to be cut out are attached to the outside of the upper bulwark topped by the hand rail. (See my pics. here). Regards, Ulrich -
ulrich reacted to a post in a topic:
Binnacle for Cheerful? Need drawings of one's used in that size of ship-Help!x
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ulrich reacted to a post in a topic:
Masking tape lifting
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ulrich reacted to a post in a topic:
Chebece 1750 by Jeronimo - FINISHED
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thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic:
What is kit bashing?
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What criteria defines the term "semi scratch" build? Ulrich
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Cutty Sark rigging
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Gregory reacted to a post in a topic:
Cutty Sark rigging
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I purchased the plans (3 sheets) from the Cutty Sark museum in Greenwich, London. They are excellent. Ulrich
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
How to straighten a Bent keel
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davyboy reacted to a post in a topic:
How to straighten a Bent keel
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Hello Riotvan88< I would create a slot to hold the keel to a wood base by gluing 2 square "dowels", as long as the entire keel, wide enough apart to hold the keel tightly. Make sure these square "dowels" a low enough to not interfere with the bottom of the bulkheads. the bow and stern section of the false keel need to be held by square angles up to the top of bow and stern. This should keep the keel straight for now. After you have assembled the bulkheads to the keel you need to glue blocks between each bulkhead to keep it straight. Better would be to fill all the voids between the bulkheads and make it a solid hull. For that, I would use bass wood, no balsa wood. Good luck Ulrich
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I have used several different sizes of chain on my Cutty Sark (1:78), down to about 47 l/in. However, instead of chain for the the sheets, I used bead cord. I obtained this (nylon?) material from my local jewelry store. It comes in diff. colors and sizes and really looks like chain considering the small scale it is to represent. The drawback is that it might twist when its stretched. Ulrich
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MS Katy of Norfolk kit issues and parts replacement
ulrich replied to kearnold's topic in Wood ship model kits
Ahoy everyone, Concerning the flying stay sail on the Katy of Norfolk: can anyone enlighten me were on the fore mast to place the small block (3/32) for the down haul and the bulls eye for the upper tack? Thanks for your help. Ulrich -
Great idea!!! It will make attaching the rat lines easier, faster and more realistic. One (two) question though about the sandpaper: what grit did you use and does the sand paper have any affect on the shroud lines? (ruffing them up?) Ulrich
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Hi, you'all a short update on the issue of parrel beads: I did purchase a bunch of toho beads but it turned out their holes are too large and that does not look right. My friend and mentor from the HRSMS (Hampton Roads Ship Model Society) pointed me in the right direction: take a hardwood dowel (I used holly), pull it through a draw plate to obtain the desired thickness, drill a small hole in the center (don't drill too deep, you might get off center), than cut it to the desired length with a sharp blade (#11), rolling the dowel against it to avoid pressure which could deform the dowel. I also made a small jig to get the same length for all beads. After that, I run these beads for a few seconds in my block tumbler to round their edges. This results in a bead not exactly round but slightly cylindrical. Dipping them into some wood oil will give them a "yellowish" color, same as boxwood (I think). The beads I made are slightly less than one mm in diameter and length which I think is appropriate for a 1/8" scale. Happy modeling Ulrich
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Tony, I made my own some years back using a can with a top (english candy). It is somewhat primitive but it does the job well on blocks, not so well on the wooden parrel beads, when I tried to reduce their size. Regards, Ulrich
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Thanks for all the advise and tips. I don't have a lathe to turn those beads from wood (which would be my first choice). I will try to use the method, Jan describes, using clay. To round them off, I will run them in my block tumbler and see if that works. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again, Ulrich
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Hello everyone! For my current model, I need parrel beads the size around 1/32" or 0.8 to 1.0 mm. I have searched this web site, the internet and went to the lokal hobby store (Michaels) without satisfying results. Does anyone know where to purchase or how to make beads this small? Any help is greatly appreciated. Kind Regards Ulrich
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replacement for blacken it brass?
ulrich replied to rtropp's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
they (Bluejacket) also sell a Brass Browning Solution which I used on their copper plates - looks fantastic! Ulrich -
Making filler harder
ulrich replied to jdiven's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I have mixed Wood Glue and Elmers Wood Filler for a stronger bond - it works well, but will not stain propperly. Ulrich -
Mark, Even though it might be the "best kit available", it leaves much to be desired. I build the old version of this kit (better than the new) and spend more money on additional parts, materials, plans (G.F. Campbell), books etc. than the kit's price. (see pics in my gallery) However, if you want to build the model using the kit only - it is a good kit. Regards, Ulrich
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