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Found 9 results

  1. I started Ranger a month or so ago whilst stuck staying in a hotel for a fortnight’s business trip in one of the UK’s less attractive locations. Made a start, but not a lot of progress and then back on the shelf once home whilst finishing Grecian. This will be my sixth fishing boat from Vanguard and the last of the Vanguard fishing boat range. They are a lovely range of kits. Ranger at first glance seems very similar to the others in terms of being exceptionally high quality, very well designed, superb instructions and an excellent prototype build log on MSW. Ranger is similar in length (both hull and overall) and also width to Erycina, but has a much higher single mast to carry a great deal of sail area as her purpose was not to do the actual fishing but return the catch from the fishing fleet back to port as quickly as possible. Her lines, whilst longer, are not dissimilar to those of Saucy Jack. The MDF skeleton of bulkheads, keel and deck is wonderfully over engineered as usual to give a very robust framework with no risk of warping. Hull was faired, but the curves on this one are very gentle and do not require a lot of sanding. The only thing to note is that the slots in this construction do need a gentle sand to get them to fit properly. I have been spoilt on other Vanguard builds being able to do this initial construction without any sanding, I suspect it’s the norm for most manufacturers. I did, stupidly, try and force a couple of the bulkheads on snapping both a bulkhead and the keel itself - an easily avoidable mistake. They’re all glued back together fine now. Lower stern counter went on well without soaking. Just clamped and glued with PVA. Deck clicks in as usual into the helpful slot at the bottom of each bulkhead ear. Then the bulwarks fitted, as per the instructions with a small nail at the bottom, clamped and glued with PVA, although no glue above deck level as the eats will be removed. Again, no need for soaking due to the gentle shape. Once both sides done, time to start the planking. There’s tapering at the bow but not stern. Only a few planks in, but so far this has been the easiest boat to plank. I think Chris or Jim promised this in the instructions or build log! That’s all I did whilst away. Will restart construction shortly.
  2. I have been asked to make a model of a specific yacht, the yacht is a recent build of a 1930s Sydney design. My previous build logs are both of designs by Cliff Gale, & somewhat inevitably, this is a Cliff Gale design also. Actually, I'm thrilled, & it is a version of his most famous design, or at least his best known design. The yacht herself was built around 2000, & built strip-planked. The original yacht built to this design was called Ranger, & Cliff had her built for himself & his family. They are 24' (7.3m) long & 9'6" (2.9m) beam, so very beamy for a short boat. But they are excellent for their purpose: day sailing in Sydney Harbour, overnighting & near coastal sailing. This one has sailed as far as Tasmania, but with good preparation & picking the suitable weather windows. Since 1933, when the original was launched, around 9 or 10 have been built, some not especially close to the original design. But there's one completed a couple of years ago & another nearing completion, being built by retired shipwright & general legend Ian Smith. I'll let the photos do the talking, & if I think of more things to say I'll add them in following posts. I'll also try to find a couple more good photos of the yacht herself. Launch day, or close to it, I think around 2002. They are great day boats, & sail well with all that sail area. Quite a lot of usable room, for a small boat. Happily, I have the original lines drawings from the build. That's something you don't see very often in this forum....1:1 lines drawings from the actual build. These yachts vary a bit, the original one - Ranger - was adjusted during her build, to increase her load carrying capacity. This yacht, built 65 odd years later, is actually closer to the original designed lines than the first yacht built to the design. There's 3 main lines drawings, here's the first, taped to the dining room floor: The second, sitting on that: And the third: The lines are to the outside of the ribs / inside of planking. Fortunately, there is this doodle on one corner, in the top left side of the 2nd lines drawing: I have traced over these in a series of A1 tracing paper sheets, & they are getting scanned & I will assemble a digital compilation of the lines. Thanks,
  3. Ranger was a Barking Fish Carrier of 52 tons, built in 1864 at Barking, and replaced the old well smacks like Saucy Jack. Fish carriers were always driven hard, and with such perishable cargo as fish, the minutes counted, and these cutters like Ranger could sail to windward faster than any other vessels then afloat. After the cargo had been landed at Billingsgate, the holds were packed with empty fishing boxes. One interesting feature of Ranger was that many of her cross section closely followed those of Saucy Jack, but the length of hull had been greatly increased. A sort of 'stretched' version of her. Length overall was 74 foot, with a beam of 16 foot, 6" The kit This is my sixth fishing boat for Vanguard Models, and the last one for the foreseeable future. It's been a 2yr ride to get to this point with the fisher series, peppered along the way with a few other little projects such as Flirt, Duchess, and Sphinx. Ranger is designed for the total beginner to the hobby as well as those who want to do something a little different and make it 'their own', so to speak. Out of all the fishers, I perhaps feel the curves on this are just right, and the inner bulwark depths, to count this as one of the easiest to fair and plank, if not the easiest of them all. The core of Ranger, like the others, is a combo of 2mm and 3mm MDF. The parts are a cinch to remove from the sheets. There isn't too much pre-bevelling to do on Ranger, but the bevel lines are etched there for you, to make it easier. I always opt to use a Dremel to bevel this stuff, simply because it takes less time when I have deadlines. The bulkheads are now slotted onto the keel. The keel itself has numbers engraved per slot, identifying which bulkhead needs to be inserted. All this is done dry at this stage as glue will be painted into the skeleton later. The sub deck is now slotted into position as shown. Both bow and stern have fairing patterns installed. These are for the box, now shown bevelled. You can see there's not too much work involved in pre-bevel. These are now glued into position up against the keel, but not the bulkheads at this stage. MDF alignment pegs are used to make sure that all it as it should be.
  4. (Image via Model-Expo, from whom I bought the kit). This kit is meant to represent one of many ships built in the early nineteenth century for the US Revenue Marine (fore-runner of today’s Coast Guard). However, no “Ranger” was ever built for that service during this time period, so the model only approximates a real prototype. The closest real vessels, according to my research, seem to be the two Alabama-class topsail schooners built in 1819 (Alabama and Louisiana). This conclusion is based on several factors: Recommendation of the Coast Guard Modeling website Comparison to plans available from the USCG website Dimensions given by USCG fact sheet for USRC Louisiana My own calculations. The resources above list the Alabama-class cutters as having a 52’ keel and 18’-6” beam, while Wikipedia also lists a length on deck of 56’-10”. The table below shows the kit’s measurements (taken from the plans), the kit’s size at full scale converted to feet, the actual dimensions from the sources above in feet, and the difference between the two scaled back down to kit size, in cm. Deck: kit(cm) 28, kit(feet) 62.6, real (feet) 57.0, diffrence (cm) 2.5 Beam: kit(cm) 9, kit(feet) 20.1, real (feet) 18.5, diffrence (cm) 0.7 Keel: kit(cm) 22.5, kit(feet) 50.2, real (feet) 52.0, diffrence (cm) -0.8 The kit does not perfectly match the Alabama-class cutters, most notably in deck length, but it’s closer to those than the other options (the 56’ Surprise class or the 60’ Search class). At this scale, only a true historian of the Revenue Marine will notice that the model is a few centimeters off; as I intend to build it as a fictional ship rather than as Alabama or Louisiana, this will matter even less. The overall hull shape, sail plan, and deck layout seem reasonably similar, and I will probably use the USCG drawing of Louisiana as a guide when the kit plans are uncertain or I prefer the former’s appearance. For example, the USCG drawing shows two swivel-based carronades of different calibers, which I find intriguing, and overall it’s more crisply drawn than the poor-quality photocopy in the kit. I could only find a few previous build logs for this kit, which are listed here for future reference (if I’ve missed one, please inform me): Ranger by matt s.s.: heavy kit-bash of the model into a glorious pirate ship. Ranger by trippwj: unfinished log, not updated since 2014, progress as far as beginning planking; intended to follow plans for the larger Search class vessels. Ranger by Small Stuff: unfinished log, not updated since 2014, many photos missing, progress as far as bulkheads. Ranger by Woodmiester12: unfinished log, not updated since 2015, progress as far as first hull & deck planking. So it looks like I’ll embarking on a fairly new adventure here, the most challenging model I’ve tackled to date, especially with the rather poor instructions in hideous English translation. Some may ask why I’m attempting this somewhat problematic kit when BlueJacket just released what is, by all accounts, a high quality kit of a similar revenue cutter. The answer is quite simple: I purchased this kit before learning of the BlueJacket release. Both I and Mrs Cathead love the look of topsail schooners, and I thought the challenge of working with a foreign kit would be good for developing my skills. Now that I’ve bought it, I’m going to build it. And for those of you wondering why I’m not tackling another steamboat, there is a twofold answer: one, the previous sentence, and two, it’s going to take me significant time to do the research and design necessary for a new scratchbuild. I’d like to do something that doesn’t have plans, like the Missouri River sidewheeler Arabia, and that’s a long-term project. So I’ll work on this revenue cutter in the meantime to keep my hands busy and my skills developing, and work on my steamboat plans in the background.
  5. My Corel Ranger arrived in the post a couple of days ago, and this is my first build. I bought this kit because it was listed as a beginner kit by the online supplier, and I liked the look of it. That was basically it, and I didn't join MSW till after I'd placed the order. So now I know @Cathead, @mattsayers148, @trippwj, @Woodmiester12, @Small Stuff all have tackled this before me (hope I've not not missed anyone) and I've also found https://modelshipworld.com/topic/18657-new-to-ship-modelling-but-what-do-you-build-first/ which suggests Corel might not have been the best choice for a complete newbie. I did consider getting something simpler, but since the kit arrived and I've opened it up, I've decided to crack on. What could possibly go wrong? I figure I can always park it if it gets too much. So this log will be from the perspective of a complete beginner, hopefully it will help someone as inexperienced as I. Step one: open the box. My first impression was was that there were fewer 'bits' than I expected, but there is no parts list. And most of them aren't numbered. The very first sentence in the instruction manual has set the scene, "Glue lath 13 to the bottom of the keel 12". I guess we're not in Ikea anymore. It seems that this is a fictional ship, and is only based on cutters of the period. I think this is probably good news for me. This is more of a learning experience for me than anything else, so I don't have to be too faithful to any particular vessel. I also see that the box and instruction manual say the scale is 1:50, while the plans say 1:64. From other build logs, it seems 1:64 is correct. Not sure yet exactly what challenges this is going to throw up. A bit of arithmetic, presumably I've not attempted any building yet, still just getting a feel for what the kit comprises, going through the instructions and reading up on the build logs here. This might take a while, but that's fine by me. I'm in no rush. By pure coincidence, the same day my Corel Ranger arrived my 12 year old daughter brought home her first ever project from her Technical Studies class at school. She's very pleased with it and I shall keep it beside me for inspiration...
  6. I plan to build a 1:12 model of a 28 foot yacht. This design has never been built, but is a variant of a 24 foot yacht design usually called ‘a Ranger’ (see Wooden Boat magazine issue 227). The first of the type was called Ranger, launched in 1933. They are popular & loved because the design fits the purpose so well: day use on Sydney Harbour, with short coastal trips & overnighting capacity. The design was adapted by the designer to a 32’ ocean-going variant, & also a 28’ ocean-going variant. The 28 footer came 8th on IRC handicap in the 2006 Sydney Hobart Race (see youtube video of her in 2012 in 30-35 knots http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dd9LqrDP510). The design I will build is slimmer & with less buoyancy in the bow than the ocean-going 28 footer. The ‘Ranger’ yachts are generally 24 foot (7.3m) waterline & on deck, with bowsprit, gaff rig & a raised deck. They are very beamy at around 9’6” (2.9m), or a beam/length proportion of about 40%. This version is 28’ & 9’6” beam, so it’s basically stretched, not scaled up. This design is of interest generally because: the smaller ones are admired & loved, at least locally; this 28’ design has never been built; the designer (Cliff Gale) was a self-taught boat designer & in his day was considered one of Sydney’s best yachtsman. But it’s also personal: I’m lucky enough to have one of the 24 footers. I love the design, that they can be so beamy yet look good & sail so well, & they are a terrific motor boat as well. They sail well in 5 knots & can also sail unreefed in 40 knots. These photos show well the nuggety shape: This is the existing ocean going 28 footer, she's the most similar boat to the design I'm building, but much fuller. It's a big little boat: Cliff Gale was a self-taught designer, who learned by towing carved models behind a dinghy. Ranger was designed by carving a bread & butter half model, which was taken apart & measured. Cliff’s son Bill recently wrote this about his father: "Cliff Gale left school in 1898 aged twelve, & knew arithmetic but had insufficient mathematics to be useful in boat design. As a boy he lived at Woolwich & the family owned a rowing skiff for transport & pleasure. From thirteen to nineteen he made in excess of one hundred rough sailing models, each one progressively different, which he tested from the skiff. At nineteen he felt he had completed his design self-education.” I would like to build the model plank on ribs, & possibly make it RC sailing - although plain sailing is an alternative as well. But I’ll leave that alternative open until I get to that point, I will also be happy if a nice display model is the result. The issue that needs to be resolved is actually what to build... I do have the original drawings as done by a naval architect to Cliff’s design, but having looked carefully at them, they do not relate accurately between the different drawings. The history of the Ranger design makes this even worse: for Ranger herself we have Cliff’s original half model, we have the original drawings done from the half model, & we have lines drawing of Ranger meticulously done by 2 local shipwrights … & they don’t match up. If you compare station 4 on the drawings below, the design drawing shows more tumblehome, & much less buoyancy - the volume below the waterline was increased while being built, to increase her load-carrying capacity: Bill Gale tells me that his father went to the boatbuilder often to supervise the construction, & that he made a number of modifications to the lines while she was being built. For the model, I will have to adapt the lines drawing, trying to do it in a similar way that the lines drawing of Ranger was adapted to the built design. Because of the uncertainty, the model building method needs to help resolve thoughtfully these differences between the various possible shapes, & not be a way of getting caught up in plotting lines on a screen that fit but might be going away from the design. Initially I spent some hours trying to resolve a set of lines that is consistent, as they do not quite match up on the original drawing. My CAD skills are fair but you can’t really see a subtle 3D curved object in a drawing, so making changes to a curve on screen seems risky in this case. So I’ve concluded that I must see the shape in the flesh, & so carve the solid hull shape, based on a set of lines I adapted from the original lines drawing. The shape will be fair, so then I know the molds will work. If the method is too difficult I will be reluctant to make corrections, so it needs to be fairly simple & easy to make & to change. In putting this up early, I hope to benefit from the knowledge & experience of this forum. So I’ve done some sketches below that show the idea for my construction method, & hope that I can get some constructive criticism & help to iron out any issues now. In a few weeks I’ll get back to the computer & finalise the lines drawings; but for now I’ll describe the idea for the building method - as I see it now. 1 Work up a set of lines in CAD, from the original drawings. 2 Cut plywood molds from the station lines. 20141103145702436.pdf 3 Assemble the molds with solid balsa blocking between them, the balsa blocking is to be removable. Possibly brass rods inserted at angles through the balsa & molds. 20141103145708075.pdf 20141103145720688.pdf 4 Carve the hull shape out of the solid, using the molds as indicators. If I need to add to the molds, glue strips of timber on the mold edges. 5 Make the stem, forefoot, keelson, keel, transom etc, to sit neatly over the hull shape. 20141103145726052.pdf 6 Remove some of the solid blocking, where the ribs can sit directly on the molds; leave the blocking where the ribs want to lie at angles, I’ll probably need to put in temporary spacers to help hold the model together. By keeping blocking in the bow area, the ribs can follow their natural line rather be pushed into being straight across the hull. It's not so bad for the aft 2/3s of the hull shape, I think they'll be able to sit on the plywood ribs. 7 Cut the rabbet, rib the hull. 8 Plank the hull. 9 Remove molds & remaining blocking, progressively putting in some deck beams as it goes. 10 Have a cup of tea thanks for reading this, I hope to learn a bit more before starting, & maybe revise the method if needed MP
  7. This is my first wooden ship model, Been looking forward to doing this for years. One question I have, In the instructions with the Corel Kit it says to use "Vinyl Glue" for the wood to wood glueing, I checked with the local Hobby store and they had no idea what that was, so I am using White Glue, however this is water soluble, Is there a better glue to use for the build? How to glue, wet bent wood? Doesn't work with water soluble glue. Also to glue the laths on the underside of the deck the plans did not line up with the spacing of the ribs on the keel. I ended up cutting and stretching the plans about 1/8" just after the 5th rib to get them to line up for gluing. See the attached pics. ( I hope). After soaking the deck in water (and losing 16 of the water soluble glued laths) I have positioned the deck with rubber bands to get the proper curvature of the deck. I will remove it next, after it has dried for a couple of days and glue it to the ribs and then re-glue the laths back into position. I have worked with wood in numerous situations over the years and have a reasonable understanding of its characteristics however, I welcome suggestions and helpful tips as I definitely know there is much I do not know. Thanks in advance for any tips and assistance. I am a land locked, non-mariner so i may get my terminology incorrect in naming pieces of the ship, no offence intended. Thanks for reading, Ken
  8. The United States Coast Guard's official history began on 4 August 1790 when President George Washington signed the Tariff Act that authorized the construction of ten vessels, referred to as "cutters," to enforce federal tariff and trade laws and to prevent smuggling. Known variously through the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries as the "revenue cutters," the "system of cutters," and finally the Revenue Cutter Service, it expanded in size and responsibilities as the nation grew. The United States Revenue Cutter Service was originally established as the Revenue-Marine, and so named for over one hundred years, by then-Secretary of the Treasury Alexander Hamilton in 1790, to serve as an armed maritime law enforcement service. Throughout its entire existence, the service operated under the authority of the United States Department of the Treasury. Between 1790 and 1798, the Revenue-Marine was the only armed maritime service of the United States, as the Navy had been disbanded. Each cutter captain was answerable to and received his sailing orders directly from the Collector of Customs of the port to which his ship was assigned. Good records on many of the earliest Revenue Cutters are hard to find. I am using information provided on the USCG Historian's website as well as in Howard Chapelle The History of American Sailing Ships and Donald Canney's U.S. Coast Guard and Revenue Cutters, 1790-1935 as primary historical resources, and will mention other references as I move through the build. I originally started this build last summer and have gotten to the stage of planking the hull. I do not have any early photo's unfortunately. One of the earliest challenges was deciding upon the scale - the plans indicate that they are at 1:64 scale, while the instruction book is listed as 1:50 scale. Hmmm...first disconnect was figuring out which scale to use! If I converted the length on deck at each scale, the 1:50 was far smaller than the known cutters of the time period built to the Doughty plans. The dimension checked out at 1:64, so first decision point passed. Now I just need to be careful when i use any of the instruction drawings that are, supposedly, to scale for the build! Next was deciding on the actual cutter to build. There was no 1823 USRC Ranger (the kit name). I had a choice of several similar topsail schooners, but opted for the Detector. The Detector was built in 1825 by Fisher & Webster of North Yarmouth, Maine. She was stationed in Portland Maine for her career. I like the USRC Detector - my Admiral was an instructor for several years on Radiation Detectors, so thought it would be a good way to pay her some honors. Here, then, is my progress to date on the Detector. i work on her a little at a time when I hit a roadblock on the Harriet Lane. Enjoy! I had to re-plank the aft section as the original planking started to converge following the deck shape not straight from the foreward planking.
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