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Showing results for tags 'epoxy'.
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Dear all You might find this helpful I have some 2 part epoxy resin that I bought maybe 5 years ago. It is still perfectly fine and I have lots left. However, the resin had become very thick to the point I could not draw with a syringe. I popped it in the microwave with the lid off for 25 secs in increments (for a half full 12 oz bottle). It liquified again beautifully. It seems that the resin can crystallise in cold or with time and that microwaving it or letting it sit in warm water brings it back. Visually, there does not seem to be any difference in its qualities. Previously I had thrown away epoxy or had trouble matching the volumes because of this problem so this seems a good fix. No health and safety guarantees though, I did it when the admiral was out. Regards
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Dear all I am about to laminate the stem and I would like your thoughts whether I could use PVA glue. The boat is 1:10 scale, there will be 14 laminates, each 0.5 mm thick and 20 mm wide. It will be a big stem! I can use epoxy and I am sure it will come out fine with no spring back. However, working with epoxy is a dirty business, takes ages to dry and it will be a very hard stem, difficult to cut bevels etc. Could I use PVA? Will there be appreciable spring back, glue starved areas, will the short opening time be a problem and will it be strong enough? Vaddoc- 3 replies
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Hello I just got a new Dumas kit I know I may be getting ahead of myself but I was just wondering How do I apply the fiberglass resin/epoxy for the finishing layer waterproof/? 1.) Use a brush? 2.) just tape off and pour directly on the surface. or is there another way or recommendations Thankyou! -
Which types of glue do I use for wood ship kits? It seems like everywhere I look people are using CA (cyanoacrylate) glue to do just about everything. However, as someone who has acquired an allergy to the stuff I’ve had the opportunity to try a variety of other products and have found some excellent replacements. Recently, a wood ship client asked me for CA glue for his models and I thought I’d write this note to describe CA glue and some other ideas I’ve learned since I stopped using the stuff. CA Glue CA glue comes in three thicknesses, thin, medium, and thick, in various names depending on the brand. The best known are Zap-a-Gap and Bob Smith. I’ve tried various brands and prefer the Bob Smith brand because it comes in a variety of sizes but the quality of Zap-a-Cap is just about the same. You can find a longer discussion about the glues I use in my models at http://modellers-workshop.com/january-2014-which-types-of-glue-do-i-use-for-various-jobs/ 5-minute and 15-minute Epoxy I’ve replaced all my CA needs with two-part epoxy and wood glue. For the epoxy, I use 5-minute epoxy and am very happy with the results. In fact, I have not found a single place where I would have preferred the CA stuff, having used dozens of bottles in the past. Yes, you have to mix a small amount every time you need to glue something but this gives you time to prepare a few parts in advance. I’ve never been able to prepare more than five or six parts at a time for gluing so this is really not a problem. The nice thing about epoxy is that is dries completely clear so you can use that to advantage when making, say, a bucket of water. I also have a couple of bottles of 15-minute epoxy ready but I’ve never needed them. Perhaps someone who can actually prepare a bunch of parts in advance might have use for that but I haven’t figured that out. I highly recommend using epoxy over CA glue for just about any job where wood glue is not suitable. Wood Glue For all my wood and knot needs, I’ve switched over to wood glue. After all, before the invention of CA glue, pretty well all wood models were built using this stuff. I use the two varieties shown below but I’d be hard pressed to describe the differences. I think the Titebond flows a little faster but the Lepage’s dries a bit faster. It’s not a huge difference. However, I have learned a trick about this stuff you might want to know. I always have at least three bottles on the go. There is the one in current use, which I refill from time to time from the other two. This is because the glue is thick and I can squeeze out a few drops quickly when the bottle is full. Otherwise it takes too long to squeeze it out. I use the first bottle until the cap inevitably breaks off and then the next bottle becomes the one in use. This way I am never frustrated by having a broken cap and I always have a full bottle to use. I also buy the smallest bottles of that stuff for this reason. If I were to buy a large bottle to use to refill the small one, I would end up with a small bottle with a broken cap and a large bottle that I can’t use to pour from. I use wood glue on all wood surfaces, of course, but I also use it for all my knots. I find the glue soaks into the thread and disappears, unlike the CA glue, that just kind of sits there on top of everything. Now, of course, one needs more clamping with wood glue, and more time, but isn’t that what modelling is all about? Happy Modelling to All, Rick Shousha Modeller’s Workshop Montreal
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