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Pride of Baltimore II by jcoby - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64


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70 replies to this topic

#16
capnharv2

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Yep, you're on the right track now. The plans should have a view looking down that should also identify the location of the sliding hatch and doors, the engine hatch and the skylight.

 

The Pride of Baltimore 2 website should have more deck pictures. That, or a web search will help.

 

And you're correct on the bow. The samson post dictates the bowsprit and windlass location.

 

Regarding the samson post chamfers, here's an idea (I haven't tried it, so I don't know if it will work). On full size chamfers, we mark a line a certain distance from the edge, but parallel to the edge. You should be able to duplicate it using a .5mm mechanical pencil. Extend the lead to the width you want on top and draw with the side of the lead on the top of the post. You should get a shaded rectangle on the top. Do the same on each side(extend the lead for how far down as you want the chamfer to go and use the side of the lead again) and remove the shaded areas (probably with sandpaper). You might also consider using something harder than basswood for the samson post. Basswood is easy to work with, but it gets soft and fuzzy. Try a piece of cherry cut to the same dimensions and you may have better luck.

 

But your existing samson post looks pretty good to me.

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey


  • Bill Hime likes this

#17
PageT

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Jocoby
I am now rigging my Pride. All is done except that. Pretty satisfied with my model so far after thirty years of not doing any modeling. Made a few mistakes "Earl Shived" them. Rigging is hard for me due to fat arthhetic fingers. I am using Bob Laucks forum for my build and it has helped me alot especially neew ways to build. I think he should incorporate your building the frames to the deck furniture before decking as you did. Looking forward to finishing the Pride mid summer. I think I need to build my next ship to a larger scale 1:76 to 1:90 so I can manipulate and see the deadeyes and parts better. I am ok with the building of the keel, etc. planking-masts and yards just the small items. When I am done I will post a photo of my Pride. Good luck and your Pride looks reeeeal good!
Page

#18
capnharv2

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Page,
Are you sure you want to go to 1:76 or smaller scale? If you're having trouble with small rigging details, you probably want to go to something like 1:48.

Thanks,

Harvey

#19
jcoby

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Jocoby
I am now rigging my Pride. All is done except that. Pretty satisfied with my model so far after thirty years of not doing any modeling. Made a few mistakes "Earl Shived" them. Rigging is hard for me due to fat arthhetic fingers. I am using Bob Laucks forum for my build and it has helped me alot especially neew ways to build. I think he should incorporate your building the frames to the deck furniture before decking as you did. Looking forward to finishing the Pride mid summer. I think I need to build my next ship to a larger scale 1:76 to 1:90 so I can manipulate and see the deadeyes and parts better. I am ok with the building of the keel, etc. planking-masts and yards just the small items. When I am done I will post a photo of my Pride. Good luck and your Pride looks reeeeal good!
Page

 

The coamings were called out to be put in before the deck as an optional step in the plans. Even though it took a couple hours to build and install them, I feel it made installing the deck quite a bit easier. And it was far easier to paint them first.

 

I've been working on the Pride but very slowly. It's warm now and I've been spending most of my free time in the garage working with metal. I have built the frame for the hatch. I still need to make the verticals before I start planking the top.

 

And as capnharv2 said, smaller numbers are bigger scale. 1:76 or 1:90 is tiny unless you are working on a huge ship.


Current build - MS Pride of Baltimore II


#20
Timothy Wood

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I look forward to seeing her with all the "rigging"....

 

Cheers,

 

Tim


Tim 

 

Current Build:

 

80' ELCO PT BOAT (Solid Hull)

Scratch Build - Atlantic (Schooner 1903) Half Hull: Winner of the 1905 Kaiser's Cup Race.

 

 

 

Future Build:

  • BlueJacket - USS Kidd (Fletcher Class Destroyer) Solid Hull
  • Model Shipways - Pride of Baltimore II (Topsail Schooner) 
  • Model Shipways - Willie L. Bennett (Chesapeake Bay Skipjack)
  • Constructo - Pilar (Ernest Hemingway's Fishing Yacht)  
  • Sergal - Race Horse (Bomb Ketch)
  • Classic Warships - USS Salem CA-139 (Heavy Cruiser) Resin Kit
  • Pen Duick Schooner - Half Hull (Scratch Build)
  • CSA Submarine Hunley (Resin Kit)
  • Classic Warships - USS Washington BB-56 (Battleship) Resin Kit

 

Completed Builds:

                 

Member:

Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

Nautical Research Guild

              


#21
Timothy Wood

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I have some photos of the Pride II, I'll see if I can dig them up for you!

 

Cheers,

Tim


Tim 

 

Current Build:

 

80' ELCO PT BOAT (Solid Hull)

Scratch Build - Atlantic (Schooner 1903) Half Hull: Winner of the 1905 Kaiser's Cup Race.

 

 

 

Future Build:

  • BlueJacket - USS Kidd (Fletcher Class Destroyer) Solid Hull
  • Model Shipways - Pride of Baltimore II (Topsail Schooner) 
  • Model Shipways - Willie L. Bennett (Chesapeake Bay Skipjack)
  • Constructo - Pilar (Ernest Hemingway's Fishing Yacht)  
  • Sergal - Race Horse (Bomb Ketch)
  • Classic Warships - USS Salem CA-139 (Heavy Cruiser) Resin Kit
  • Pen Duick Schooner - Half Hull (Scratch Build)
  • CSA Submarine Hunley (Resin Kit)
  • Classic Warships - USS Washington BB-56 (Battleship) Resin Kit

 

Completed Builds:

                 

Member:

Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

Nautical Research Guild

              


#22
jcoby

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Well it's finally cold enough to get me out of the garage and back into the basement to start again on the Pride.

 

I resumed working on the after cabin trunk. This thing has been a major pain mostly because I do not really know how ships are built. Many thanks to bhermann for posting pictures.

 

I spent about two hours planking the top of the after cabin only to find out that one side had become about 1/2 strip more narrow than the other. That was far too much for me and would have caused the edge moulding to look very lopsided. So at about 1am I cut it off and went to bed.

 

I then decided to build the top of the after cabin as a single sheet on top of a piece of wax paper and then set it as a unit. This came out much, much better. It isn't exactly to the plans, I think it's about 0.032" too wide or so but it is fairly pleasing to the eye with an even reveal around the entire perimeter. 

 

I still need to add the hatches and trim but I am happy with the result so far.

 

IMG_0336.JPG

 

IMG_0337.JPG

 

I also spent some time reworking the bowsprit cap. The plans call for the jibboom to be 11/64" max at the cap but the hole in the cap was about 1/32 too large. Originally I made the jibboom to match the cap but it looked clunky and out of scale. So I had to remake the cap. I am much happier with the result.

 

IMG_0339.JPG

 

The jib boom still needs a bit more work to get it absolutely straight and true and to thin it out but all in all it has better proportions. 

 

IMG_0340.JPG

 

I am struggling with understanding how to do the hardware that holds the dolphin striker and jibboom guy spreader. I will make the iron band out of either construction paper or brass but I have no clue on how to do the eyebolts. These pieces will be under compression so they need to have some rigidity but they also need to move freely. I don't even know how to mount and eye bolt to the spreaders at only 3/64" dia.

 

I also don't know how to make the iron ring that goes under the bee. The kit doesn't come with brass wide enough to make the iron band nor does it come with bobstays.

 

IMG_0338.JPG

 

Also the forum apparently hates portrait pictures.


Edited by jcoby, 02 December 2013 - 03:21 PM.

Current build - MS Pride of Baltimore II


#23
Bill Hime

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Hey jcoby!

 

I love the build! Nice log too. It's great to have someone else here that's building the Pride. Thanks for forging a path. I saw where you were having problems with Basswood fuzzing out on small details. That's why I'm using woods like Rosewood, Cherry, or Pear for detail parts. They hold sharp edges and are easy to work with chisels and files :)

I've learned a lot just looking through your log. I'll definitely follow along! Please feel welcome to comment/suggest on my log anytime!

 

 

Bill


Passion is Patience...and I am a carpenter in any scale.

 

 

current build;    Pride of Baltimore II, embellished version 

                         http://modelshipworl...e-by-bill-hime/

 

November start date;    HMS Surprize, 1:48 A L

                                     Admiral approved. Delivery date, early November, 2014

 

Research/Planning;   USS Constitution, 1:32 Scratch build, 1/2 Hull, working diorama 


#24
jcoby

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Hey jcoby!

 

I love the build! Nice log too. It's great to have someone else here that's building the Pride. Thanks for forging a path. I saw where you were having problems with Basswood fuzzing out on small details. That's why I'm using woods like Rosewood, Cherry, or Pear for detail parts. They hold sharp edges and are easy to work with chisels and files :)

I've learned a lot just looking through your log. I'll definitely follow along! Please feel welcome to comment/suggest on my log anytime!

 

 

Bill

 

This is actually the third time I posted the build. The first two had much more detail and I didn't feel like reposting all of that content. I followed your build and will post some pics as you get there. The planksheer and wale stanchions gave me about the most trouble during the build.

 

The basswood is a bit soft for detail. I may have to grab some harder woods for some of the detail parts. The bitts in particular are making me mad. I've probably put down 4" of chamfers 3/16" at a time on a sample piece and I have yet to get a good sharp chamfer consistently. I've tried scraping, cutting, sanding and I cannot get a consistent chamfer. I have some dogwood that I've been playing with. The grain is tight but it's a bit stringy to work with. I'd love to be able to afford boxwood. I cannot justify it though since I will be staining/painting according to the plans.

 

However the basswood does OK for the planking especially after a sand to 400. I can't say it's a very attractive wood but it comes out OK. The variation in coloration initially discouraged me but I like it after it's been stained. Gives the deck some "life."


  • Bill Hime likes this

Current build - MS Pride of Baltimore II


#25
jcoby

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Work continues on the after cabin trunk.

 

First I built the framing for the hatch. I built it with square pieces and will true them later. Everything got a coat of mahogany stain.

 

IMG_0341.JPG

 

I took the downtime to install the mouldings.

 

IMG_0343.JPG

 

An hour or so later I trued up the hatch frame using a sharp chisel and a sanding block. I cut some black construction paper to act as the padding and glued everything into place. I then installed the fore section of the hatch frame.

 

The hatch frame is now complete minus some touchup work to the stain and paint.

 

It is probably too thick to be to scale at 1/32" (2" full size) but I did not want to work with thinner materials on such a delicate part. It doesn't look terribly out of place on the model to my untrained eye.

 

There are no dimensions or even full drawings of the hatch so I'm sort of just making it look right. I'm within 0.020" wherever I can be on the drawings.

 

IMG_0344.JPG

 
From here I need to build the sliding top that rides on the rails on the frame. It will be fixed in the closed position although it is tempting to leave it open a bit since I have the opening there already.

  • Timothy Wood likes this

Current build - MS Pride of Baltimore II


#26
jcoby

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After cabin hatch is complete. The harsh light I use makes it look worse than it does in person. The mahogany stain is too dark but it's consistent across the whole ship. I would definitely use a lighter stain doing it over again. I have some actual mahogany but it's far too coarsely grained to work at scale.

 

IMG_0345.JPG

 

I decided to do a test chamfer with some dogwood. First impressions are that this is a very hard, straight grained, and dense wood that takes a very fine and shiny finish. Also that I am not setup to work with hard woods. Most of my kit is setup for soft woods. Even my super sharp chisel has trouble slicing through the wood but it does so very cleanly.

 

I will mill up some 1/8" strips on the bandsaw and see if I can get a passable bitt out of it.

 

IMG_0346.JPG


  • Timothy Wood and Mirabell61 like this

Current build - MS Pride of Baltimore II


#27
capnharv2

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Hi jcoby,

 

That is one gorgeous build you've got going!

 

For the dolphin striker and jibboom spreaders, I recommend putting 2 small eyebolts together. Insert the end of one eyebolt in the cap and the end of the other eyebolt into the end of the striker/spreader.

 

For the iron bands, I would wrap paper, brass or copper sheet/foil around the bowsprit, then drill holes thru it to attach the bullseyes.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey



#28
jcoby

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Hi jcoby,

 

That is one gorgeous build you've got going!

 

For the dolphin striker and jibboom spreaders, I recommend putting 2 small eyebolts together. Insert the end of one eyebolt in the cap and the end of the other eyebolt into the end of the striker/spreader.

 

For the iron bands, I would wrap paper, brass or copper sheet/foil around the bowsprit, then drill holes thru it to attach the bullseyes.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

 

The plans call for eyebolts but I thought it was calling for the pre-made ones that come with the kit. Using those would allow for too much gap and everything would rattle around.

 

If I make some out of the brass wire stock I can close them up tight and they will be able to handle the compression stress easily. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

I plan on going to the local hobby store and picking up some brass sheet to make the bands in the next few days.

 

At this point I'm trying my best to find things to do to avoid building deck furniture. I really do not enjoy building deck furniture. I'm looking forward to rigging.


Current build - MS Pride of Baltimore II


#29
jcoby

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Yesterday seemed to be one of those days when nothing goes right.

 

So instead of trying to finish the after cabin skylight and bell I decided to paint the box that goes just fore of the after cabin trunk. It will receive a mahogany top and two vent stacks and will stand on two legs.

 

IMG_0350.JPG

 

I then stained the main mast and painted the main boom. The main boom needs a few more cleats and eyelets added before I can seal it up with wipe-on poly.

 

IMG_0351.JPG

 

Every time I set another piece of the masts I'm amazed at how much sail area she has. There is a ring tail boom that extends out another 3" aft that I still need to make.

 

On several areas the masts call for 0.008" wires about 3/8" long. I assume they're for belaying or for routing lines. This wire is not included in the kit. I don't know if I can get brass that thin and I'm worried that if I use steel it will rust. Yet another thing I need to figure out before I can mark any one piece of the ship as finished.


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Current build - MS Pride of Baltimore II


#30
Bill Hime

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Hey jcoby,

 

Nice consistent work. You seem to always come up with good end solutions for troubling problems. Great thing about ship modeling, there is always something to work on while taking a break from unresolved issues :)

 

 

Bill


Passion is Patience...and I am a carpenter in any scale.

 

 

current build;    Pride of Baltimore II, embellished version 

                         http://modelshipworl...e-by-bill-hime/

 

November start date;    HMS Surprize, 1:48 A L

                                     Admiral approved. Delivery date, early November, 2014

 

Research/Planning;   USS Constitution, 1:32 Scratch build, 1/2 Hull, working diorama 





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