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I've been using Weldbond for a lot of applications, but as a woodworker I know PVA glues are the best for wood to wood joints.  Weldbond has an initial fast tack, which I like.  I've heard a number of negatives about it, though.  TiteBond makes a glue called No-Run No-Drip, which used to be called" Molding and Trim"  glue.  It is a PVA that has an initial fast tack.  Anyone with experience or comments on this glue for model ship building?

 

Dave

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HI Dave,

I did not like it at all. I apply glue from a syringe device and I could not fill the reservoir easily with the stuff. To get the no run no drip viscometrics of No-run No drip you would have to have some kind of additive. Don't get me wrong, Titebond has an excellent product line. I would just use one of their conventional flow PVAs if it were me. Surprised about your comments about Weldbond. Isn't it a PVA too?

Best

Jaxboat B)

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Weldbond - The manufacturer - Frank T. Ross & Sons - is bit coy in how they write the product literature but they do state that it is P.V.Ac - which is polyvinyl acetate - PVA

It should be essentially the same as other PVA wood glues.

 

The way my brain stores and recalls info -  Weldbond also brings up Weldwood - the contact cement - which is not so good for our uses.

I built and use the thickness sander in NRG Ship Modeler's Shop Notes Vol. 1.  The platen is made from turned Rock Maple sized to fit a sheet of sand paper.  It has been difficult to find way to attach - reversibly - the sanding medium.  The way I do it now - use cloth backed medium - attach with Weldwood.  I have found that paint thinner solution Naphtha  works to unstick the medium. It does not dissolve it.  It makes it unsticky and produces removable curd-like lumps. 

Edited by Jaager

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Jaager,

 

Check some the DIY stores for sticky back sandpaper.  Maybe that might be an option.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Mark,

 

Thanks, 

I will look to see what is available.

There were several less than successful experiments trying to find something that worked and could be removed without too much (unacceptable) effort. 

The shear forces on the paper can be high.  Regular paper backed medium does not last all that long.

WoodCraft has a cloth backed medium from Germany that lasts.  It comes as a roll and is 4 inches wide. Now I have 3 different grits on the 11 inch long platen. It even stands up to being cleaned using a gummy rubber cleaning stick.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Bought some and tried it out.  Worked pretty well for me.  Good for getting small items to stay in place when they can't be clamped.

My advice and comments are always worth what you paid for them.

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I bought a bottle of this Titebond glue based on the "Fast Inicial Tack" premise. I have used it some, but I can't really tell if there is a difference compared to others glues. I am also under the impression that is not as strong as the regular Titebond wood glue or the new (for me) Elmer's wood "stronger" formula, which I am presently using with very satisfactory results.

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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