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My plan is to use matt clear coat for a mahogny deck. I have tried Humbrol but I don't get the result I want. Instead of grey it's getting a grey tone that doen't look matt at all. It's the same result with 2 different cans. Any tips how to get a good result with matt clear coat? Or any good brand that gives a good result.

 

Thanks, Robert

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If you are using the matt clear cote with brush or roller , it's mostly impossible to get an even and homogene matt look .... If you are using airbrush, stir the material well, slightly increase your thinning ratio, slightly increase the pressure ( up to 1-1,2 bar ) and slightly increase your application distance from the surface ..... but first, try all these on another surface and see the result

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Whatever you do with brush, you will get a wavy look between matt and satin ..... this is the nature of matt cote .... you can't be able to spread the particles evenly in the material, which causes the matt look, with brush .... try spray varnishes then ....

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Spray varnish could be an option, thanks.

 

The problem isn't really that it´s getting wavy or uneven. The main problem is that it's grey and blurry, and not clear at all. Almost like a thin grey  film of something. That´s why I thought the Humbrol was causing the problem and that there were better brands for matt clear coat with brush.

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Spray varnish could be an option, thanks.

 

The problem isn't really that it´s getting wavy or uneven. The main problem is that it's grey and blurry, and not clear at all. Almost like a thin grey  film of something. That´s why I thought the Humbrol was causing the problem and that there were better brands for matt clear coat with brush.

So you are trying to apply the material too thick .... Increase your thinning ratio and work layer by layer .... and give some time to dry for each layer ....

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This is just theory - I have not tried it myself:

 

Long ago in a reference who's data I do not remember:   a gloss clear finish can be made matt by buffing it with steel wool - the more course the  wool - the less shinny the target.

 

It should be easy enough to test on scrap, and if it works, you will not be masking the natural wood.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Ahoy Mates

 

Try Testors Dullcote Lacquer 1160 1 1/4 oz bottle. You can brush it on with a soft 1/4" wide brush. It dries flat and doesn't show any brush marks if you make sure that you put a wet coat on. Try it out,it works great. You can then polish it with just a paper towel and get a sheen to it to a gloss if you want.

 

It shrinks down very flat-"I mean thin". You can put 4 coats on a surface and it doesn't show a thick build up like varnish does. It dries fast to the touch. I let it dry overnight before working with it. But you can apply another coat after it dires to the touch with no problems.

 

I like it because I do not have to spray it to get a good finish and surface.

 

Keith

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