the learner

Triton 1/48 by The Learner

179 posts in this topic

Christian, Thanks! I just reposted the post and Have figured it out thanks to the posting by Dan Vadas giving clear instructions on "How To"

 

Either I am up late or you are up early?

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The false keel damage should not show when the outer piece of the gripe is glued in place.

Guy,

 

I use the upload functuon off MSW. It works just beautyful. Have a look at your last post. Perhaps you've uploaded the pictures twice?

Your first keel section looks good. I would redo the false keel. It seems that you have damaged it during your modification.

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Still figgiting with the stearn deadwood on milling the steps! Have been real busy with the job, have a finish date of April 30th and a lot of work to do to accomplish this. Sorry about not adding any post on my Triton

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Have done some additional work on the building board but real busy on my job, will try and post some pictures end of week

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Guy

    We will be here waiting for your progress,  Work has a bad habit of getting in the way like that. I t just make the building time that much more enjoyable. 

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I discovered that you can print out just a section of a PDF file by using clipboard and only printing out the section selected. Go to edit select take a snapshot click OK on pop-up and select print and it will only show the selected section! click print. I wanted to print only the Stern Deadwood and this scaled out perfectly.

 

 

[No copyright plans attached to any posts please - Matrim]

 

 

Matrim, does that mean any pictures that have images of the HMS Triton on or in them can not be posted? this post only showed a section of the plan and in no way identified it as to being part of the Triton plan and it was a very useful section that can be used by others as it is not represented separtly in the build plans. I am a little confused but in the future will refrain from taking photos with any of the plans in the background nor will I post any pictures on the plans or parts of plans when I might have questions on a specific section!

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Guy

    We will be here waiting for your progress,  Work has a bad habit of getting in the way like that. I t just make the building time that much more enjoyable. 

 

Yes I have a deadline for two bathroom remodels that I have to keep and I am behind! so have a lot of time to make up but I have been working on my building board and have prepared the material for the stern deadwood.

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Does or has any one drawn the profile lines at each station for the stern deadwood and stern post? I have finally figured out how to mill the upper part but I am not happy with the taper section below. I will go back through the drawing and see what I can find today

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You are looking for the amount of taper at each section on the deadwood? I am pretty sure that was not drawn. You will need to eyeball it.

 

Russ

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You will need to go through the Triton build logs to find photograph os what others have done in that area.

 

The taper should not be a big problem though. You will begin at the full thickness at the steps of the deadwood and the gradually taper down to the bottom of the deadwood and the aft end of the deadwood. So long as there is a gradual taper with no big humps or bumps, you should be okay. Let your eyes and your fingers tell you when it is right. Always take off less than you think you should. You can always sand a bit more off.

 

Russ

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Are you looking for the ultimate depth of the taper at the deadwood? That will be equal to the thickness of the outer planking. That should be 3 inches. We used 3 inch plank on the cross section. You will need to gradually taper the deadwood down to where there is a 3 inch depth at the keel and the stern post.

 

Russ

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Thanks Russ, I will add your listed measurement specifications to the notes in my build! I also found this to help http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2041-building-a-deadwood-from-3-layers/?hl=deadwood Posted by AnobiumPunctatum as a separate item and good pictures. I think I can safely use the deadwood I cut however I used only one piece of wood, sorry guys.

 

I have also posted this in  PDF of AnobiumPunctatum's post above for any one who wants to put in their files for future refrence 

 

also this posted in the builders log of the HMS Fly by AnobiumPunctatum  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/149-hms-fly-by-anobiumpunctatum-scale-148-pof/page-3?hl=deadwood

Constructing a 3 piece deadwood with steps.pdf

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Guy,

 

be aware, that the examples are from a Swan Class Sloop. The deadwood for your HMS Triton looks different and has different sizes. If you need help, don't hesitate to ask.

I post some info in Larry's build log. He uses the three layer method.

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Hello Guy,I did the aft dead wood 3 times.I have it ok but not the best.The mohogany is to soft to get a really good edge.I hope you do a better job than I did.

    

    Best regards  Larry

 

 

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Thanks guy's I will be posting some pictures tomorrow...not perfect but I think it will work for 3" thick planking. This will be a good study on the shape of the deadwood area in diffrent eras and on diffrent types of vessels but later.

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Guy I am a novice and I do not know what you mean by 3 inch planking also how does the planking relate to the dead wood?

 Thank You for any help.  Larry

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Rummy, see Russ's post #42 above, the 3" measurement is the thickness of the plank and the taper of the deadwood that would allow for this thickness at the keel and stearnpost. I think my taper is a little off but I do not think that I will do any planking in this area.

 

Where is Roberts WI at? I use to live in northern IL

 

 

Can any one tell me if I attach the stern knee to the deadwood/inner stearnpost at this time or after the frames have been attached?

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The stern knee would most likely go in after the cant frames are in, but it is up to you.

 

Russ

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Hello Guy,Roberts, Wi is a very small town about 10 miles from the Minnesota border and about 30 miles from the Twin Cities.

 I decided to remake the deadwood again.It did come out better.This time I used maple and the finish is much nicer.I will post some pictures to night or tomorrow.    Larry

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Ok time to start posting some pictures!

 

I have started using the mill but after the fiist several attempts I had  to stop and mill some wood as I had used all I had cut for the keel.

 

My Process using the Ryobi saw does limit me to the height but the right blade makes cutting quite easy

 

 

post-1091-0-82622600-1368716633_thumb.jpg

 

 

I then run them through my thickness sander to bring it to the nominal size.

 

post-1091-0-89330300-1368716887_thumb.jpg

 

 

Looks familiar? it works fantastic and I can really push the stock through at a much greater clip than my comerical hobby thickness sander and it required minimal modification to construct as you can see by the pictures. I do need to add a finer adjustment method and it will be almost perfect. Changing belts is also a dream as you do not have to tear your sander half apart to change the drum paper!

 

post-1091-0-53560600-1368717062_thumb.jpg

 

post-1091-0-70174300-1368717098_thumb.jpg

 

My Commercial Hobby sander, I am sure all of you who mill your own wood have one!

 

post-1091-0-70647600-1368717384_thumb.jpg

 

Enough for now off to work I must go!

 

Guy

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Hello Guy,Roberts, Wi is a very small town about 10 miles from the Minnesota border and about 30 miles from the Twin Cities.

 I decided to remake the deadwood again.It did come out better.This time I used maple and the finish is much nicer.I will post some pictures to night or tomorrow.    Larry

 

The reason I asked I grew up in Northern IL in my later childhood years and was close to the WI border, made many trips up!  good luck on the deadwood! I know mine is not perfect but will get in to it on anouther build! the importance it is the method of the build!

 

 

I will post pictures of it tonight or tomorrow morning

 

Guy

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Guy....nice to see you making some progress.....

 

Really like the way you converted your Delta sander over to a thickness planer...looks to work well.

 

Looking forward to more.

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 Guy,I am going to try that thickness sander.Nice job. I have a drill press sander but I'm allways looking for something new.

 I just aquired a disk and long board sander.I'm looking for some way to control the sawdust. It makes a lot and makes it fast.

 Yes I am on the western side of Wi.Been here about 25 years.When it snows in May it is time to leave.      Larry

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Ok here goes this is my second attempt at milling the deadwood and as I said it is in one piece only but will definitely try to put all the pieces in the next time!

 

 

Here the first side has the first  cut made

 

post-1091-0-89278900-1368864309_thumb.jpg

 

 

The final depth has been achieved, now I will turn over and apply the second pattern that I have electronically inverted and using register marks from the first side will glue the new pattern on

 

post-1091-0-99930100-1368864364_thumb.jpg

 

My depth guage ...Yes I have better depth guages but this works! once I learn to use the mill it will provide all that for me.

 

post-1091-0-03212400-1368864914_thumb.jpg

 

Attached to the keel piece and the stearn post added along with the first section of inner keel added

 

Photo removed because it shows section of copyright plan in the background

 

I actually enjoyed using the mill.........More to come

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 Guy,I am going to try that thickness sander.Nice job. I have a drill press sander but I'm allways looking for something new.

 I just aquired a disk and long board sander.I'm looking for some way to control the sawdust. It makes a lot and makes it fast.

 Yes I am on the western side of Wi.Been here about 25 years.When it snows in May it is time to leave.      Larry

 

Rummy, if you want I can send you additional pictures on the sander if you are going to convert it

 

Guy

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You have to attach the deadwood and stern before you start with the frameing. The transoms were positioned at the inner post.

 

Yes once I have finished the keel (head and stem) I will start on the framing from the first dead flat frame back...I think I said that right!

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Hello Guy,

 

Wow! splendid work on the keel, Sir, very nice and clean. That's a neat set of tools you have there too, looking forward to more of your beautiful work  B)

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Thanks Rdsaplala!

 

 

The next addition

 

post-1091-0-35213100-1368890110_thumb.jpg

 

I used the mill to shape all the flat sections not perfect but makes for tight joints. I do enjoy using it and should be fairly good at it by the time I start putting in the three piece beams.

 

as this is my frist build of this type I am not going to spend a lot of time doing re-work unless I can not make it look decent...a little wood putty here and there should cover up those mistakes if done right! 

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