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Sultana by Overworked724 (Patrick) – FINISHED - Model Shipways – Scale 1:64 – Solid Hull – First Wooden Model Ship


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Thank you, sir! In all honesty, there was simply no other accurate way to get to needed alignment and angles without rigging up something. Interested to hear how others accomplish this task!

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Got the stem, keel and stern post on. The fact wood filler exists keeps me from freaking out. The point where stern post and keel meet was really over sanded. Could drive a truck through that gap.

 

Wood filler (mixed with a bit of water...stored in a salad dressing disposable container for freshness) did the trick.

 

If I could count how many pounds of sawdust I have inhaled by now...

 

Moving on. Hull is looking fairly decent. (After 1000 mistakes...amazed).

 

Pat

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Lesson learned:  Check figurehead placement and fit before gluing on the stem.  Crap.  Need to reshape and carve down to get it fit without snapping/breaking/etc. the glued on stem

 

For every single thing I do right - I seem to do 2 things wrong.  

 

But...I will overcome...I actually made 2 stems just in case!  

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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This is something that we all go through at one time or another. Just keep plugging away.

 

Russ

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She is looking great! Good thing you made a back-up stem. It always good to have a plan B ;).

-Elijah

 

Current build(s):

Continental Gunboat Philadelphia by Model Shipways

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15753-continental-gunboat-philadelphia-by-elijah-model-shipways-124-scale/

 

Completed build(s):

Model Shipways Phantom

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?showtopic=12376

 

Member of:

The Nautical Research Guild

N.R.M.S.S. (Nautical Research and Model Ship Society)

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Already got it reshape and pre-fit. Pics to come later! (Sweat bullets during the 'stem surgery'!)

Moving on...

 

Also:

Lesson Learned #2:  Do NOT start painting until you have a smooth hull.  That means wood filler/polyurethane/sanding sealer....choose your poison.

 

I thought I had sanded enough...the hull felt like a baby's bum...nope.  Not even close.  Next time....sanding sealant before I start painting.  =-(  Crapola.

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Well...took the plunge. Carved down the stem to fit the figurehead (which gave me a heart attack). The figurehead fits nicely now, and I prefer the positioning and shape now since the wood of the stem won't wrap under it to the front. Leaving the figurehead fully exposed. A feature I like! So perhaps a blessing in disguise to carve it in a way that makes me happy. =-)

 

Also painted the hull. 4 coats of paint with sanding in between.

 

A small pot of Tamiya (flat white) with 10 drops of Tamiya Desert Yelliw to soften it a bit. Pure white is ghastly, and the softer off white tinge gives it a more pleasing look (at least to me). The recommended tallow color was hard to match, but I really prefer how it ended up.

 

My Airbrush technique is awful, but it did the job. Sanding between with increasing fine sandpaper/pads took the matte finish away. Surprisingly it ended up with a nice finish with sanding alone. Win!

 

Moving on...

 

(Noted that my stern piece is a bit wide...but I'm just going to adjust at this point as I can't bring myself to carve it down now...).

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Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Moving on into treacherous water. Forgot to drill the bob-stay and gammoning hole in stem (mostly because I was pretty sure I was going to have problems getting it on.

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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There's always something with this kit. It's like a continual stream of problems that need to be solved. I to plan the transom now, but the curvature of the stern prevent an easy approach to future gluing/placement. Additionally, the plans require some modification as my bulkheads are a bit higher and my stern curvature might be slightly deeper than the plans. I could try a plank bender but the 1/32 boxwood sheeting I am using to make it is to flimsy, and the grain is to thick...it would snap if I tried. Trying to put this on without prebending simply is not a option.

 

Problem: How do I prepare my transom to meet the curvature of the stern without making a curved jig to prebend the wood..

 

Some things just aren't captured in Chuck's totally awesome practicum!!

 

Answer: will surprise you...and will be covered in the next post! But it works like a charm and is EASY.

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Answer:

 

A few wooden stir sticks from Starbucks (use to keep clamps from bruising the wood), some spring clamps, and a 1qt cooking pot with flat sides.

 

Wet wood, clamp, have a beer. Wake up to perfect prebent transom sections.

 

Never underestimate the tools available in your own kitchen! (My wife is a genius...)

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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That looks very good. Problem solving is one of the things I enjoy about model building. Like you say, there is always something. :)

 

Russ

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Nice job Patrick, it looks like it will fit well. Do you think it will shrink after drying out?

-Elijah

 

Current build(s):

Continental Gunboat Philadelphia by Model Shipways

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15753-continental-gunboat-philadelphia-by-elijah-model-shipways-124-scale/

 

Completed build(s):

Model Shipways Phantom

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?showtopic=12376

 

Member of:

The Nautical Research Guild

N.R.M.S.S. (Nautical Research and Model Ship Society)

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Hi Elijah

 

Pic above is the transom layer bone dry. So now I'm rethinking how to make the transom. Chuck's practicum gives a great idea, but now I know how to get the right curvature, thinking to redo the layers in walnut. Decisions decisions!!!

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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General question for anyone reading:

 

How do you accurately (and safely) cut thin wood? The problem I seem to have is that the thin wood sheets are so thin that they splinter along the edge when using the scroll saw. They seem too hard to cut using a simple exacto knife.

 

How do other do this? It would help me remake the transom layers.

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Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Update - the pics above show my first couple of passes as the bulwark painting.  Upon review, I should have used wood filler along the inner bulwarks to clean up the surface before painting.  So, my frustration at the unclean got the better of me and I filled in and sanded down.  Will plan to repaint the inner bulwarks tonight.  I was so satisfied with my "git 'er dun" attitude, that I decided I would keep the momentum and clean my workbench (my wife was very happy).  Sadly, when doing this, I threww away the walnut veneers I made for the step fronts to the forecastle and quarter decks.  <grumble>

 

At least it looks nice.   

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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I use a number 11 scalpel to cut pieces out of thin wood sheets. 

 

With an exacto blade, if its sharp, you should be able to get through making repeated cuts along the same line. Make sure you have a sharp blade. Go slowly and watch the point of the blade to keep it on course as it works its way along and through the wood grain. Better to cut the piece a little large and then you can sand it off. It takes patience and some practice. Mind your fingers so you do not cut yourself.

 

Russ

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Thanks Russ! Walnut sheeting tends to be much harder (1/32) and I was surprise how difficult it was to cut. I will try your technique!

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Walnut if not really a good choice. It tends to have an open, coarse grain pattern unsuitable for scale modeling. It can be brittle and difficult to manage in any case.

 

I would recommend you get some basswood sheets from the local hobby or craft store. They are inexpensive and the they cut easily. You can paint or stain basswood. Staining basswood requires a pre stain conditioner or sanding sealer to ensure that the wood will absorb stain evenly. Painting basswood is not a problem, although water based paints will raise the grain and require some sanding and several thin coats to get a good finish.

 

However, basswood will be a lot easier to deal with than walnut in my experience.

 

Russ

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Hi Russ

 

Good feedback! Ok. I'm not crazy. Love the look of walnut but believe you are right. Stuff fragments so easily. The basswood I have. The grain and texture is as you say. Easier to work but doesn't take on an even look when stained. The thinness makes it difficult as well since the stain or paint tends to bleed across and through the sheet. It is easier to cut though.

 

I guess I am needing to rethink the wood step veneers then as well. If I go with basswood it makes my life a bit simpler.

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Quick update (pics to follow this evening);

 

First – Thanks Russ. I considered and reviewed some forums and decided to go with basswood. Also, changed to basswood veneers for the steps on the fcstl/quarter deck to adjust for the wood which I mistakenly trimmed off. I put those in last night and discovered I had accidentally sanded a bit too much off the port side of the forecastle. Crapola…I christen thee the HMS Assymetry…

 

Second – After adding in the veneers and shaping them to the level of the deck, I can see the lopsided effect of the sanding mistake I made when I was truing (or ‘overtruing’) the hull and deck of the forecastle. With the planking and bulwarks on, this make adjustment by sanding on the starboard side to even the deck a nonstarter. So…if I too too much off, I can put some back on. In this case, the amount I overtrimmed off is roughly 1/32…(a bit more actually). So I have trimmed out a small section of basswood sheeting which I can use to even the deck, and then smooth it out with filler. The final result, once the deck planking is in, should look better than the lopsided view I have now. This is the ONLY thing I can think of…simply slapping on woodfiller and hoping for an even result is a non-starter too – I am not that good at eyeballing.

 

Third – Did not like the initial attempt at painting the bulwarks. The gaps in the planking on the bulwarks stood out like a sore thumb. So wood filler in/sanded for another attempt. Painting the bulwarks and steps will take place after I have put in the filler around the veneers and the forecastle true up area on the port side.

 

…The correction of my mistakes on this kit is keeping me humble, yet oddly focused. The Sultana is actually a lot more challenging that the Lady Nelson so far. Wondering why in the heck I switched kits. But, I have momentum now, and will press on.

 

Pics to be posted later…

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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As promised. Pics of face plates for the steps (basswood) as well as my doctoring of the forecastle depression on the port side. Ugly but it will do the job. Now on my second and last round of sanding. Will update this post with final woodfilled product!

 

Also... a couple pics of how I will make tree nails for the deck planking.

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Looks pretty good so far. I think once you get the deck planked and a little progress on fittings etc, anything that is really bugging you will fall back into the perspective of the entire model and not be very obvious.

 

Russ

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Well, here is the best I can do. Deck looks and feels even. This is a crap ton better than before. Amazing how the human eye can see the difference of 1 mm when looking at symmetrical (supposedly) object. Our brains seem to magnify the perceived asymmetry.

 

1 mm. Sigh.

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Sometimes the eye can pick something out even when measurements tell us it is okay. If your hands and eyes tell you it is even, then go with that.

 

Russ

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Decision to redo painting of bulwarks after some additional filler/sanding was a good one. Much nicer result.

 

Currently working on the rudder, transom and planning the deck planking.

 

Moving on....

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Interesting tidbit of information. My wife is Japanese...and she was raised in the southern most part of the main province of Kyushu in a town called Kagoshima. There is an active volcano there called Sakurajima. It's a conical volcano, and erupts 2-3 times per day.

 

Now...how does this have anything to do with my ship model? Well - the solid hull which came from Model Shipways was not a single piece. It was two pieces glued together...and the wood was not perfect...it had a knot...which I have been staring at on the surface of the main deck since I started this journey. Well, the other day, my wife was excited to find the knot looks like Sakurajima! Quite a nice little omen...

 

Pics below...haha. Life is funny.

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Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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