Phantom by hopeful - Model Shipways - Scale 1:96

[hopeful]

Hi Mates,

 

Have a good friend that has helped me over the years. Decided to give him a gift of the Phantom Pilot Boat. I bought the kit about three years so had to dust'er off and get going. I  like the look of the vessel. There were a good number of Phantom's on the the old forum. Would love to see a few repost their builds. I will be building the vessel using Chuck's practicum. His buiding guide gets the most out of the vessel.

 

I am also currently building the Sultana. Decided to work a day on the Sultana followed by a day on the Phantom.

 

Post 1 of my Phantom Build...scale 1:96, not 1:48!

 

Photo 1

 

Here is the box art showing the vessel with'er coppered bottom and all.

 

 

Photo 2

 

Good background of the vessel. The purpose of pilot boats was to guide ships in and out of harbor for which they were paid. Look-outs would watch for incoming ships and several would race out to meeet the ship and guide'er into port. First pilot to meet the incoming vessel got the job.....nothing like competition.

 

 

Photo 3

 

Bits and pieces. Kit comes with 3 plan sheets. Instructions could be better. Using Chuck's detailed step by step practicum anyone can build this vessel and have fun doing so.

 

 

 

Photo 4

 

The build is underway.  Sanded a flat for the stem, keel, and stern post. The vessel, per the "Arrangement & Lines" drawing is 9 7/16" measured from the outboard edge of the transom forward to the outside edge of the stem.   The  bow sprit...adds an additional 1 7/8 inches to the over all length of the finished vessel. The templates on the left are used to determine the correct length of the vessel which is consistent with the deck drawing. The templated on the left insure the hull is faired per the drawings. Note the nine station lines on the hull. They correspond to the nine hull templates. In a POF model the hull is faired to the conture of the bulkheads covered by strakes.

 

Here you also see my Nanook (polar bear), she is a thousand pound female that wanders in and out of the boatyard. Her name is Nanoo, always sniffiing around. In the wild she would eat me in a New York minute. 

 

 

Photo 5

 

I added a false keel made of 1/8" basswood, the same dimension as the finished keel. I also applied a similar strip of wood to the stern where the stern post will be applied, and to the stem at the bow.  The strips of wood pinned to the hull will help be fair the hull quickly in the keel area while not allowing the keel to get thinner than the finished keel, 1/8".  Also added the nine station lines.

 

 

 

Photo 6

Here is a bow shot with Nanoo earning her keep.  The bow has been faired on the starboard side, the shadow area on the port side will be faired next. This is why I use the false keel. I can see quickly what needs to be faired and how much without damaging the flat stem area.

The false keel is pinned ot the hull, not glued.

 

 

Will add the stern shot next. At that time the entire hull will have been faired.

 

Thanks for looking in on the build. Comments and question always appreciated.

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum

 

Current: Sultana (MSW) Updating the build log and continuing on with the build

Current: Phantom (MSW)Phantom by Hopeful - Model Shipways - Scale 1:48

 

 

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

[bhermann]

David - wow, two builds at once.  You really are living on the wild side now.  This will be fun to watch.

 

Bob

[hopeful]

Hey Bob,

 

Thanks for stopping by. I'm looking forward to a diversion from my Sultana. Don't want to work on her full time for now. The Phantom is a vessel that I can build, me thinks, in a relatively short period of time, and I like the vessel. Only problem is she is small - 1:96 scale.  Looking forward to building her. She went down with all hands in 1888 during a blizzard, sad.

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted in kit build section of forum

 

Current: Sultana (MSW)

Current: Phantom (MSW)

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Edited April 13, 2013 by hopeful

[hopeful]

Post 2 of my Phantom Build

 

Task was to finish fairing the hull bow to stern. Strips are false keel, stem, and stern post pieces to guide fairing along those parts. Stripes will be removed for application of final parts. Gap in stem strip because strip was not pushed in  far enough. Stem is properly shaped.

 

Photo 7

 

 

Photo 8

 

 

Photo 9

 

Task is to locate and mark centerline on the deck. Centerline was located in the bow, keel, and transome previously.

 

Since the Centerlines were located on the stem and transom, I simply placed a small pencil mark at the edge of the bulkwarks and stem. I then pused in a pin at those location at located a thin board against the pies and made a line and pin against the board amidships. At that point I placed a smaller board again the center pin and at the stern and derw the full line. I repeated the process only from the center pin to the bow and drew the second line. Results in the next photo.

 

 

Photo 10

 

 

Next step in the build is to add the 1/8" square stem, keel, and stern post.

 

Thanks for looking in on the build. All comments, constructive criticism, advice as to how to improve my work is welcomed! 

 

There are other Phantom builds going on in the Forum. Check them out by searching "Phantom" in the kit section of the build logs.

 

To get to this point in the build took about 7 hours.

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted Gallery

 

Current: Sultana (MSW)

Current: Phantom (MSW)

 

 

 

 

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Edited April 19, 2013 by hopeful

[russ]

David:

Very nice work so far. I will be following along as you build.

 

Russ

[hopeful]

Post 3 of my Phantom Buiild

 

Russ: Thanks for following along. If you see anything amiss please let me know.

 

Photo 11

 

The task was to glue the stem to the keel while keeping the parts flat on a sheet of glass.  The pieces are to their finished size. 1/8" square.  The stem, keel, and stern post are made of soft maple. Those parts take a lot of abuse, so, too keep them sharp I use hard wood.

 

 

Photo 12

 

First the stern post was glued in place. Note I used Timiya and low tack blue tape to keep glue off the hull and the other parts.. I use tape because it is hard to get the glue off without sanding which alters the hull shape. If one cannot get the glue off 100% it it makes for problems when its time to paint.

 

 

Photo 13

 

Stem, keel, and sstern post glued in place.  With solid hulls one can expect to trim and sand some of the hull as it joins the keel, and other parts. I had a bit of carving and light sanding to do in the stem and sternpost areas to achieve a near perfect fit. 

 

 

 

Thanks for looking in on the build. All questions, comments, and constructive criticism, appreciated.

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted Gallery

 

Current: Sultana (MSW)

Current: Phantom (MSW)

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Edited April 16, 2013 by hopeful

[JPett]

Ahoy David

 

You do very nice work. The shape of the hull is beautiful.  

 

Your presentation seems to be very well thought out too, and is appreciated.. Something I work on in my log with limited success. Can I ask what you use for lighting and the camera (settings if any)

[russ]

David:

Very good work on the keel and stem.

 

Russ

[hopeful]

Hi,

Notes to the forum,

Russ: Thank you for your encouragement. As you know I have a challenge keeping things in proper scale. As I move along please let me know when the scale does not look right to you.

JP: Thanks for your positive comments about my work. Truth is I do lots of stuff over until I am satisfied with my work. In fact, after I glued the stem and keel to the hull I noted the stem was slightly out of alignment. Took it off using alcohol to weaken the carpenter’s glue and put the stem back on straight. There are so many fine builders on the forum that one strives to get better, right. I’m still very much a newbie but have great patience. My Sharpie (gallery) was 1/32, my Sultana is 1/64, and the Phantom is 1/96…..I’m going in the wrong direction in terms of scale. Building the other two vessels makes the Phantom far easier that it would be if it was my first build, yikes. When I started building I was going to build the Armed Virginia Sloop. I asked the forum if the AVS made sense as a first. Russ suggested I start with a Midwest kit. I took his wise advice and never looked back.

 

In terms of presentation, am assuming you mean my log, I try to provide a simple photo that would be of help to another builder. I know we all appreciate it when a builder takes the time to share the “how to” aspect of a task using both words and photos. You know what I mean given your last post about planking your Rattlesnake. Good logs take time but it is a way to give back to the forum, that and encouraging others.

As to my photography………I’m an amateur but have always been interested in close-up photography.

JP, your photography is very good.

The camera I use is a Nikon D digital SLR with a Nikkor 12-24mm (shoots as an 18-30 on the Nikon D) wide angle lens. From time to time I also use a Nikkor 50mm macro lens, but not often. One can focus the 12-24 to within 6 inches of an object and accomplish almost total depth of field. The beauty of the Nikon D is this; the lens can be set in the manual/automatic (M/A) mode setting and still be able to use the auto focus feature. The M/A capability is absolutely essential to focus a super wide angel lens at close distances to achieve tack sharp photos.

I set the focal length at infinity, wide open. Like landscape photographers, I always focus the lens pointed at one third the total distance of the object. In example, if the vessel is 24 inches long, I focus in the 8 inch area. And let the infinity setting do its job.
I consider my photos as being sterile or, minimalistic but with purpose.

BTW, on a recent vacation I visited several maritime museums and used my Admirals small handheld digital camera and achieved great results. I do not enjoy using the handheld digital camera in a studio setting, to limited. When shooting photos I always use a tripod.

Lighting….

My lighting set-up uses 100% down lights, no side or front lights. I do not use flash lighting unless the back ground is far away from the object being photographed to avoid casting shadows.

 

Please take a look at the photo showing my lighting set-up in the corner of my shop. The down lights are the aluminum hooded type with a clamp to affix them to almost anything. This type light is most often used by auto mechanics. I use them because I can use the new florescent bulbs, get the ones that cast white light, to cast and focus a great amount of light. My set up uses three of these down lights, but I can use five or six when appropriate.

 

I place the object to be photographed on a piece of white 30” wide paper which comes in a role. The paper role was purchased at an art supply store. I tape the paper to the wall just under a shelf and roll it to the front on the base. I make sure paper has a radius at the back lower edge which helps avoid a line across a photo. You may have noticed a shadow cast behind my photos. The shadow is produced because the down light intensity is broken by the shelf.

Using the method can achieve good results if one is willing to pay attention to just a few simple rules.

 

The photo is a bit out of focus as is was cut from another photo and was up-scaled too large. Think you will be able to get the gist of the set-up.

 

 

Please let me know if you have any questions.

 

BFN

Cheers,
Hopeful aka David

“there is wisdom in many voices”

Completed: Sharpie Schooner (Midwest) Posted to the Gallery

 

Current: Sultana (MSW)

Current: Phantom (MSW)

 

Next: Lady Nelson (Amati Victory)

Edited April 17, 2013 by hopeful

[Blue Ensign]

She has nice lines David, I look forward to seeing her progress..

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[JPett]

Ahoy David

 

Thank you

 

I will try to include some of these tips in my next photo-shoot. As for the logs, I totally agree. Giving is so much better, recieving is nice too (thx).

[hopeful]

Post 4 of my Phantom Build

 

Task was to make a building cradle. 

 

Photo 14

 

Using profile gauge. One can also use the profiles of hull templates if available or, trace the profile from build plan drawings.

 

 

Photo 15

 

Note profile is shown on both the top and bottom of the profile gauge. One can use either profile when transferring the shape to paper of other material.

 

 

Photo 16

 

 

 

Phoro 17

 

 

Ready to cut out the profiles.

 

 

 

Photo 18

 

Cradle with felt added to protect the hull. Felt glued to the profiles with rubber cement. Place cement on profile not on the felt. Then press the felt into place.

 

 

Photo 19

 

 

 

Photo 20

 

Cradle chucked into my 360 degree rotating vise. I have found that a rotating vise is very helpful. One that both rotates and tilts is better yet.

 

 

 

Thanks for looking in on the build. All questions, comments, and constructive criticism is always appreciated.

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

Edited April 20, 2013 by hopeful

[TexasJackTar]

David,

Glad to see another Phantom on the site.  I am a few steps ahead on the build but it looks to be light years behind in skill!  Looking forward to following this one along with the Sultana, which I plan to do next.

 

Regards,

Jack

[hopeful]

Jack,

 

Thanks for looking in. This is my second solid hull model so far, my Sultana is 50% completed.  This one is easier than my first one thus far.

 

Am following your build. You are doing fine. Just take your time and be patient. You know what they say, "haste makes waste".

 

BTW,  I also check out two finished Phantoms. Those by CraigB and SteveM.....have a look when you have time. Its great to have a build(s) to follow, priceless

 

 

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

 

 

 

 

.

Edited April 20, 2013 by hopeful

[JPett]

Ahoy Hopeful

 

Thanks for the tip/practicum on the constuction base. I have this on my list of "upcoming considerations". Or had it.

[Pete38]

Same as always.....Great job.....Clean Crisp lines.......

 

a pleasure to watch your builds

[bgarden]

David your hull couldn't be any better.  Very crisp and clean.  If I didn't know any better, you make building a boat look easy, but since I know from experience how tricky putting together a model ship can be, I must conclude that your skills are first rate.   

 

Does the bear have a name?

 

Brian

[Gerald Spargo]

Congradulations David, your hull has turned out very well. I agree, it is very crisp, and cleanly done. I have been watching your progress, and wil keep following your build log.

[russ]

I agree that the hull looks great. Nice work making the cradles.

 

Russ

[gjdale]

Hi David,

 

That's a very nice start you've made there. Great explanations of your process steps and some really useful photography tips. Thanks for sharing. I shall enjoy following your build.

[Tarjack]

Hello David

here's a little treat for the construction of the phantom.
I built this model in 1985.
Today it stands in the "German Museum of Technology, Berlin"
About this model, I have written a book with the title: Arbeitstechniken für den Schiffsmodellbau.
ISBN 3-88180-704-7

I am pleased to again and again when I see my baby being built.
If you have questions about the construction, I am willing to help.

 

  

 

 

 

 

Until next time

 

 

 

[hopeful]

Hi Bob,

 

Thanks for the Photos of the Pantom. Wonderful build. I am going to add scuppers the way they were were done on your vessel. Looks like you planked the deck, nice.  All the details are very well done. Nice paint, not easy at any scale!!!

 

Thanks again for taking the time to post the build, appreciated.

 

BFN

Hopeful aka David

Edited June 4, 2013 by hopeful

[hopeful]

Hi,

 

Post 5 of my Phantom build.

 

At this point  I added the waterline to determine if my starboard and port hull sides matched after fairing the hull. If good to go, I can continue on with the build If not I need to spend more time faring the hull.

 

The traditional method  to add the waterline is to have the model deck up as in this photo.

 

Photo 21

 

 

 

Photo 22

 

Because the Phantom hull is small (1:96) I decided to pencil the waterline keel up. This allowed me to carefully add the waterline to the rear quater of the vessel with care because I was able to see the hull in that area clearly. 

 

 

After looking at the waterline I noted that I need to do a bit more sanding on the starboard rear quarter where the hull and the sternpost meet , about three minutes work. Now on to the rudder.

 

Thanks for looking in on the build. All questions, comments, and constructive criticism is always appreciated.

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

Edited May 6, 2013 by hopeful

[JPett]

Ahoy David

 

 

 

Very interesting post by Robert.

 

 

 

I am curious, the sanding in the stern, you could see at what point on the hull the line curved that the two sides were not the same. Is this correct?

 

[trippwj]

Looking very good so far, David.  beware the bear, though...rumor has it that Mike Row (of Dirty Jobs fame) is currently holding an eBay auction for, of all things, polar bear poo....

[hopeful]

Answers to the forum,

 

JP: "I am curious, the sanding in the stern, you could see at what point on the hull the line curved that the two sides were not the same. Is this correct?"

 

 I took measurements with my pointers at each section line. Generally when the waterlines of both sides of the vessel meet perfectly at the center of the stem and sternpost your good to go. If not, something is wrong. I could see my problem because the smooth graceful pencil line hit, on further inspection, 120 grit sandpaper scratches which thew the waterline slightly off.  I gently sanded out the scratches and the line smoothed out and met at the center of the sternpost with the other side. It amazes me how the eye detects anomalies. 

 

Wayne: Everyone needs to make a living.

 

BFN

Hopeful aka David

[JPett]

Ahoy David

 

Thanks

 

Be warned "that eye thing is a double edged sword"

Edited April 24, 2013 by JPett

[hopeful]

HI Mates,

 

Just back from a trip. Did a bit of work today after taking care of the lawn work, blah!

 

Post 6 of my Phantom Build Log

 

Photo 23

 

As I am not yet certain how I will display the model  I am drilling 1/16" diameter holes 1/2" deep through the keel and into the hull. To make certain the drill does not wonder when entering the wood I always make a starter hole with an awl. The keel is 1/8" wide. The blue tape is a depth gauge. I use my drill press to drill the holes perfectly straight.

 

 

Photo 24

 

Completed the rudder out of maple. I tend to sand to far on small pieces of wood. The maple slows me down.  Nanoo is always has here nose into everything.

 

 

Thanks for looking at the build. Comments and constructive advice always welcome.

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

Edited May 6, 2013 by hopeful

[russ]

Good point about drilling the holes. No sense taking a chance with the drill running off center. Good work.

 

Russ

[hopeful]

HI,

 

Russ, thanks looking in on the build, much appreciated.

 

Post 7 of my Phantom Build Log.

 

As I will not be using copper plates to copper the hull of my Phantom my next step is to taper the bulwarks from about 1/4" to 1/32" in three steps. The first step for me is to carve and finish sand the bulwarks from the inboard side to a uniform 3/32" all around. 

 

My tools of choice is a set of 4 block cutter gouges from 1/8" to 3/8" wide. The gouges are stainleess steel, 5 inches long, and very, very sharp. These cutters should never be used as levers!  Block cutters are avaiable at good art stores or through the web. I paid under $50 for the set and they will last several life times if properly cared for. The handles are Swiss Pear.

 

Photo 25

 

 

Photo 26

 

Carving the step to make sure it is perfectly square and 3.0mm deep. I pinned a piece of scrap to the deck to use as a guide.

 

 

 Photo 27

 

Final result of step one of my process. At this point the bulwarks are uniformly 3/32 thick and the correct depth per the drawings. I also smoothed the deck at this time making sure not to remove its camber.

 

 

At this point I will go ahead and make the waterways and fit the deck. They will be set aside until later in the build. Now is the safe time to construct and dry fit those pieces since the bulwarks are 3/32" thick and quite strong. making and fitting the parts when the wales are 1/32 is a prescription for disaster.....

 

Thanks for looking in on the build. Comments, questions, and constuctive input always welcome.

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

Edited May 8, 2013 by hopeful