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Allergic Reaction to Super Glue - moved by moderator


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25 replies to this topic

#1
Jack Tar

Jack Tar

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I believe I have encountered a very unpleasent reaction to super glue and was wondering if anyone else has experienced the same.

 

After working with super glue my sinuses will react in such a way as to lead to difficult breathing.  Anyone who suffers from allergic reactions to dust and pollen can relate to this sinus problem.  In fact I do suffer from allergies and take a form of Zertec for it.

 

The reason I believe this is from super glue is because this is the third time this has happened to me during the course of building a model.  I make sure I have plenty of ventilation, but it doesn't seem to matter.  Within four to six hours of working with the super glue I begin to experience the reaction.

 

Anyone else have this problem?

 

I may not be able to continue using super glue for securing rigging, small parts, ect.  As far as securing knots in rigging I've read where some modelers use a thinned white glue.  It takes a little longer, but it seems to work for them.

 


Jack

 

 

Builds:  Bluenose  (Model Shipways 1:100)

 


#2
Billl

Billl

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Yep, join the crowd. Use as little as possible and only when necessary, make sure to have plenty of ventilation. Like the old days, Load up on a variety of rubber-bands, and clamps like clothespins or the new clamps the secretaries use. Those little black ones.


Current Build:

San Francisco / Cross Section, Latina - Wood / 1:50

 

On The Shelf:

San Francisco II, Latina - Wood 1/90,     U.S.S. Constitution, Revell - Plastic  / 1:96 (Remake),     U.S.S. Constitution, Revell - Plastic / 1:196,     H.M.S. Bounty, Latina - Wood / 1:48,

H.M.S. /Mayflower, Latina - Wood / 1:64,     La Nina, Latina - Wood / 1:65,     La Pinta, Latina, Latina - Wood / 1:65,     La Santa Maria, Latina - Wood / 1:65,

Caribbean Pirate Ship, Revell - Plastic / 1:72,     Shrimp Boat, Model Expo - Plastic / 1:60

 

Completed:

Coastal Submarine, Revell - Plastic / 1:144,     Cutty Sark Wall Plaque, Revell - Plastic / 1:50,     H.M.S. Victory, Revell - Plastic / 1:146,     H.M.S. Bounty, Constructo - Wood / 1:50

Oseberg, Billings Boats - Wood / 1:25,     Clipper Ship (Sea Witch), Unknown - Wood / 1:46,     U.S.S. Constitution, Revell - Plastic / 1:96,     Man Of War, Scientific - Wood / 1:50

Robert E. Lee, Scientific - Wood / 1:45,     PT-109, Revell - Plastic / 1:72,     U.S.S. Enterprise, Revell - Plastic / 1:720,     R.M.S. Titanic, Revell - Plastic / 1:720,

Numerous other wooded tall ships and boats from companies named: Ideal, Dumas, Pyro,

 

En Mi Lista De Deseos: -- El Soberano De Los Mares (El Oro Diablo), Mantua - Wood / 1:78


#3
RiverRat

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As far as rigging glue, I've seen GS Hypo Cement by Beadalon suggested a couple places (by Ferit/ashiponthehorizon for one). Can't recall which topic. Said to dry in 15(?) minutes and is flexible, not stiff like CA.

 

Brian


"Give you joy!"

 

Current Build: RATTLESNAKE 1:64 POB (Mamoli)

 

Kits on hand: "Lexington", Mamoli: "Robert E. Lee", Scientific

Scratch to do: "Fannie Dugan", 1870s Sidewheeler Steamboat


#4
avsjerome2003

avsjerome2003

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The solution is obvious. Avoid using CA, and find another alternative.

 

Montani semper liberi  Happy modeling to all and every one of you.

      Crackers    :)



#5
mtaylor

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Jack,

 

There's been some discussion of this problem, among others with CA.  Use it only in a well-ventilated area.  The biggest problem is CA (and the fumes) 'love' water.  You breathe in  the fumes and the CA bonds with the moisture in your sinuses and lungs. 

 

Here's two good discussions of glues:  http://modelshipworl...ergy#entry44000  & http://modelshipworl...ion/?hl=allergy

 

The second one has some specifics to the problem you're having.

 

BTW, some of us learned that water is a great accelerant for CA.  :)


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#6
mathewp

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I was diagnosed with chronic sinusitits late last year, and about two weeks ago had an episode of breathing difficulty. I had no idea super glue could cause problems like this.



#7
Jaxboat

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Cyano acrylates are nasty :( . Unlike other glues we use with the exception of epoxies they don't "dry" they chemically react.Virtually all of the packaging says don't inhale it. 

 

One suggestion, other than switching glues, is to go to a hardware shop and buy a face mask with a canister for adsorbing solvent vapors. I have one I use when I use enamel paints and it works also for me for super glue fumes. People's chemical reactions are different so run a controlled test (short session) to see if it works for you. Water is an accelerant for cyano acrylates which is why they stick your fingers together so quickly ^_^  when you get some on you.

 

Bottom line read labels and take proper safety precautions :) . Go online to the manufactuers website and read their MSDS info (material safety data sheet) if you don't think you have enough info.

Jaxboat



#8
kurtvd19

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I have a small desk fan on a shelf at the back of my workbench set to blow across the workbench and always turn it on when using C/A.  I never get even a whiff of the fumes with the fan running.  I tend to use the fan whenever I am at the workbench as I use halogen lights for good illumination and they are hot.  The fan keeps air moving and I never notice  heat from the lights - if I do it's because I forgot to turn on the fan.  The fan also keeps soldering fumes from being inhaled.

Kurt


Kurt Van Dahm
 
Director/Chairman NRG

www.thenrg.org
Nautical Research & Model Ship Society
Midwest Model Shipwrights
North Shore Deadeyes


#9
Jack Tar

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Brian;  I see where GS Hypo Cement is available from both Amazon and Michael's.  Since we have a Michael's about 3 miles from us I can pop over there tomorrow and pick some up.

 

Jaxboat;  great suggestion with the respirator.  That may be something I should invest in for any number of reasons besides the glue fume issue.

 

Thank you all.


Jack

 

 

Builds:  Bluenose  (Model Shipways 1:100)

 


#10
popeye the sailor

popeye the sailor

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white glue / carpenter's glue can also be used right out of the bottle.  if used sparingly,  it dries right into the rigging and disappears without a trace......almost like our friend here:   :ph34r:


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I yam wot I yam!

 

 

finished builds:

Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann

Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A

M&M Fun Ship - scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build

Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins

Billing's AmericA -reissue

 

on the table:

Billing's Gothenborg 1:100

Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required

Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20

 

other works in progress:

Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood bash

Trawler Syborn - semi scratch

Holiday Harbor multi build - semi scratch


#11
Brian C

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It makes me feel ill after using the stuff, but there is no alternative for a fast grabbing glue. 


Royal William.

H.M.S Royal William     http://modelshipworl...del-by-brian-c/
 
H.M.Y Fubbs scratch built.

    http://modelshipworl...fubbs/?hl=fubbs


Bismarck 1-200-
http://modelshipworl...-amati-brian-c/

#12
Jim Lad

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Brian,

 

How about a fast grabbing clamp and some slow grabbing glue! :)

 

John


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#13
avsjerome2003

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I use CA only when absolutely necessary. My fingers are usually the items glued together with the separation of skin from each finger. Wood glue may not cure as fast, but there is no hassle with odor and body parts sticking together.

 

Montani semper liberi  Happy modeling to all and every one of you.

     Crackers     :pirate41: :dancetl6:



#14
Brian C

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Yes agree with you John.  Titebond wood glue and clamps is the best way to go.


Royal William.

H.M.S Royal William     http://modelshipworl...del-by-brian-c/
 
H.M.Y Fubbs scratch built.

    http://modelshipworl...fubbs/?hl=fubbs


Bismarck 1-200-
http://modelshipworl...-amati-brian-c/

#15
philo426

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If i use it for a prolonged period of time I start to sneeze!I use Franklin Titebond on my wooden ships and that does not cause any problems!


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