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Allergic Reaction to Super Glue - moved by moderator


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25 replies to this topic

#1
Jack Tar

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I believe I have encountered a very unpleasent reaction to super glue and was wondering if anyone else has experienced the same.

 

After working with super glue my sinuses will react in such a way as to lead to difficult breathing.  Anyone who suffers from allergic reactions to dust and pollen can relate to this sinus problem.  In fact I do suffer from allergies and take a form of Zertec for it.

 

The reason I believe this is from super glue is because this is the third time this has happened to me during the course of building a model.  I make sure I have plenty of ventilation, but it doesn't seem to matter.  Within four to six hours of working with the super glue I begin to experience the reaction.

 

Anyone else have this problem?

 

I may not be able to continue using super glue for securing rigging, small parts, ect.  As far as securing knots in rigging I've read where some modelers use a thinned white glue.  It takes a little longer, but it seems to work for them.

 


Jack

 

 

Builds:  Bluenose  (Model Shipways 1:100)

 


#2
Billl

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Yep, join the crowd. Use as little as possible and only when necessary, make sure to have plenty of ventilation. Like the old days, Load up on a variety of rubber-bands, and clamps like clothespins or the new clamps the secretaries use. Those little black ones.


Current Build:

San Francisco / Cross Section, Latina - Wood / 1:50

 

On The Shelf:

San Francisco II, Latina - Wood 1/90,     U.S.S. Constitution, Revell - Plastic  / 1:96 (Remake),     U.S.S. Constitution, Revell - Plastic / 1:196,     H.M.S. Bounty, Latina - Wood / 1:48,

H.M.S. /Mayflower, Latina - Wood / 1:64,     La Nina, Latina - Wood / 1:65,     La Pinta, Latina, Latina - Wood / 1:65,     La Santa Maria, Latina - Wood / 1:65,

Caribbean Pirate Ship, Revell - Plastic / 1:72,     Shrimp Boat, Model Expo - Plastic / 1:60

 

Completed:

Coastal Submarine, Revell - Plastic / 1:144,     Cutty Sark Wall Plaque, Revell - Plastic / 1:50,     H.M.S. Victory, Revell - Plastic / 1:146,     H.M.S. Bounty, Constructo - Wood / 1:50

Oseberg, Billings Boats - Wood / 1:25,     Clipper Ship (Sea Witch), Unknown - Wood / 1:46,     U.S.S. Constitution, Revell - Plastic / 1:96,     Man Of War, Scientific - Wood / 1:50

Robert E. Lee, Scientific - Wood / 1:45,     PT-109, Revell - Plastic / 1:72,     U.S.S. Enterprise, Revell - Plastic / 1:720,     R.M.S. Titanic, Revell - Plastic / 1:720,

Numerous other wooded tall ships and boats from companies named: Ideal, Dumas, Pyro,

 

En Mi Lista De Deseos: -- El Soberano De Los Mares (El Oro Diablo), Mantua - Wood / 1:78


#3
RiverRat

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As far as rigging glue, I've seen GS Hypo Cement by Beadalon suggested a couple places (by Ferit/ashiponthehorizon for one). Can't recall which topic. Said to dry in 15(?) minutes and is flexible, not stiff like CA.

 

Brian


"Give you joy!"

 

Current Build: RATTLESNAKE 1:64 POB (Mamoli)

 

Kits on hand: "Lexington", Mamoli: "Robert E. Lee", Scientific

Scratch to do: "Fannie Dugan", 1870s Sidewheeler Steamboat


#4
avsjerome2003

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The solution is obvious. Avoid using CA, and find another alternative.

 

Montani semper liberi  Happy modeling to all and every one of you.

      Crackers    :)



#5
mtaylor

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Jack,

 

There's been some discussion of this problem, among others with CA.  Use it only in a well-ventilated area.  The biggest problem is CA (and the fumes) 'love' water.  You breathe in  the fumes and the CA bonds with the moisture in your sinuses and lungs. 

 

Here's two good discussions of glues:  http://modelshipworl...ergy#entry44000  & http://modelshipworl...ion/?hl=allergy

 

The second one has some specifics to the problem you're having.

 

BTW, some of us learned that water is a great accelerant for CA.  :)


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#6
mathewp

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I was diagnosed with chronic sinusitits late last year, and about two weeks ago had an episode of breathing difficulty. I had no idea super glue could cause problems like this.



#7
Jaxboat

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Cyano acrylates are nasty :( . Unlike other glues we use with the exception of epoxies they don't "dry" they chemically react.Virtually all of the packaging says don't inhale it. 

 

One suggestion, other than switching glues, is to go to a hardware shop and buy a face mask with a canister for adsorbing solvent vapors. I have one I use when I use enamel paints and it works also for me for super glue fumes. People's chemical reactions are different so run a controlled test (short session) to see if it works for you. Water is an accelerant for cyano acrylates which is why they stick your fingers together so quickly ^_^  when you get some on you.

 

Bottom line read labels and take proper safety precautions :) . Go online to the manufactuers website and read their MSDS info (material safety data sheet) if you don't think you have enough info.

Jaxboat



#8
kurtvd19

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I have a small desk fan on a shelf at the back of my workbench set to blow across the workbench and always turn it on when using C/A.  I never get even a whiff of the fumes with the fan running.  I tend to use the fan whenever I am at the workbench as I use halogen lights for good illumination and they are hot.  The fan keeps air moving and I never notice  heat from the lights - if I do it's because I forgot to turn on the fan.  The fan also keeps soldering fumes from being inhaled.

Kurt


Kurt Van Dahm

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NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

 

CLUBS
Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago
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#9
Jack Tar

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Brian;  I see where GS Hypo Cement is available from both Amazon and Michael's.  Since we have a Michael's about 3 miles from us I can pop over there tomorrow and pick some up.

 

Jaxboat;  great suggestion with the respirator.  That may be something I should invest in for any number of reasons besides the glue fume issue.

 

Thank you all.


Jack

 

 

Builds:  Bluenose  (Model Shipways 1:100)

 


#10
popeye the sailor

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white glue / carpenter's glue can also be used right out of the bottle.  if used sparingly,  it dries right into the rigging and disappears without a trace......almost like our friend here:   :ph34r:


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I yam wot I yam!


finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed / semi scratch dual build
Billing's AmericA -reissue

Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch using Billing's instructions

on the table:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch
Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

Academy Titanic 1:400


#11
Brian the extraordinaire

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It makes me feel ill after using the stuff, but there is no alternative for a fast grabbing glue. 



#12
Jim Lad

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Brian,

 

How about a fast grabbing clamp and some slow grabbing glue! :)

 

John


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#13
avsjerome2003

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I use CA only when absolutely necessary. My fingers are usually the items glued together with the separation of skin from each finger. Wood glue may not cure as fast, but there is no hassle with odor and body parts sticking together.

 

Montani semper liberi  Happy modeling to all and every one of you.

     Crackers     :pirate41: :dancetl6:



#14
Brian the extraordinaire

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Yes agree with you John.  Titebond wood glue and clamps is the best way to go.



#15
philo426

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If i use it for a prolonged period of time I start to sneeze!I use Franklin Titebond on my wooden ships and that does not cause any problems!


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#16
twintrow

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Jack (and others).   I went to a large box store sports outlet and picked up some "fly head" glue.

As it sounds it is used in making flies for fishing and gluing the seizing of the head to the hook.

I understand it is hypoallergenic, Has little or no odor and sets fairly quickly.  And remains flexible.

 

there are other such adhesive out there, some in hobby/craft centers in the beading area.

 

No use using CA if it affects you in any way.


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#17
Jack Tar

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Boy!  I tell you what!  I'm ready to try anything to get away from CA!

 

This last reaction has now gone on for two days.  I'm just now beginning to breath through my nostrils again.  My wife was ready to take me to hospital, she was that concerned about my breathing.  It is subsiding, but slowly.

 

Since both Hydro Cement and Fly Head Cement are available through Amazon I'm going to order a tube of both and see which one is best for my application.


Jack

 

 

Builds:  Bluenose  (Model Shipways 1:100)

 


#18
edbardet

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I've found that I can speed up the 'initial hold' on Titebond by applying the glue, match the pieces and touch together to spread the glue, then seperate the pieces for a short period of time and re-attach. It seems that the initial hold is much sturdier that way.

Ed



#19
Shaz

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Jack, I feel your pain. I have been there as well, took almost an entire week for the last of the miserable symptoms to subside, but the first 48 hours were the worst!  I have not invested in a paint respirator, but I have limited the use of my CA to just a couple of instances that I can't seem to avoid it. I now use the fan to blow the fumes away from me, plus I keep my face away from the fresh wet glue. If I know I am going to be using it for more than just a minute or two, I have taken the parts outdoors and stayed up wind of the fumes while applying the needed fix.  I know once that first sneeze comes on, I am pretty much screwed and am already in the beginning of a reaction to the nasty stuff.

I really need to get on Amazon and order this other stuff, sounds like it will make life less painful.


Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 


#20
lamarvalley

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I rarely use the stuff, maybe 1% of my gluing is CA, as I would rather use wood glue and a clamp any day but when I must use it I basically work quick and avoid breathing the fumes... fans, work outdoors etc. I haven't had the same kind of reaction as you but more of a momentary breathlessness... still an uncomfortable time and an indicator of something ain't right here :huh: .
I used some on rigging line knots (I've since ripped them out and started that over... for many reasons) but I now use a flat lacquer that dries on the knot and becomes fairly invisible. Stays more flexible too.
The stuff is effective but not worth the risk if you're allergic and there are alternatives.

Randy
 
 
 
 
 
Current Build:  Marina II from AL

 

Future Build: Le Superbe from Mantua

 

Finished build:  San Francisco II from AL





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