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Maine three masted schooner by Bedford - Radio - 1:54


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Well I figure it is about time I start a new build and post up a thread. This will take a while so be very patient.

I love tall ships, I love tall ship models and I love scratch building working models. Hence this project.

I aquired a fairly rudementary set of hull plans a few years ago and am now in a postition to put my money where my mouth is and build it.

The aim is a fully operational schooner done my way. It will be what aeromodellers used to call stand-off scale because I am making consessions to my lack of knowledge about the forces that will be applied to her under sail as well as the fact that the plans include nothing of the rigging and precious little detail of the deck fittings.

I know how to rig a ship because I have done a few kits, two schooners among them.

I have never sailed anything in my life so she will be made in the guise of a replica or restored ship which has had engines added, ie she will have twin screws like the replica Endeavour. She will never be becalmed.

Stats:-
Hull length - 1045mm
Beam - 210mm
Mast height - 930mm from keel
Sails - Cotton (at this stage- open to suggestion) 3x sails, 3x top sails, 3x stay sails.
Construction - Marine ply keel and ribs, plank on frame, fibre-glassed.

I have started in an unusual way in so much as I have made the masts first. I was going to make one to test the principles but decided that it was going to be much more expedient to machine multiple parts in one hit than do three seperate set-ups.

The first pic shows the style of schooner rig I am aiming for.

post-697-0-78663100-1382758205.jpg

Squaring the top of the masts

post-697-0-26038400-1382757936_thumb.jpg
post-697-0-62961600-1382757967_thumb.jpg

It is nice to be able to use full sized tools on a model for a change

post-697-0-20962000-1382758006_thumb.jpg

Cross tree or tressle, the timbers are a bit heavier than scale and not tapered to the outer extremeties but they are what the top mast shroud lines will attach to so they are deliberately heavy for structural reasons.

post-697-0-64192300-1382758048_thumb.jpg
post-697-0-55639300-1382758075_thumb.jpg

Machining the mast tops, all three at once.

post-697-0-77673800-1382758116_thumb.jpg

Edited by Bedford
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I sincerely hope I fail to disappoint but this is my first attempt at such a thing. I like to work all the mechanics and problems out my way but will always welcome suggestions.

 

The masts and tressles are made of Tasmanian Oak which is readily available here and quite strong.

 

More pics, that is a 12 inch rule behind the mizzen mast.

 

post-697-0-89064100-1382771095_thumb.jpg

post-697-0-95529800-1382771130_thumb.jpg

post-697-0-78982400-1382771161_thumb.jpg

Edited by Bedford
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oh,  I see.......kind of like,   build the masts,  and the rest will come. ;)    sounds like a very interesting build........and big!   hope you don't mind my tagg'in along  :)

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Aye Popeye, big she is!

 

If I am clever the top masts and bow sprit jib boom will all retract far enough to fit her in one of my cars. Be a bugger if they don't retract enough !

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Well, this is certainly a pleasant surprise.  Big schooners have always been one of my favorites.  And an R/C project brings added challenges.

 

If there's still room, I'll pull up a chair.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Jim Lad, She should stand in the back of this one, I will have to lay her over a little to get her in.

 

post-697-0-38777700-1382830255_thumb.jpg

 

Failing that if I take the back seat out, which is dead easy, she will fit fully rigged in there.

I have another large 4 door sedan with a fold down rear seat too so if I make a suitable cradle it would lie in the boot of that.

 

He said, hopefully!

 

Steve

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Well, this is certainly a pleasant surprise.  Big schooners have always been one of my favorites.  And an R/C project brings added challenges.

 

If there's still room, I'll pull up a chair.

Yeah I love them and hopefully she will look good under sail. She has great classic lines too.

I made Thermopylae years ago and still have the plans, I want to make that in this size and r/c her but that is a major task running all that rigging via r/c and learning to sail her so I thought a classic schooner first.

 

This project might put me right off the Thermopylae idea too, you never know, but I do enjoy a mechanical challenge.

Edited by Bedford
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 I do enjoy a mechanical challenge.

 

Me too, so this should be fun.

 

Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

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Hello Bedford I will be following along too, I rather like big models as well.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Most of the R/C sailboats I have seen are designed so that the Masts can be easily stepped and unstepped to make it easy to transport. I look forward to your build.

Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren

Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18

On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, 

 

Its a sailor's Life for me! :10_1_10:

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Welcome aboard guys, hope you brought your esky because it is going to take some time !

 

Steve

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Now you've gone and spoiled my fun, I imagined all kinds of folks sitting at their computers scratching their heads and eventually googling "esky" :D

 

As for sailing her, we have a beautiful lake just out of town called Lake Canobolas, no power boats and not so big it gets a chop going under normal conditions. It is generally fairly calm. Even a 50mm wave will represent a 2.7mtr swell so I think the lake should be good. I might want to find somewhere less populated to learn to sail her though because I don't want to show up with a beautiful big schooner and look like a novice.

 

Steve

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Well what a week, I feel like Shaz, always something else going on. Back and forward to Sydney with dad in and out of hospital, all well now hopefully.

 

Time to start the hull so I marked out and cut card templates and have started cutting the ply.

 

post-697-0-21754500-1383736633_thumb.jpg

 

I started cutting with a fret saw but it didn't take long to realise that not only was it going to take forever but it wasn't going to be accurate enough. struggling to hold the piece with one hand and saw with the other isn't the best way so I bit the bullet and bought another tool for my workshop....

 

post-697-0-50872500-1383736674_thumb.jpg

 

Three ribs cut but I will cut all the centres out in one go when I have them all cut to the ouside profile because the saw blade needs to be dismounted and fed through a drilled hole before re-mounting to cut out the centres.

 

post-697-0-36111800-1383736809_thumb.jpg

 

The keel..............that is long !!!

 

post-697-0-89825900-1383736881_thumb.jpg

 

 

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very nice start.......the hull frame is going to look really good!   I have an older Craftsman model scroll saw........one of these days maybe,  I'll trade up to a newer one.   glad to see your moving forward with the hull........can't wait to see it together.

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Sorry to hear about life getting in the way.  My thoughts are with your father.

 

I have a nice SUV with a flatter roof line that you might find useful for a car top ship carrier.  She's going to be BIG!

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Steve, impressive, and I am not sure even that is the proper word given the size and scope of this build. Wow, I want to do a great big one...maybe then my fingers wont be so darn clumsy around all the fiddly little pieces. I really like the lines of the schooner, I had never really looked at them before, but I think I might have to consider one after the Syren nears completion. Yep, we both know about life and all, sometimes 24 hours in a day is nowhere near enough and you start to feel like you are drowning in responsibility and things left undone or unfinished. I have taken peeps advice from here and just stepped back from the building and focused on the "real" things. It did help to be reminded that this is a hobby to do at my own pace and leisure, not a job. Glad someone slapped me in the face with that, it allowed me to put my focus on real-world issues, get them out of the way, and then come back to the building table with a clear head and a new focus. Makes all the difference in the world. I hope things with your dad settle down. Looking forward to following this build!

Robbyn

If you risk nothing, you risk everything!

 

Current builds

Syren (Model Shipways) version 2.0

AL San Francisco II

Mordaunt (Euro Model)

Completed Builds

18th Century Longboat designed by Chuck Passaro
 

In the closet

Battle Station

Al Charles Morgan (1980s version)

 

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Augie, none have a flatter roof than my Land Rover, trouble is it is just over 2metres tall so I would end up with a rig over 3 metres tall :D

She will fit inside one way or another.

 

Robbyn, correct me if I am wrong but didn't I once read that you were an english professor? Surely you of all people can come up with an adequate superlative for such a build :D Seriously though, she is a big project and I am looking forward to having bigger bits to work with. As for you making a schooner I don't think I have seen many in kit form so good luck. They are much easier and quicker to rig  than square rigged vessels due to the small number of sails and corresponding timberwork to control.

 

Steve

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Sure do like that red boat stand.

 

Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

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Yeah Bob, I figure it lends sharp relief to the hull........... :cheers:

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I may be accused of getting ahead of myself but I have bought some hardware, some from a very good model ship supplier in Australia I have dealt with many times and the balance, because the Aus one doesn't do R/C, from England.

 

First a couple of motors with reduction gearboxes, on reflection I may only need one of these and a gearbox with contra-rotating outputs to drive both props but we shall see when she is at the stage I can float her in the bath and test her.

 

post-697-0-06811200-1383805161_thumb.jpg

 

Two prop shafts with brackets to stand off the hull, too hard to explain adequately so watch and see. They claim to have water proof seals, again, we shall see.

 

post-697-0-63860900-1383805194_thumb.jpg

 

Two props, 1 left hand and 1 right hand. Good scale size but may be too small in service but I will see when she floats.

 

post-697-0-30256100-1383805221_thumb.jpg

 

Two anchors, they are the right size but have wooden stocks which might be incorrect for the period. I could not find a decent looking pair with metal stock and balls though.

 

post-697-0-38308900-1383805246_thumb.jpg

 

The single most important part of this build............an automatic bilge pump!

Very cheap insurance and it comes with a light that you can mount outside the ship so you know when it is working. Assuming you only sail at night ! It is so dull I would never see it in the Australian sun but my son had a brilliant idea. Ditch the bulb and use the signal to drive a small auxilliary winch motor to raise a flag, I'm thinking a distress flag !

Once the flag is seen the order will be given "All ahead full and make for the nearest landfall"

 

post-697-0-39703500-1383805278_thumb.jpg

 

Steve

 

 

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Yeah I might have to make some like Jeronimo did.

 

Steve

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Nice hardware !  Good luck on the waterproof shafts.  That bilge pump is a great idea light or no.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Glad to see that you have begun the hull I will be watching with great interest how you build it and all the radio stuff.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Right, my first request for input.

 

We all know what the inside is going to look like, a keel down the middle and ribs spaced along it, when planked there will be a void between each rib either side of the keel which I will need to be able to drain bilge water from.

 

If I drill holes in each rib to allow flow I then have to go to great lengths to make sure they are sealed completely to stop water getting into the ply and it will weaken the structure, if they are right at the bottom to allow all water to drain out then there will be nothing solid for the bottom planks to attach to.

 

I am thinking of sealing the interior with epoxy then using some sort of pourable silicone if one is available.

 

The idea is to lay her to one side and pour silicone into each void on the low side and when set repeat for the other side. This should give me a gentle "V" in the bottom so water will be easy to collect and pump out, also being silicone it will seal extra well and a little water left behind will dry out naturally with hatches open and not do any harm.

 

Does that sound feasable and does anyone know of such a product, I think I have seen it for use in making moulds.

 

Thanks

Steve

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Steve - I am sorry I can't help with the silicone. I don't have any experience with that. But I can tell you from my experience with R/C sailing that you do want to seal everything with Epoxy. Out club often takes the sheet of ply and gives it a layer or 2 of West Systems Epoxy before beginning the build. For the first layer use a scraper to lay on a thin coat and then sand it off. Your goal is to waterproof the wood. When you add the second layer use a finer sandpaper for the finish coat. I do this to both sides of the ply. Having said all of the above I have had very little trouble with water inside. I have not found the need to drain it.

Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren

Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18

On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, 

 

Its a sailor's Life for me! :10_1_10:

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PROGRESS !!

 

After two days of cutting, sanding and filing.........................

 

I took this pic on the bonnet of my Land Rover to give a good idea of size

 

post-697-0-37865700-1383984786_thumb.jpg

 

post-697-0-16860100-1383984836_thumb.jpg

 

post-697-0-90850500-1383984867_thumb.jpg

 

The ribs are not completely set yet, there is still a little fine tuning to be done to get them into exactly the right position but I thought it worthy of a few pics and a post.

 

post-697-0-74669800-1383984894_thumb.jpg

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