mtaylor

Planking Tutorials

35 posts in this topic

If you're having questions about planking, a good place to start is here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php

 

In addition to the tutorial by David Antscherl, there's also several others including "how to's" on planking bluff bows, the Simplified Planking for Beginners and also one from Chuck Passaro.

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Thanks Mark and Chuck for reminding me to do my research on deck planking before I attempt it on my Cross Section. Quickly glanced at them for now. They look very informative and I will make a point of reading them first. 

Jgrace likes this

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I've been bashing the CalderCraft 1/72 scale HMS Victory after making my first pass at the lower gun deck planking using the kit supplied tanganika strips.  I was not pleased and ripped it all out.  As a result, I have a new found respect for Super Glue, but I digress.  I went out and purchased some Holly stock, and sawed my own planking to the correct scale.  WOW!  What a difference the right materials make. I am inspired and tickled to death.  I haven't figured out yet how to get my butt plugs to scale.  A #80 bit is still a bit too large at 1/72 scale (planks are scaled for 9 inch width so my plugs shouldn't go over an inch max).  I thought about using a straight pin to make an impression and then scrape dark paste wax into the depression.  However, I worry that might not give me a uniform appearance.  Thought about drawing trunnels, but trying to get bamboo smaller than a #60 bit isn't working too well.  Any ideas are most appreciated.

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Edited by mlschlot
gregkthompson likes this

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Looks like I found this one just in time since I see this subject coming up very soon....Thanks Chuck, greatly appreciated.

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Treenails are, shall we say, a bit of much discussion.  On the real thing, the holes were drilled, the treenails set and then a plug of the same wood as the deck was put in to cover the treenail.  For the most part, they're pretty darn invisible.  BUT..  we modelers like to show them off. 

 

You could use a very sharp #2 pencil for the impression of a treenail by doing it just before putting on the finish.  The pin and colored filler seems popular.  Or use the #80 drill and draw some treenails down to that size.  Some also use a hyperdermic needle to leave the impression of the plug.

 

The final alternative is just to not do treenails since anything smaller than 1:64 is pretty darn small.

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Doc,

My experience with "old" dental burrs is not that good.  They are worn from working on enamel and do not cut very well, even in wood, when compared to new ones.  For what my dentist charges, I did not feel guilty in the least when he offered a handful of brand new burrs after I politely declined used ones. 

 

In addition, with more than one coarseness available in carving burrs, one can work fast and rough, then follow up with finishing before going to sandpaper and Scotchpads. 

 

Allan

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Ok guys question I know the importance of planking both sides evenly as far as one side then the next then back again one plank at a time The question is on the second layer of planking does that have to be followed or can one side be completed then the other since it isn't a structure issue but more of a veneer

S.Coleman likes this

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You are right, it isn't a structural issue. However, if you shape your planks in pairs ( port and starboard) you will be much more likely to achieve a result which looks symmetrical and even - especially at the bow.

NMBROOK likes this

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Mark, if you are monitoring this thread, I am looking for a link that used to work (because I downloaded a paper copy several months ago, but would like to refer it to someone) - which I believe you posted on some other thread (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/353-planking-instructiontutorial-by-jack-nastyface/) - but it doesn't seem to work anymore. The article was called "planking a hull - a tutorial", by Keith Harris (jack nastyface). Searching the site doesn't seem to get me any further. I found it to be an excellent article on spiling. Apologies if I am overlooking something.

Ian

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Hmm.. good question Ian.  Maybe one of the moderators can provide some input on this.    I don't see it either nor do I have a copy.  

Canute likes this

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Thanks both. Paul, it looks like a paid membership is the only way to download the document although it seems it can be readily reviewed online and Tony I am not sure where the article is buried in the rest. In either case as I had mentioned, I printed the article when it was available with NRG. I suppose it must be a copyrighted article now. Nevertheless both links are valuable references.

Ian

Canute and mtaylor like this

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Mark, if you are monitoring this thread, I am looking for a link that used to work (because I downloaded a paper copy several months ago, but would like to refer it to someone) - which I believe you posted on some other thread (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/353-planking-instructiontutorial-by-jack-nastyface/) - but it doesn't seem to work anymore. The article was called "planking a hull - a tutorial", by Keith Harris (jack nastyface). Searching the site doesn't seem to get me any further. I found it to be an excellent article on spiling. Apologies if I am overlooking something.

Ian

 

I have reposted the tutorial at the following link on MSW:

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12119-planking-tutorial-by-jack-nastyface/?p=367116

 

It was created in partnership with Keith, and used by permission.

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I am looking for recommendations for completing my planking process. I have planked the hull of my Niagra (successfully, whew, first POB), and I have been sanding for a smooth finished surface. But, there still remain small cracks between planks in many places, usually caused by the slight irregularities in the manufacture of the wood. I plan to paint the hull, but I need to seal these first. I have tried diluted DAP Plastic Wood, but it is to coarse to do a good job. 

What do the experts recommend for this job. There must be some simple way, some commonly available wood filler which works best on cracks. So, how do I best repair gaps in seams?

Thanks in advance...

Edited by milosmail
thibaultron, Canute and mtaylor like this

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I am no expert but, what works for me is a product by 3M "wood filler". I got it at Lowes home improvement. It is sandable and stainable. It comes in different sizes. I would recomend the larger size because the smaller size only has 1.3oz. and the next size up has 4.0oz, (over 3 times as much as the small size) for about twice as much price.

 

Link:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-Wood-Filler-Stainable/999926292

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Russ

 

 

donfarr, Canute, mtaylor and 2 others like this

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Since you are planning on painting the hull you have several options.  You can use an epoxy crack filler (like Bondo).  You can use a wood filler.  I have never used DAP but have had good luck with the Elmer's product line.  It is going to be coarser than wood unless you keep using finer sandpaper to smooth it over.  Typically I will sand down to 400 grit.  Finally, you can make a paste of sawdust and dilute white glue and use it like Spackle to fill in the cracks.

 

For your next model consider slightly tapering the plank edge to compensate for the convexity of the hull.  That elimates a lot of those unsightly gaps.  As they say...been there, done that.

donrobinson, druxey, Canute and 4 others like this

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