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21ft English Pinnace by Mike Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24


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135 replies to this topic

#1
Mike Y

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First of all, thanks to Chuck for designing that amazing kit.
It's really a pleasure to build, everything is so well thought through! Especially after AL kit, not so well designed and with idiotic instructions :)
If you care not only about the result, but a relaxing process - then buy that kit, you would not regret.

The kit content quite standard - manual, laser cut details, various basswood strips for planking:
Photo 2013-12-13 07 56 25.jpg

End result should look as close to this teaser as possible:
Photo 2014-01-02 22 37 29.jpg

What's in between? Let's look in the manual:

No, really not, the manual is the best I ever saw, you can take a look here: https://dl.dropboxus...nstructions.pdf

I do not plan to make any interesting adjustments to the build, but will try to build it as accurate as I can.
So maybe it would be interesting to beginners, nothing more.
Would appreciate any kind of feedback and advices from a more experienced builders!


Edited by Chuck, 17 April 2014 - 02:32 PM.

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#2
Mike Y

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First of all, such nice boat requires a solid, but light dock. I don't have a dedicated space for modelling, so I share the table with my kid, and need to quickly rollout all my stuff and then hide it back:

Photo 2014-01-01 20 56 29.jpg

 

Tapered the false keel, and also a bit tapered the real keel (just for a sake of beauty):

Photo 2014-01-02 19 02 29.jpg

 

Photo 2014-01-02 19 18 38.jpg


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#3
Mike Y

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Made a simple, but practical tool that helps to align frames properly. Lego allows you to build some small helping constructions that are quite strong, parallel and easy to modify on a fly.

Photo 2014-01-02 21 34 54.jpg

 

This is the dry fitting phase, so don't mind that frames are not aligned yet. I align one frame, glue it, then go to the next one.

Photo 2014-01-02 21 35 09.jpg

 

It's also easy to control the horizontal alignment:

Photo 2014-01-02 21 59 53.jpg

 

And the perpendicularity to the keel:

Photo 2014-01-02 22 00 03.jpg

 

The lego frame slides tightly along the building construction.

 

Result of a first evening (nevermind the bush cricket on a background, as I said I share that table :) ):

Photo 2014-01-02 22 39 44.jpg


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#4
Chuck

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Looks fantastic....Dont forget to check out these photos of the pinnace in the NMM museum.  This is the pinnace I based the kit on for teh most part.  

 

http://modelshipworl...287-london-517/

 

You will notice a few changes or omissions that I made to keep the kit more simplified.   If you have any questions at all please let me know.

 

Chuck


Chuck Passaro - MSW Admin 

 

Current build - HMS Winchelsea - POB scratch build

                            HM Cutter Cheerful - POB scratch build

       Royal Barge - POF scratch

 

www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com

 


#5
Mike Y

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Your "simplified" variant is much more elegant then the "original" one!

Colors are brighter, and that weird transom on original boat that looks like it should fall off if you accidentally step on it :)

 

Weird question, but did you ever considered designing a beginner-level models, like for kids? Something that you can use to introduce a 10yr old kid to modelling, but instead of using a cheap chinese crap - you pay twice more, but get a well thought through kit, that is a pleasure to build? 



#6
Chuck

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Thanks for the kind words.

 

I actually have thought about it...but its one of those ...where do I find the time.......things.   I am sure I will get around to it at some point.

 

Chuck


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Chuck Passaro - MSW Admin 

 

Current build - HMS Winchelsea - POB scratch build

                            HM Cutter Cheerful - POB scratch build

       Royal Barge - POF scratch

 

www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com

 


#7
Mike Y

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Started a planking, found a problem.
The first frame (K) looks mounted too high. The top plank do not follow a smooth curve. On a drawings there is no sign of a higher front frame, so I thought that I did not inserted it on a full length while glueing.
But then I checked the photos in a manual, page 5 (top and left photos), and they also show the front frame mounted higher then next frames.
If you draw a plank line on a sticky tape, front frame creates an ugly step:
image.jpg

If I want a plank to make a smooth curve - then top frame pokes a bit and should be shortened. Not a big deal, I do not think it would be bad for the hull, but want to doublecheck before cutting.
image.jpg

Chuck, I would appreciate your advice, what is a better option? Or am I really made a serious mistakes and glued the front frame higher then it should be?
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#8
Chuck

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That looks great.    Yes the top frame pops up a bit.   Your planking run looks real good.  Proceed as shown in those photos.

 

Chuck


Chuck Passaro - MSW Admin 

 

Current build - HMS Winchelsea - POB scratch build

                            HM Cutter Cheerful - POB scratch build

       Royal Barge - POF scratch

 

www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com

 


#9
Mike Y

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Aha! Ok, will relax and cut off the poking pieces of top frame after planking :)
Thanks for a quick reply!

#10
Mike Y

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It was trickier then expected :)

If you just put the top plank into the bow "slot", then it's just going vertical, without following the hull shape:

Photo 2014-01-04 22 53 19.jpg

 

Photo 2014-01-04 22 55 00.jpg

 

 

To make planks follow the shape of the hull, I lifted to top plank a bit higher on the bow, and tapered the second plank.

In hindsight it's pretty obvious, no matter how you bend the planks, they should be tapered. But I was too much following the instructions, and surprised that it was not mentioned there (or I was not reading carefully?)

 

So that's how the bow looks like when second plank tapered and first plank lifted higher (it's just halfway inserted into the bow slot):

Photo 2014-01-05 22 28 18.jpg

 

Photo 2014-01-05 22 29 00.jpg

 

The second plank was also a bit tapered on the stern:

Photo 2014-01-05 22 27 57.jpg


Edited by Mike Y, 06 January 2014 - 08:35 AM.

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#11
Mike Y

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Don't mind a bit dirty hull, I will remove the glue traces and sand the hull later, when it would be completed.

 

Also, thanks BobF for a nice way of making a plank bending templates - attach the sticky tape to the previous plank, paint the pencil line like you are simulating the caulking, bend the plank according to that template:

Photo 2014-01-04 19 25 44.jpg

 

Photo 2014-01-04 19 33 02.jpg


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#12
Mike Y

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In a meanwhile, added a third planking level and made a base for a slipway-style model stand. It would be painted black and I will add some diagonal supports for the boat when the planking would be completed.

Still not sure how that stand will look in reality, so maybe there would be a second iteration.

Photo 2014-01-08 21 37 55.jpg


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#13
Mike Y

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Now I dry fit soaked planks using a paper clips, they dry overnight, and next evening I glue them. One pair of planks per day, but turned out to be easier then bending and drying!

image.jpg

Dont forget to put some scrapmpieces between the clip and the plank, otherwise it will leave an ugly traces. Soaked basswood is much softer then I thought :)

Edited by Mike Y, 11 January 2014 - 11:13 PM.

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#14
Mike Y

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Slowly moving, not sanding the hull yet (sonce planks are really small), so sorry for bad surface and glue stains.
One side looks ok, while other side is too much bent. Was always trying to keep the hull symmetrical, but failed. Probably its not fixable, except replanking from the scratch. Any kind of stealer plank would be too visible. But now I gained a lot of experience how to plank it. Maybe strip it totally, remove all planks and plank with boxwood, because now I know how? :)

Good side:
Photo 2014-01-13 21 57 53.jpg

Bad side:
Photo 2014-01-13 21 58 21.jpg


Edited by Mike Y, 14 April 2014 - 08:09 AM.

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#15
Mike Y

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Installed gardboard planks. That was quite easy, but more time-consuming then regular planks.

Result on a "good" side:
Photo 2014-01-19 22 06 04.jpg
Gap for remaining planks is quite consistent, looks ok.

And here is the other, "bad" side. Planks are overtapered on this side.
Photo 2014-01-19 22 06 30.jpg
The gap is widening closer to the front part of the hull.
Will try to slowly fill it by a weirdly shaped remaining planks, let's see if it is fixable, or I will need to tear down the whole side of the ship and re-plank.


Edited by Mike Y, 14 April 2014 - 08:10 AM.

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#16
Chuck

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That looks very good.  Well done.

 

Chuck


Chuck Passaro - MSW Admin 

 

Current build - HMS Winchelsea - POB scratch build

                            HM Cutter Cheerful - POB scratch build

       Royal Barge - POF scratch

 

www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com

 


#17
Mike Y

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Thanks, Chuck! Really looking forward for a hull "birth", when it would be sanded and frame fillers removed :)

#18
Mike Y

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Installing final planks. Gaps for remaining plank have a bit different width, so on one side I will have two thin planks based on regular strips, and one other side - one plank made from a wider strip.
Shaped that strip, bit after soaking it obviously become larger and do not fit into the gap anymore. Another illustration why one shoild never glue soaked planks :
image.jpg


Edited by Mike Y, 14 April 2014 - 08:11 AM.

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#19
Mike Y

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Yahoo! Finished the hull planking!
Looks ugly before sanding:
image.jpg

image.jpg
(Yes, wood is of different color, no more basswood!)

But much better after sanding:
image.jpg

image.jpg

Final sanding would be done after a treenails imitation. Planks are quite thin, dont want to sand them too much :)

Now it really feels like a boat! :)
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#20
BRiddoch

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Mike,

     I am following your build closely as this model is next in line for me.  Quick observation, after looking at the instructions, I was under the impression that the top 2 planks were to extend beyond the transom.

 

                       Bob R.


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